I have a BX2750B snow blower that I ruined one of the augers on. I am trying to pull out the gear box assembly but I can't drive out the hex bolt on the gear box shaft to remove it. It's number 7 on the parts diagram. I tried a punch and then a compressor driver/hammer, and then heating it with a propane torch and driver this all again and it just won't budge. Looking for suggestions. There really isn't room to drill it out.
replacing snowblower auger
- Thread starter dvto2
- Start date
On Messicks there are a series of parts illustrations for your particular blower and each of those has a #7.
I cannot find one which fits your description.
Suggest you do a screen capture and post that to clarify.
Rarely does propane torch heating do any good as the heating process is too slow and everything heats up which does not assist in disassembly. You want one part to heat up faster and expand thus freeing the parts.
Dave
I cannot find one which fits your description.
Suggest you do a screen capture and post that to clarify.
Rarely does propane torch heating do any good as the heating process is too slow and everything heats up which does not assist in disassembly. You want one part to heat up faster and expand thus freeing the parts.
Dave
I'm not sure about what you are trying to take apart. You should be able to remove the entire gearbox, auger assembly and the impeller then remove the damaged auger.
Here's a pic. I was trying to pull out the gear assembly by removing bolt labeled 7.
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You are taking it apart in a difficult place.
Instead, work on the back of the blower where the reduction drive attaches. This will allow the fan and augers to come out as one unit.
There will be collars with set screws preventing the shaft from sliding under use.
You can get a puller on some. Recently, a forum member reported using a BFH meaning Big F....king Hammer. Not a good idea.
Better to cut frozen collars with an angle grinder and replace with new collars rather than subjecting the gear box internals to shock loads.
This is the thread using the BFH:
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43121
The fastener you have been trying to remove is possibly a shear bolt which has gotten bent. You would need to cut it flush on both sides with an angle grinder and then hope to drive out the stub remaining.
Dave
Instead, work on the back of the blower where the reduction drive attaches. This will allow the fan and augers to come out as one unit.
There will be collars with set screws preventing the shaft from sliding under use.
You can get a puller on some. Recently, a forum member reported using a BFH meaning Big F....king Hammer. Not a good idea.
Better to cut frozen collars with an angle grinder and replace with new collars rather than subjecting the gear box internals to shock loads.
This is the thread using the BFH:
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43121
The fastener you have been trying to remove is possibly a shear bolt which has gotten bent. You would need to cut it flush on both sides with an angle grinder and then hope to drive out the stub remaining.
Dave
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The fastener you have been trying to remove is possibly a shear bolt which has gotten bent. You would need to cut it flush on both sides with an angle grinder and then hope to drive out the stub remaining.
Dave[/QUOTE]
It isn't supposed to be a shearbolt but may have become one if the actual shearbolt has been upsized! Not at all uncommon . If it has partially sheared the only fix is to cut off the collar and buy or build a new one. I have seen this a couple of times.
Dave[/QUOTE]
It isn't supposed to be a shearbolt but may have become one if the actual shearbolt has been upsized! Not at all uncommon . If it has partially sheared the only fix is to cut off the collar and buy or build a new one. I have seen this a couple of times.
This is not a shear bolt. It's the stock bolt that caroded into the shaft. The end with the nut broke off so I have a good surface to try and drive the nut out but so far I can't get it.
To my knowledge there have been two different styles of providing a shear bolt for the fan.
In the first image note the snap ring securing the fan to its shaft and preventing the fan from moving outwards along the shaft. The only other fastener in the picture is the shear bolt.
In the second image, a black flange, (later painted orange in production models) moved the shear bolt location and the snap ring was eliminated. The fan was manufactured with a flange as well.
Dave
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Should not have to remove that bolt. Remove the shear bolt and the shaft will slide off the fan.
The auger assembly including that shaft slide out the front. You need to pull the chain drive assembly off the shaft from the back first.
The auger assembly including that shaft slide out the front. You need to pull the chain drive assembly off the shaft from the back first.
I started to do it that way and then I saw the bolt in front and thought it would be easier. I actually had the chain drive side partially disassembled. I did that once before when I replaced the entire housing. Thanks.
The easiest way is to work from the rear of the blower to the front. I have taken mine apart a couple of times, and I am familiar with bolt #7. If it has corroded, then once you have the entire unit apart, you can set the shaft on an anvil, and drive the bolt out. Unless the shaft is supported securely, no amount of hammering on it is going to move that bolt. Personally, I prefer to use a press to remove these type of stubborn broken bolts. Less chance of damaging anything. I have been using Deep Creep by Seafoam as a penetrating oil, with good results. I suggest giving it a try. While you have it apart, I would suggest replacing the bearings, since they are not very expensive. If you wrecked your drive chain, you can purchase a 10' section of chain at Tractor Supply and make up a lot of chains for the future, rather than buying the expensive chain from Kubota. I bought the bearings on eBay and from memory, they were about $7.00 each, including shipping. The most important thing is to make sure that you mark the augers Right & Left before you remove them, and not get them mixed up during reassembly. I made this mistake once and had to take it apart, and swap them. Also, while you have the blower apart, I suggest that you install a grease fitting in the rear auger that pushes the snow out. The shaft goes through the auger, and the auger is driven with a shear pin holding two halves of a flange together. Number 7 in the diagram is the bolt holding one half of the flange to the shaft. On mine, the flange is secured onto the shaft, and I was unable to remove it. I believe that Locktite might have been used on that during assembly. In my case, I chose not to mess with the flange, because it wouldn't move even after I removed the bolt.
Here is a thread that I started last year when I purchased a snow blower that was "damaged" during use.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40421
Here is a thread that I started last year when I purchased a snow blower that was "damaged" during use.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40421
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I was able to loosen the rear gear and collar on the back of the shaft but I can't seem to get the assembly to pull forward. I tried bracing the housing with stakes and pulling the assembly with the tractor but that did not work, and then just lifting the assembly but the housing and it doesn't seem to want to slide out. Am I missing something that's holding it on?
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Just to make certain...
It's always possible some there is some rust between the shaft and associated collars/bearings preventing the assembly to pull out from the front.
I'm glad it didn't come loose and fall to the ground.
- You did remove the gear and collar from the rear.
- Auger bearings are removed from both ends of the auger
- The support structure that holds the gear case between the two augers to the upper cover has been removed.
It's always possible some there is some rust between the shaft and associated collars/bearings preventing the assembly to pull out from the front.
I'm glad it didn't come loose and fall to the ground.
I removed the rear gear, the rear collar (part 24), the bolts from the auger shaft end bearings (part 14), and the bolts from the gear box bracket (part 18). Maybe the bearing inside part 23 is frozen to the shaft.
With the fan (item 3) shear bolt removed, does the fan rotate freely on the shaft? Perhaps the fan is preventing the shaft from sliding out.
Can you remove the bearing plate from the back side (chain sprocket side) to verify bearing is loose on shaft? Cut the bolts if necessary.
FYI... When rebuilding the same blower I added grease fittings to the fan, so grease could be pumped in to keep moisture/corrosion at bay. The fan rides on bronze bearings, but over time my blower had enough corrosion built up where the between the bearing preventing the fan from rotating on the shaft. Basically rendering the shear bolt useless.
Also added additional grease fittings to the augers for a total of three. Grease from center one and then use the end ones depending on how the grease flows.
Can you remove the bearing plate from the back side (chain sprocket side) to verify bearing is loose on shaft? Cut the bolts if necessary.
FYI... When rebuilding the same blower I added grease fittings to the fan, so grease could be pumped in to keep moisture/corrosion at bay. The fan rides on bronze bearings, but over time my blower had enough corrosion built up where the between the bearing preventing the fan from rotating on the shaft. Basically rendering the shear bolt useless.
Also added additional grease fittings to the augers for a total of three. Grease from center one and then use the end ones depending on how the grease flows.
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Fan rotates freely. Your suggestion about the back bearing plate is a good one but as I remember it's a pain to take off send reattach but I think that's my next step
As I dig into this, I noticed that cover on the worm assembly is what looks to be scraped away by the smashed auger. I assumed it was a bearing that was pressed in but looking at the other side and the parts diagram it's just the cover, and I don't even see it in the parts diagram.
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Went to the dealer. They said I would probably have top cut out that inner bearing on the shaft. I ordered a new bearing and a seal kit for the worm gear housing. Thanks all.