L2350 Hard starting

[mercman]

I recently brought my L2350 from the Seattle, elevation 600', area to the mountains near Denver, elevation 8300'. I've been told that the elevation change should have no effect on the tractor but it's been very hard to start since I brought it here. Acts like it's flooded. Battery is at full charge, connections cleaned, fresh fuel. It is getting below freezing here now.

Any ideas of what I should check?

 

[RCW]

I'm no expert on elevation effects, but the first place I would look is glow plugs, just to make sure they're working properly.

I say that especially in light of it acting as though it's flooded, or starting "rich" after the move to elevation and colder conditions.

May not be your problem, but the first thing I would want to rule out.

 

[jakemaxwell806]

I recently brought my L2350 from the Seattle, elevation 600', area to the mountains near Denver, elevation 8300'. I've been told that the elevation change should have no effect on the tractor but it's been very hard to start since I brought it here. Acts like it's flooded. Battery is at full charge, connections cleaned, fresh fuel. It is getting below freezing here now.



Any ideas of what I should check?

Colder temps takes longer glow plug heating time if it's set to cycle automatically cycle the plugs more to make it start good an fast

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[Roadworthy]

While you're at it check the air filter. A lack of air can cause a too rich mixture. If in doubt replace the filter.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glow plugs, and if they are good then do a compression test.

Altitude will not effect it in the way your describing.
Bad fuel or bad glow plugs or low compression will.

 

[mercman]

First thing I did was replace the air filter! What should the compression check show for this model? The tractor does show about 1200 hours and was at 600 hours when I bought it in the mid 2000's

Thanks for all the replies!

Kurt

 

[D2Cat]

It would be easier to check the GP's than to check the compression. Why not do the easy stuff first? You can get a diesel compression tester kit at Harbor Freight for about $30. Compression will probably be between 350-450 PSI.

 

[nota4re]

Perhaps an obvious question.... are you turning the key on and waiting several seconds to allow the glow plugs to heat up before you start cranking?

 

[lugbolt]

Perhaps an obvious question.... are you turning the key on and waiting several seconds to allow the glow plugs to heat up before you start cranking?

That doesn't work on an L2350.

You have to turn the key backwards from "off" to make the glow system work on an L2350 (and several others).

On cold days even here (cold=under 40 deg F) L2350's needed the spring to glow red. In the dash is a hole with a spring under it. We have to turn the key backwards for about 15 seconds til the spring starts to glow, and then it'll start.

Also-is it possible that the tractor still has summer diesel in it? Winter diesel starts a little easier....

Yes to checking the glow plug operation and compression. You can check compression through the glow plug holes if you have the proper adapter to do so. The harbor junk compression tester is just that. Junk. Mine actually blew up internally and hurt the cheap metal housing. They offered to replace it but I decided that I didn't want another one, I work for a living and depend on my tools to make an accurate diagnosis for our customers, thus if I feed them bad or inaccurate information, there's a chance that we could be doing more work than needed, all on his/her dime-which isn't fair, IMO. I actually bought my gauge "kit" on eBay, wasn't the cheapest but wasn't the most expensive either. The adapters I also got on eBay. I think I've got about $125 tied up in 3 adapters (glow plug adapters) and the gauge/hose assembly. A good name brand kit is about $1500 and comes with more adapters to test through the injector nozzle holes. I use the glow plug holes because on most of the mechanically injected engines the glow plugs are a little easier to get at. The main thing to remember is that you gotta make SURE that the fuel is disabled when doing a compression test, with the injectors still in the holes, any fuel that gets into the cylinder will still burn and cause the engine to start/run while your gauge is screwed into the glow plug hole, and that'll give you a false reading. I did a BX2380 a while back and forgot to disable fuel and it started, gauge was reading 900 psi by time I got it shut back off.

The only time an elevation change would make it harder to start is if the engine's compression was already borderline. On a 2350, I'd like to see 400 psi on a "warm" engine, 380 on a cold engine. Those are what I'd call minimums. If low, check the valve clearance.

 

[jakemaxwell806]

That doesn't work on an L2350.

You have to turn the key backwards from "off" to make the glow system work on an L2350 (and several others).

On cold days even here (cold=under 40 deg F) L2350's needed the spring to glow red. In the dash is a hole with a spring under it. We have to turn the key backwards for about 15 seconds til the spring starts to glow, and then it'll start.

Also-is it possible that the tractor still has summer diesel in it? Winter diesel starts a little easier....

Yes to checking the glow plug operation and compression. You can check compression through the glow plug holes if you have the proper adapter to do so. The harbor junk compression tester is just that. Junk. Mine actually blew up internally and hurt the cheap metal housing. They offered to replace it but I decided that I didn't want another one, I work for a living and depend on my tools to make an accurate diagnosis for our customers, thus if I feed them bad or inaccurate information, there's a chance that we could be doing more work than needed, all on his/her dime-which isn't fair, IMO. I actually bought my gauge "kit" on eBay, wasn't the cheapest but wasn't the most expensive either. The adapters I also got on eBay. I think I've got about $125 tied up in 3 adapters (glow plug adapters) and the gauge/hose assembly. A good name brand kit is about $1500 and comes with more adapters to test through the injector nozzle holes. I use the glow plug holes because on most of the mechanically injected engines the glow plugs are a little easier to get at. The main thing to remember is that you gotta make SURE that the fuel is disabled when doing a compression test, with the injectors still in the holes, any fuel that gets into the cylinder will still burn and cause the engine to start/run while your gauge is screwed into the glow plug hole, and that'll give you a false reading. I did a BX2380 a while back and forgot to disable fuel and it started, gauge was reading 900 psi by time I got it shut back off.

The only time an elevation change would make it harder to start is if the engine's compression was already borderline. On a 2350, I'd like to see 400 psi on a "warm" engine, 380 on a cold engine. Those are what I'd call minimums. If low, check the valve clearance.

Good advice [emoji106]

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[mercman]

Hey gentlemen. I'm sorry for the lag.

My son passed away last month and it's been a roller coaster for me, but I've got to keep working on my building project. It does keep my mind off things.

So, I picked up where I left off and went to change out the glow plugs. I tested them and they are all under 1 ohm but I am going to replace them anyways. I have to do some backfill on Monday but need an intake manifold gasket so I'm going to have to rent a machine but still need to get this running.

It does have 1250 hours on the clock.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Hey gentlemen. I'm sorry for the lag.

My son passed away last month and it's been a roller coaster for me, but I've got to keep working on my building project. It does keep my mind off things.

OMG, sorry for your loss.