I was surprised a few days ago by my inability to stop on a steep section of a gravel road. I as in 2WD and carrying a few maple logs in the forks. I have a backhoe on the machine so there is plenty of counterweight. Going about 5 or 6MPH I braked . Rear wheels locked and I began to slide. What surprised me is that the front wheels continued to turn. I as able to stop by dropping the load down carefully. i get why the rears slid( lots of weight out front) but why did the fronts not brake? Will always do this in the future in AWD
L3301 problem stopping on hill 2WD
- Thread starter marksmand
- Start date
dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
There are no brakes on the front wheels. Only rear wheels have braking effect.
You learned a valuable lesson. In those situations, use 4wd when needing to brake while descending hills. Having your tractor in 4wd essentially splits the braking effect to all for wheels (3 really).
You learned a valuable lesson. In those situations, use 4wd when needing to brake while descending hills. Having your tractor in 4wd essentially splits the braking effect to all for wheels (3 really).
RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Very true. As dirty said, 4WD is a must on slopes. That can get down-right dangerous.
A couple years ago, several guys here took some hairy rides under exact circumstances.
I was one of them; I was in tight quarters and had a plate tamper hanging from the bucket. Thought about shifting to 4WD....nah, only going a little ways, should be fine....
My slide was only 10-12 feet and I wasn't in danger, but it sure as heck got my attention.!.!.!
Chalk it up as a lesson. We can never learn too much, and welcome to OTT!
Thanks for your response. I certainly slid a lot more than 10 to 12 feet and was eyeing a shallow ditch before I got under control!
4wd for me from now on
4wd for me from now on
got a new seat ordered
????BTDT on an old 3000 ford w/o a loader, spooky when the right rear is turning one way and the left rear the other
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
One needs to be very careful descending a steep hill with a heavy load on the FEL. There is a video from Tractor Mike on how and why to come down a hill backwards.
Love my 3301 here in the Tennessee holler 4 wd is a must as mentioned the braking in 2 wd is nonexistent .. Extreme pucker factor pointed downhill ..
As others have pointed out, the tractor has a "wet disc" brake inboard of each rear wheel. You can see the brake housings from the back of the tractor on the axle tubes. These brakes are mechanical, not hydraulically assisted like a car. (Things change when you get to really large tractors).
As DirtyDeed mentioned, even when 4x4 is engaged, only one of the front wheels is "guaranteed" to have braking effect. This is because braking power from the rear is transmitted through the front 4x4 driveshaft and to the front differential. Because these tractors have "open" front differentials (meaning not lockable or limited slip), power will always go to the path of least resistance. This is true when you are accelerating the tractor or braking the tractor. The path of least resistance always means the wheel with less traction, unfortunately. So if you are trying to make it up a hill with good traction on one side and mud on the other, in 4x4, the front wheel with all the power will be the one in the mud. Likewise, coming down the hill, the wheel with the braking action will be the one in the mud (in the front). This same thing applies to most all cars and trucks on the road. However, in many cases on a tractor, the ground conditions are similar under the wheels and power will apply roughly equally.
Last piece of advice. Use 4x4 for coming down slopes, but I wouldn't recommend leaving 4x4 engaged at all times. If nothing else it will greatly increase wear on your front tires and create a larger front turning radius. It will also cause binding on tight turns and add stress to your tractor's drivetrain.
As DirtyDeed mentioned, even when 4x4 is engaged, only one of the front wheels is "guaranteed" to have braking effect. This is because braking power from the rear is transmitted through the front 4x4 driveshaft and to the front differential. Because these tractors have "open" front differentials (meaning not lockable or limited slip), power will always go to the path of least resistance. This is true when you are accelerating the tractor or braking the tractor. The path of least resistance always means the wheel with less traction, unfortunately. So if you are trying to make it up a hill with good traction on one side and mud on the other, in 4x4, the front wheel with all the power will be the one in the mud. Likewise, coming down the hill, the wheel with the braking action will be the one in the mud (in the front). This same thing applies to most all cars and trucks on the road. However, in many cases on a tractor, the ground conditions are similar under the wheels and power will apply roughly equally.
Last piece of advice. Use 4x4 for coming down slopes, but I wouldn't recommend leaving 4x4 engaged at all times. If nothing else it will greatly increase wear on your front tires and create a larger front turning radius. It will also cause binding on tight turns and add stress to your tractor's drivetrain.
As a kid, I was hauling some concrete chunks for my dad in his L. Went down the driveway in 2WD and the rear wheels lost traction. The tractor was basically teetering on the front axle because of the excessive weight.
I was very close to hitting a fence. Yeah I***8217;ll never make that mistake again. Lol.
I was very close to hitting a fence. Yeah I***8217;ll never make that mistake again. Lol.
Keep it in 4x4 all the time as long as you aren't going on dry pavement! This way I don't forget when hauling a load down a slope.
BigG
Well-known member
Equipment
l2501, FEL, BB, Rotary cutter, rake,spreader, roller, etc. New Holland TL80 A
Keeping a tractor in 4x4 all the time is not a good idea. On pavement or not, the extra wear and tear is not something you need to do to your tractor. You need to be able to sense when to engage the 4x4. The reduction in the turning radius of the front wheels should be enough to indicate the extra wear caused by the 4x4. I only engage the 4x4 when I am headed into a problem or know soft spot. When the wheels start to spin then engage. Do not try to dig your way out then engage it. Using the 4x4 the ground will be disturbed more often when it does not need to be causing a worn pathway that will turn into a mud hole in the winter.
Dont forget to keep your load as low as possible up front and put the biggest counterweight you can on the back.
Yesterday I added a 3 point carryall with a 35 gallon drum filled with gravel.. It is like a completely different tractor. It stops on a slope in 2 wheel drive and feels much more planted ..Waiting for my grapple to show up and use the tractor more as it is finally cooling off ..
If you don't already get the rear tires loaded. That will make a huge difference and it has the weight low so it really helps with stability.