LA211 valve modifications

[shelkol]

I have a LA211 with the old 3-way valve made by Husco. I compared the parts list for the 4-way and 3-way and ordered the parts I'd need to convert it. Well, it didn't work. I assume there may be something different about the casting. So I am now going to add another single spool valve after it.

I took the valve off the loader frame and mounted it on my home made cab. I was wondering if I got a 'Kubota: BLOCK, ASSY HYDR, Part # 75538-61300' would it fit the old Husco style valve? It would mae it look a lot neater.

Thanks

 

[Kennyd4110]

Welcome to OTT.

I can't directly answer your question, but yes the castings would be ported differently for 3 and 4 way valve.

Generally, spools are a matched fit to a valve body meaning they are lapped and honed for a near interference fit to minimize leak-by internally. Mixing different parts is not advisable and I'm surprised you could even purchase the spools separately.

Have you thought about adding a solenoid valve inline as a 3rd function? It could be outside your cab and you'd just use a switch to control it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a LA211 with the old 3-way valve made by Husco. I compared the parts list for the 4-way and 3-way and ordered the parts I'd need to convert it. Well, it didn't work. I assume there may be something different about the casting. So I am now going to add another single spool valve after it.

I took the valve off the loader frame and mounted it on my home made cab. I was wondering if I got a 'Kubota: BLOCK, ASSY HYDR, Part # 75538-61300' would it fit the old Husco style valve? It would mae it look a lot neater.

Thanks

I'm a little confused, what didn't work?

 

[shelkol]

Kennyd4110: I thought of a solenoid valve, but a mechanical one is cheaper

I tried using an electric selector valve, but the roll cylinder spool is a regen circuit and doesn't work nicely when you are not dumping a bucket, but just swinging a plow side to side.

North Idaho Wolfman: It doesn't seem to work - 2 things. One, there is no detent or feedback when moving the joystick to the right to distinguish between the two positions. Two, when in the first position to the right, it still seems to be a regen position and when you move it all the way to the right, it just does nothing and I can hear the pressure release going off.

 

[Kennyd4110]

Cheaper is not always better...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Kennyd4110: I thought of a solenoid valve, but a mechanical one is cheaper

I tried using an electric selector valve, but the roll cylinder spool is a regen circuit and doesn't work nicely when you are not dumping a bucket, but just swinging a plow side to side.

North Idaho Wolfman: It doesn't seem to work - 2 things. One, there is no detent or feedback when moving the joystick to the right to distinguish between the two positions. Two, when in the first position to the right, it still seems to be a regen position and when you move it all the way to the right, it just does nothing and I can hear the pressure release going off.

Does the plow have single action cylinders, In other words are the cylinder / cylinders only has one line feeding it?

 

[shelkol]

I looked into the solenoid valve available from Surplus Center. It did not have power beyond and they did not suggest they had any others that would work.

The plow has a single cylinder - double acting.

 

[shelkol]

I looked into the solenoid valve available from Surplus Center. It did not have power beyond and they did not suggest they had any others that would work. They also suggested I do research on the loader valve to ensure that it has power beyond.

The plow has a single cylinder - double acting.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If the plow has a double acting cylinder there is no reason a regen valve would not work.

Most think it doesn't work because they are not pushing the lever past the second detent for the regen to be overridden.

 

[shelkol]

Yeah, but, mine is an old LA211 that has the 3-way valve so I don't have that extra position.

Did some ore research yesterday. Prince Wolverine has a single spool 8 GPM valve for about $100. The cheapest solenoid valve with power beyond is about $300 and it is 13 GPM which is quite a bit larger.

So it looks like I'm going the manual valve and just have to find a place to put it.

Thanks all for your input When I'm done I'll upload some pics showing the changes and my homemade cab

 

[Kennyd4110]

Solenoid valves (actually the subplots for them like D05) don't usually have PB, they can handle the back pressure that makes PB needed in regular monoblock spool valves. Look at the OEM Kubota and WR Long 3rd function valves-they all just have IN/OUT ports and no PB/BYD ports.

 

[shelkol]

Thanks, I checked the specs and you are right. That makes it a little easier.

I just made wooden models of both the Wolverine manual valve ($101) and the Surplus Center Eaton-Vickers valve (~$185 with base plate). This will allow me to get an idea of where they might fit and what hoses / fittings I will need.