L3430 Run With No Oil

[claybreaker 144]

This summer my wife was bush hogging the neighbors field and one of the engine oil drain plugs fell out our 3430. The tractor was run until it stalled, restarted and traveled a short distance stalled again. I was called to the tractor, started it and shut it down immediately sensing the issue. We followed the oil path (at least 1000 feet) and found the drain plug. Replaced the plug added new oil and the tractor started right up. I changed the oil and filter, that was 60 hours ago. Tractor has a more noticeable clack to it and I see a slight blue tint in the exhaust once in a while but other than that it hasn't faltered with tilling, bushhogging and loader work. I have some time to put into this now that I am retired and started by performing a compression check and all cylinders hit 400 lbs with 4 puffs and topped out at 480-470 after 14 puffs. This looks to be within specification tolerance of min 370 lbs and 10% between cylinders.
I don't know whether to leave well enough alone or start to look at the lower end. The tractor has 1565 hrs on it, I have no plans to get ride of it. I've rebuild a few gas motors and a couple of 6.2 GM diesels and IH 6.0 so I'm sure I can do a good job if I tackle a complete overhaul. Any opinions on what will happen with this down the road if I don't do anything? Can the crank and rod bearing be replaced by dropping the oil pan? Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Any opinions on what will happen with this down the road if I don't do anything? Can the crank and rod bearing be replaced by dropping the oil pan? Thanks

Very possibly will toss a rod, or burn up a damaged bearing or even scar the crank beyond repair.

You have to pull the motor and the crank comes out the back.

 

[eserv]

You can either repair it now while it likely is mostly salvageable or wait until it flies apart and buy a new engine! Just remember, they never fail when you don't need them! If it were mine I would push it into the shop and fix it right away!

 

[200mph]

I'd bite the bullet and rebuild it while parts may be salvageable or perhaps investigate the cost of a new engine from Kubota and have it in reserve.

 

[Roadworthy]

If you have the time and availability of decent shop space a proper bottom end overhaul will probably be your least expensive alternative - unless a new engine is far less expensive than I expect.

 

[D2Cat]

I have a friend who farms and feed about 60 head of cattle. His feeding tractor is a Zetor, about 75 HP. About 10 years ago he overheated it. He had just changed the oil, but he has been always very laxed on any maintenance. He said his oil pressure light was on, so he was going to trade it in.

Whatever the oil volume was, he drained some out and added a gallon of Lucas oil supplement. Soon the light quit coming on, and he never traded it it. He's still using it feeding cattle every day in the winter, and haying in the summer. Still does not do much for any maintenance, but that thing is still going just fine. Looks like a beat up wreck with the hood off, and the loader bucket has a big smile. He always parks it with the loader 4' in the air.

Sometimes it's difficult to destroy a tractor. YMMV

 

[200mph]

At one point Kubota had the prices in the wholegoods price sheet, but about 5 years ago they shifted the engines from Wholegoods to part.

Did a quick search and found this.
https://countrysalesandservice.com/kubota-d1703er-kubota-tractorl-l3300-l3410-l3400-l3430/

 

[SidecarFlip]

I may take some flak over this comment but if I were you, before I did anything else, I'd warm the engine to operating temp and pull an oil sample and send it off to Blackstone and get an oil analysis. Then you will know for certain if the bearings or internal parts are damaged because it will show up[ on the analysis report and it only costs 20 bucks.

20 bucks is a lot less than a rebuilt engine or even new internal parts especially if you don't know what is damaged and what isn't.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If you have the time and availability of decent shop space a proper bottom end overhaul will probably be your least expensive alternative - unless a new engine is far less expensive than I expect.

5100 for an engine for my M9000 on the site 200MPH posted. Not bad really.

 

[lugbolt]

I'm pretty sure there's damage internally based on what you are hearing

remove the oil filter and cut it open. what do you see inside of it?

 

[SidecarFlip]

I'm pretty sure there's damage internally based on what you are hearing

remove the oil filter and cut it open. what do you see inside of it?

Fair statement and even less costly. Bearing metal, journal metal will be in the filter pleats.

 

[claybreaker 144]

I may take some flak over this comment but if I were you, before I did anything else, I'd warm the engine to operating temp and pull an oil sample and send it off to Blackstone and get an oil analysis. Then you will know for certain if the bearings or internal parts are damaged because it will show up[ on the analysis report and it only costs 20 bucks.

20 bucks is a lot less than a rebuilt engine or even new internal parts especially if you don't know what is damaged and what isn't.

I saw metal flakes on the on the bottom of the drain pan when I changed the oil after the incident. I did keep a sample but didn't send it out.

 

[200mph]

engine oil drain plugs fell out our 3430. The tractor was run until it stalled, restarted and traveled a short distance stalled again.

Tractor has a more noticeable clack to it and I see a slight blue tint in the exhaust once in a while

Based on the above it is very likely the engine has been damaged and it will only get worse over time.

1. The engine didn't stall, it seized due to metal friction overcoming the combustion forces. It's safe to say accelerated wear has taken place under these conditions.

2. Increase in noise is likely due to bearing issues or piston/rod issue, such as a broken skirt.

It will be interesting to see what direction the OP takes and I hope they document their actions even if it is no action.

Good luck.

 

[claybreaker 144]

At one point Kubota had the prices in the wholegoods price sheet, but about 5 years ago they shifted the engines from Wholegoods to part.

Did a quick search and found this.
https://countrysalesandservice.com/kubota-d1703er-kubota-tractorl-l3300-l3410-l3400-l3430/

I went to the dealer shortly after and they couldn't give me an exact quote because I didn't have a serial number for the motor, they did say 3700-5400 ball park.
I located the serial number yesterday so I will go back to the dealer. I'm sure I can overhaul for less than $3700.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

About $1300 to completely rebuild with all OEM parts, if you do all your own work.
Most people with any mechanical aptitude can do that rebuild with maybe a little help from a few of us!

 

[200mph]

I went to the dealer shortly after and they couldn't give me an exact quote because I didn't have a serial number for the motor, they did say 3700-5400 ball park.
I located the serial number yesterday so I will go back to the dealer. I'm sure I can overhaul for less than $3700.

I agree you should be able to rebuild for less, but wanted to make certain you knew they were offered through Kubota. In some case where other aspects of your engine are questionable it might make sense to go new for some folks.

Please post when you do get a price from the dealer.

Keep us posted with your progress and prices if you don't mind.

 

[KennysNewFarm]

If it were me I would remove the engine oil filter and cut it in half. Check for pieces of metal and major shavings. If metal is found make a decision on rebuilding or buying a new motor. If not change the oil and filter and keep running. Also as Sidecarflip mentioned an oil sample could reveal any mechanical or lubricant issues. At my shop the sample is $100 bucks.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If it were me I would remove the engine oil filter and cut it in half. Check for pieces of metal and major shavings. If metal is found make a decision on rebuilding or buying a new motor. If not change the oil and filter and keep running. Also as Sidecarflip mentioned an oil sample could reveal any mechanical or lubricant issues. At my shop the sample is $100 bucks.

Blackstone Labs is 28 bucks and they will send you the sample kit for free. You pay for the return and that have prepaid sample bottles too. Who I use. Always used them on everything, not just engines.


www.blackstone-labs.com

 

[rbargeron]

I may take some flak over this comment but if I were you, before I did anything else, I'd warm the engine to operating temp and pull an oil sample and send it off to Blackstone and get an oil analysis. Then you will know for certain if the bearings or internal parts are damaged because it will show up[ on the analysis report and it only costs 20 bucks.

20 bucks is a lot less than a rebuilt engine or even new internal parts especially if you don't know what is damaged and what isn't.

Good advice. There's not much doubt that some wear has taken place. What's NOT known is whether the wear is continuing due to already-damaged surfaces.

Do a test now, change oil and filter(s) and do another test after a couple more hours running. If the second test shows more wear metals content, rebuild it before more parts are damaged beyond repair.

 

[DustyRusty]

Check with your homeowners insurance to see if it is covered. I had an incident with my yard truck when I hit a rock and pulled the differential cover open, and the gear oil leaked out damaging the gears. I asked if it were covered, and it was, since it wasn't registered for the road, and was used exclusively for servicing the property. Asking is free, and you never know what the answer is going to be until you ask.