Battery life
- Thread starter Pizzaguy
- Start date
Probably. When I paint the inside of aircraft battery boxes I first neutralize any residue with a baking-soda wash, then dry, then paint it with this Randolph paint. After several years (each inspection requires the battery to be removed and serviced, and the box inspected) the paint may have chipped or worn away where the battery sat and vibration eventually thins and abrades the paint. But this Randolph 345 can be painted-over and it “flows” and blends well with existing paint, not requiring stripping, etc.
Reminds me of when I ran the paint department for an electronics cabinet maker long ago. We did the cabinets for submarine use and the interiors had to be coated with special paint that when it got hot, extinguished the fire within.
We did E-coat and electrostatic coating plus alkyd. Interesting job. The isocyanates' were a bitch however. I'm surprised I have any lungs left.
We did E-coat and electrostatic coating plus alkyd. Interesting job. The isocyanates' were a bitch however. I'm surprised I have any lungs left.
One thing about starting batteries in general and that is, lifetime depends on if they are maintained properly and how much impact damage they sustain. Batteries, in general prefer to be stationary, not bounced around in a tractor with no suspension.
speaking of tractor batteries, Ive noted in my L2501 owners manual, under maintenance, when going over the greasing maintenance the battery terminals is one of the items listed to grease. Ive never seen this talked about anywhere. I check my terminals every time I pop the hood to check my radiator screen - just a quick glance and tug to make sure they are tight and no corrosion. I have avoided putting grease on the terminals as it just seems like it would make a mess and be a dust/dirt magnet. Anyone have thoughts or comments on greasing the battery terminals as is mentioned in the owners manual?
I was curious as to exactly WHAT it is... so I clicked on their link “how it works” and there’s no info at all actually. They just say “it works”.
So, what is the active ingredient? Anyone know?
Grease is indeed a bit messy and attracts dirt/dust. The way it works is it insulates the terminal from atmospheric oxygen and since it’s oily, it coats the entire assembly. Messy yes... works yes.
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Best product I've found as a corrosion preventive is a rattle can of gel-lube. I use it all the time in the shop. Never had a corrosion issue with the Kubota, and they're dry. Best corrosion remover is 212° boiling water.... (100° for the rest of the world). Never use baking soda on a good battery.
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I've had mine in there for 10+ yrs now and its still (almost) as good as new.
I make sure to keep it fully charged though, especially in winter.
I make sure to keep it fully charged though, especially in winter.
ONe of the differences between “starting” and “deep cycle”/“Marine” batteries is their internal construction.
Starting batteries have large-area plates to expose as much surface-area to the electrolyte as possible to produce large-current capability for short-periods. Their plates are therefore thinner and more fragile and subject to degradation from vibration and rough use.
That is one reason batteries for rough use such as marine (boats bounce hard in rough seas/waves) tractors, construction equipment, etc. (airplanes too).... those batteries share construction characteristics with “deep cycle” batteries, which have heavier/thicker plates which resist warpage and rough-use movement which can “short” the plates and/or dislodge them from internal connections/bridging. Some of the best rough-use/deep-cycle batteries actually have insulation-materials placed between the plates, submerged in the electrolyte in order to prevent their shorting out against each other as well as to cushion them from vibration. Deep-cycle batteries, with their more robust plates are less likely to warp under deep-discharge conditions and can provide lower discharge rates over longer periods ...but their trade-off is they are not as capable of providing high discharge-rates over short-term periods.
Since tractors, boats, airplanes, etc. typically do not undergo frequent, repetitive starting-cycles... it’s often better to provide them with “deep-cycle” or rough-use/marine batteries.
Buying Tip: If you are comparing batteries to each other of similar types, the less expensive batteries usually weigh less than the expensive ones because they have less plate-material in them. That’s why they also won’t last as long under similar use/conditions.
Starting batteries have large-area plates to expose as much surface-area to the electrolyte as possible to produce large-current capability for short-periods. Their plates are therefore thinner and more fragile and subject to degradation from vibration and rough use.
That is one reason batteries for rough use such as marine (boats bounce hard in rough seas/waves) tractors, construction equipment, etc. (airplanes too).... those batteries share construction characteristics with “deep cycle” batteries, which have heavier/thicker plates which resist warpage and rough-use movement which can “short” the plates and/or dislodge them from internal connections/bridging. Some of the best rough-use/deep-cycle batteries actually have insulation-materials placed between the plates, submerged in the electrolyte in order to prevent their shorting out against each other as well as to cushion them from vibration. Deep-cycle batteries, with their more robust plates are less likely to warp under deep-discharge conditions and can provide lower discharge rates over longer periods ...but their trade-off is they are not as capable of providing high discharge-rates over short-term periods.
Since tractors, boats, airplanes, etc. typically do not undergo frequent, repetitive starting-cycles... it’s often better to provide them with “deep-cycle” or rough-use/marine batteries.
Buying Tip: If you are comparing batteries to each other of similar types, the less expensive batteries usually weigh less than the expensive ones because they have less plate-material in them. That’s why they also won’t last as long under similar use/conditions.
One thing to always remember when buying a flooded cell battery from anywhere is...
When you buy it and they punch the date code it means NOTHING because the battery began it's useful life as soon as the electrolyte was added SO, when buying a battery from anywwhere, if it has dust on the top, don't buy it because it is old and getting feeble AND always buy from a volume seller not a mom and pop place. Volume sellers turn over batteries quickly and you have a better chance of getting a fresh one versus a stale one.
When you buy it and they punch the date code it means NOTHING because the battery began it's useful life as soon as the electrolyte was added SO, when buying a battery from anywwhere, if it has dust on the top, don't buy it because it is old and getting feeble AND always buy from a volume seller not a mom and pop place. Volume sellers turn over batteries quickly and you have a better chance of getting a fresh one versus a stale one.
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Agreed. Most batteries today have a mfg date sticker or a code that can be deciphered. You want the newest of course.... (dig to the back of the rack at Walmart or Sams club
.)