Do Kubota's have a sticker or label for recommended air pressure in tires or do u guys go by the sidewall of the tires ? i was just thinking that if you dont use your tractor up near its limits(like haevy loader work), do any of you lower the air pressure some for a smoother ride ? (i dont have a BX tractor yet) .
what tire air pressure ?
- Thread starter miketrock
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The manual gives the tire pressures. The pressures on the sidewalls are the maximum pressures to which the tire should be subjected. Actual working pressure will be lower. Smoother ride? You're kidding, right?
Tire weight carrying rating is based on the maximum tire pressure that is marked on the sidewall of the tire. Running tires underinflated isn't good for the tire, but it might make the tractor ride a bit smoother. An example that comes to mind is the late 1990 Ford Explorers, where Ford recommended a lower tire pressure to give a smoother ride. It also led to tire failures, along with a recall of the tires themselves. I always run tires at the maximum recommended tire pressure, and at that time, when Ford replaced the tires as a result of the recall, I had over 40K miles on my tires, and no failure.
I have a BX22, and my rear tires are filled with liquid ballast. Since my tires are about 15 years old, they loose air, and I can immediately tell, because the rim (wheel) will spin inside of the tire, and I will not have any traction. I air them up to 20 PSI, and the traction is restored. It is a tractor, and it was never intended to have a smooth ride. The ride is determined by the ground underneath the tires, because tractors don't have any suspension components. Everything is bolted solid. If the front tires aren't inflated to the maximum, when you are carrying weight in the front bucket, you run the risk of the front tire coming off the rim. If this happens, and you don't notice it almost immediately, you have a good chance of destroying the tire beyond future use.
I have a BX22, and my rear tires are filled with liquid ballast. Since my tires are about 15 years old, they loose air, and I can immediately tell, because the rim (wheel) will spin inside of the tire, and I will not have any traction. I air them up to 20 PSI, and the traction is restored. It is a tractor, and it was never intended to have a smooth ride. The ride is determined by the ground underneath the tires, because tractors don't have any suspension components. Everything is bolted solid. If the front tires aren't inflated to the maximum, when you are carrying weight in the front bucket, you run the risk of the front tire coming off the rim. If this happens, and you don't notice it almost immediately, you have a good chance of destroying the tire beyond future use.
no, not kidding, like I said, if you don't use your tractor heavily loaded u mite not need full pressure. obviously you wouldn't go so low to lose a bead. maybe like instead of 22psi, maybe 18 or 17 or whatever would work. I work in construction and often the front end loader/back hoes have aired down, squishy tires …. im assuming so its not such a bouncy ride. and they usually do use them heavily loaded all day. so … your kidding, right ? your not that ignorant to not be able to understand, right ?
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miketrock,
Please don't use insulting remarks to try and get an answer or as a reply, it's not polite!
Simple, your not going to get much of a comfort difference on a BX tire changing tire pressures, too stiff of tire design and too light of a tractor.
The one thing you will get is a flat tire, these BX's are notorious for that when under filling the tires.
DustyRusty was correct, under filling the front tire can cause them to simply roll off the rims.
These are much different tire designs than those on larger equipment.
Please don't use insulting remarks to try and get an answer or as a reply, it's not polite!
Simple, your not going to get much of a comfort difference on a BX tire changing tire pressures, too stiff of tire design and too light of a tractor.
The one thing you will get is a flat tire, these BX's are notorious for that when under filling the tires.
DustyRusty was correct, under filling the front tire can cause them to simply roll off the rims.
These are much different tire designs than those on larger equipment.
On my bx, it definitely gives a smoother ride with lower pressure. For cutting grass my tires are aired down, 12 psi rear, 18 psi front. It also lets the contact patch spread out, so less compression on wet grass in clay. When i do loader work, I go 24 psi front , 18 psi rear to keep tires from rolling. tire goo in the fronts, unloaded rears, 10 years no problem
24 psi is 2 psi higher than side wall rating, still no problem.
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24 psi is 2 psi higher than side wall rating, still no problem.
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Turf tires offer a much smoother ride if those would work for you.
Other than that, get a suspension seat.
Other than that, get a suspension seat.
turfs,
best choice for me, I’m not in mud much were ags would work better, and definitely don’t need the tougher industrial bar tires.
Going to need new fronts soon, worn down quit a bit, no tread on outside edge. Funny thing is from Messick’s the front turfs with rims are couple bucks cheaper than tires with no rims.
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As mentioned above if you have the operators manual the recommended pressure can be found. I took a permanent marker and wrote the psi next to each air valve of each wheel.
I also wrote the torque foot pounds next to a bolt on each wheel so I don’t have to look up either when I am doing quick check ups.
I also wrote the torque foot pounds next to a bolt on each wheel so I don’t have to look up either when I am doing quick check ups.
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Not only do I put labels on my rims for tire pressure and torque for lug nuts, I put wrench sizes for most fasteners, especially for the sillymeter ones. I hate having to walk back to the tool box for the right size wrench. I also don't want to drag the entire toolbox to the tractor to tighten one nut. Most of my shop equipment has wrench sizes written on them as well. Saves a lot of aggravation and time. I have also color coded wrench and socket sizes so I know which wrench to grab. I guess the next step would be to color code the fastener instead of a specific size.