M4900 Lift arm height

[Magicman]

I have the WSM and page 8-S9 addresses the lift arm adjustment. I just bought the tractor last month so some stuff is still new to me.

My issue is that the lift arms don't go as high up as the old JD, which is causing me a problems with a couple of implements.

I am hoping that there is a simple adjustment on the position control linkage or the feedback rod but I wanted to ask questions first.

(I turned the lifting rods all of the way up but that was not enough.)

 

[rbargeron]

By using different holes in the lift arms(or drilling more) upward range can be traded against available upforce, or min height. I had a three-point forklift once that needed a couple more inches of lift - new arm holes closer in made the difference.

 

[Magicman]

I thought about that but there is not much room to drill another hole. It's sorta crowded as it is and I don't think 1" further out would make much difference.

 

[BigG]

What are you having trouble lifting?How much height are you trying to gain? Would adding Pat's Quick attach to your 3 point arms make them long enough to make a difference? Is your top link too long?

 

[Magicman]

It's not a weight problem, just a height problem. The implement in question is a subsoiler. The JD has much more lift height and I just wanted to know if there was an adjustment in the position control linkage, etc.

I have Pat's Quick attach which makes no difference either way, nor does the top link make any difference with the lift arm height.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

On that model changing the position of the top link will greatly affect implement height, that is why there is 4 positions.

 

[BigG]

By using different holes in the lift arms(or drilling more) upward range can be traded against available upforce, or min height. I had a three-point forklift once that needed a couple more inches of lift - new arm holes closer in made the difference.

I am looking at the photo that you provided and wondering if you are looking at the problem wrong. If the new holes are drilled closer to the rear axle the lift would be higher but you will lose the amount of weight you can lift. The implication I got from the picture is that you were wanting to go away from the rear axle.

 

[Magicman]

I am familiar with the 4 top link positions and their affect on draft control. Also that shortening the top link, however way, will have a fulcrum effect on an implement's height.

Neither of these will raise the height of the ends of the lift arms which is my question.

An implement (subsoiler) must be kept level during operation in order for it to to bite into the ground during operation. Shortening the top link raises the "plow" point making it impossible for it to do it's job.

So back to my original question: Is there an adjustment in the position control linkage, etc. that will allow the lift arms to be raised higher?

 

[Magicman]

No BigG. Your geometry is wrong. Closer to the tractor lowers the lift arms, and away raises the lift arms.

I have considered attaching the lifting rods in the same holes as the stabilizers which gives me ~3"-4" of height. The other option is to just use shorter lifting rods which would be the easiest.

Before I do anything I want to know if my lift arms are as they should be and whether there is a normal adjustment that can be made.

 

[Newlyme]

Magicman,
I have the same tractor. I'll be home in an hour and a half. I'll check measurements with pictures. If you would like.

 

[RCW]

No BigG. Your geometry is wrong. Closer to the tractor lowers the lift arms, and away raises the lift arms.

Magic, you don't have it backwards, but you're only considering one side of the equation....

It is true that moving it closer will lower the lift arm ends when down, but they will also go higher when lifted.

Think of it as moving the fulcrum such that one side of a lever is very short; enough to create a much wider range of motion on the opposite end of the lever.

A lift link/rod hooked closer to the tractor will allow the lower link-end to raise higher and go lower, but at the expense of some lifting force.

Moving that attachment further out on the lower link has the opposite effect...ends don't go as low or high, but can lift more.

Don't know your tractor, but I'd be surprised if an M didn't have multiple options for hooking the lift links closer to the tractor to get the height your looking for.

 

[Magicman]

I would really appreciate it Newlyme. I'm at ~10" low and ~27" high.

I moved the lifting rods out 5" to the stabilizer bolts. Because of the geometry, that raised the low up 6" but only raised the top 2".

Yes, RCW, moving the lifting rods 5" closer to the tractor raises the lift arms 4" top but it puts the lift arms on the ground in the lowered position. Not good.

If there is no adjustment on the position control linkage it looks like I might shorten the lifting rods.

 

[Magicman]

My apology BigG. Actually moving the lifting rods both ways proved that both of us were right, just in different ways.

 

[RCW]

Magic-

We’re part way there.... bear with me and us a little.....
Properly setting the Position control should limit the travel down to keep your lowers out of the dirt.

It’s been 40+ years since I used that feature, so I’m not the guy to coach that aspect. I just don’t want to guess and lead you astray.

Maybe newlyme or another with position control can coach you there to limit the down travel.
My understanding has always been that’s why they call it position control...... and I don’t think I’m way off there. I think it’s doable.

Heck, I’d be apt to put a check chain from the subsoiler to top link mount before I cut the lift links....

As an aside, am I correct that you are quite savvy with a sawmill, and maybe I’ve seen you on another forum? If so, I regularly look at that forum and appreciate your expertise. I’m a forester by education and have cut a bunch of wood as a hobbyist in my younger days. Enjoy that forum, although I’ve never become a member.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Magicman]

If it was only the subsoiler, I could probably go with a chain to get me to the field, but there are also other implements. The subsoiler was just what I needed last weekend.

I am still hoping to hear from a Kubota technician regarding the position control linkage. There is adjustment there that is detailed on page 8-S9 in the WSM.

 

[BigG]

No apology needed, we are just trying to help.

I was using a small MF 1528 to rake hay and I was using a 3 point 4 wheel rake. My fix was to lower the pins down on the rake instead of changing the 3 ph. By lowering the pins and extending the top link the rake was still at the correct angle to work correctly.

So can you lower the pins easier then getting new or cutting your lifting rods?

 

[Magicman]

Magic-

As an aside, am I correct that you are quite savvy with a sawmill, and maybe I’ve seen you on another forum? If so, I regularly look at that forum and appreciate your expertise. I’m a forester by education and have cut a bunch of wood as a hobbyist in my younger days. Enjoy that forum, although I’ve never become a member.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, that is me and thanks for the kind words. MM

 

[Magicman]

No apology needed, we are just trying to help.

So can you lower the pins easier then getting new or cutting your lifting rods?

Yes, lowering the lift pins is an option. It would require some welding on the subsoiler, but there may be different holes on the dirt blade, etc. Good Idea.

 

[RCW]

MM -
Is it fair to say your “closer” lift point works for upward lift height, if you can now limit downward travel??

Do you have/need an Operator’s Manual to give you a tutorial on using the Position Control, or is there another issue with the PC?

Would it help if another OTT member gave you some pointers on how the PC works?
Not intended to insult your intelligence, just don’t know how well-versed you are with it’s use....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BigG]

If you are having problems with other implements maybe a quick attach could be extend down and the implements could be left as is. Rural King has a cat 2 quick hitch. I am not sure if you need a cat 1 or 2