Shell Rotella T6 5w-40

[troverman]

Well, maybe and maybe not. We both (Bulldog and I) run Ford V8 diesels, not gas motors though I still have a 7.3 PS and he's upgraded to a later model. I realized a 3 mpg increase in fuel consumption (and I penciled it carefully) when I started using Archoil Nano Borate additive and their fuel additive in my 7.3. Could be 'snake oil' but my calculations say no. Base oil remained the same, 5-40 T6. Is it cheap? No. Does it work? Certainly. Added benefit for me is the motor is a HUEI engine, Hydraulically actuated unit injector motor and the injectors tend to carbon up at the end of the injector pintle and the Nano-Borate cleans the carbon deposits away so the motor starts easier and runs smoother. It also keeps the motor clean inside (Nano-Borate is a cleaning compound). Last year I replaced the injector harnesses on both banks and had the valve covers off and both overheads were as clean and residue free as when the engine was built. If my Kubota tractors had the same injection system (they don't), I'd be using it in them as well.

Not sure about the sequential cylinder shut down feature being 'new'. My wife's 2008 Suburban LTZ has that. It has that to meet the fuel economy standards without having to pay a 'gas guzzler' tax. Runs on all 8 until you set the cruise (over 50) and then derates 4 cylinders and runs as a 4 cylinder until the ECM calls for 'power' and then it reverts back to all 8.

I've owned six Ford Powerstroke diesels. The old HEUI fuel systems use engine oil to operate the injectors. If you listen to that shrill Bill Hewitt from Powerstroke Help, you'll think Archoil could actually solve the North Korean missile problem or the China Trade deal. However, on HEUI engines like the 7.3L or 6.0L, perhaps it has some redeeming value reducing stiction or cleaning deposits. On a modern engine like the 6.7L Ford, it is snake oil. Another theory is that maybe additives and oil changes cause improvements to older, high-mile or high hour engines more than they would do on a newer engine.

Cylinder deactivation isn't new...GM has had it since 2007 on the 5.3L engine. It is also responsible for thousands of 5.3L engines of the 2007-2013 vintage to consume excess oil. The current Dynamic Skip Fire is much more complex than the original 2007 engine, which could run on 4 or 8 cylinders. The new system can run on as few as one cylinders.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Snake oil maybe and I don't know who Bill Hewitt is. All I know it, Archoil made a big difference in the way my 97 PSD runs and my mileage increased 3 mpg and opening it up, I can see the visible difference in how clean the overhead is, all good with me. That 3 mpg isn't a fantasy number. I penciled it out.

Being retired from a Freightliner dealership I'm very familiar with diesel engines. I spun wrenches for a lot of years.

My only comment about GM and their supposedly new fangled select fire system is, the more complex you make an engine with components sourced from lowest bidder suppliers, the more chance you have of issues. I'm not and never have been a GM fan. My wife wanted a Burb so she bought one. My only task is maintaining it. Thing has so many do dads on it I really despise it but I'm 'stuck' with it so it is what it is. The best and most reliable engines are the ones devoid of do dads. How it plays.

I will be curious as to what my gallons per hour usage is on the M9's next season, something I've never looked at but will and if Bulldog's claims hold water, I'll switch to Amsoil but and I say but the GPH usage has to offset the cost per gallon.

I do oil analysis (spectroscopic) all the time. I'm a firm believer in tracking engine dynamics with oil analysis. None of my engines have ever shown abnormally high metals contamination or cross coolant contamination and my TBN numbers are always good.

Snake oil and elixirs are mostly a 'feel good' for the purchaser and I don't buy into hype, never have. If the real world figures substantiate the elixir, I'll use it. If not, I won't.

One thing that both Bulldog and I ascribe to with diesel engines is, keep it simple. Why neither one of us will ever own a Tier 4 final engine for ag use. Neither of us want the pollution hardware or the software either and my 7.3 is completely devoid of an 'pollution controls' and that includes reburning of crankcase blowby. I have a road draft tube. Deleted the reburn years ago. All that does is carbon up the drive wheel on the turbocharger.

Until next year then....

 

[SidecarFlip]

"Cylinder deactivation isn't new...GM has had it since 2007 on the 5.3L engine. It is also responsible for thousands of 5.3L engines of the 2007-2013 vintage to consume excess oil. The current Dynamic Skip Fire is much more complex than the original 2007 engine, which could run on 4 or 8 cylinders. The new system can run on as few as one cylinders."

Therein lies the issue with me. One word, complex. Complex and lowest bidder supplied components are a sure recipe for issues down the road.

All engines by their nature consume oil. Some more than others. When someone tells me 'My engine don't use a drop between changes', I don't question their wisdom, I just chuckle because I understand he mechanics and I know it does.

My wife's Burb uses oil, about a quart every 2500 miles. Not a deal breaker for me. I just add a quart between changes. I'm in 'charge of taking care of it'. Have drum of 5-40 anyway. If it has to do with the cylinder deactivation, so be it. I'm not concerned. Lube oil (Amsoil or whatever) is the cheapest thing you'll ever replace in a motor.

 

[troverman]

I enjoy working on vehicles and machinery. I've spent a lot of my life doing it, starting with watching my dad fix our cars when I was very young, to fixing my own vehicles once I could drive, and now fixing my landscaping business equipment.

I think it's great you're running an old body style Ford with a 7.3L in it. Great engine. My preference is the 6.0L which most people hated. They can be made bulletproof, and I love the way they sound.

I'm not a GM fan at all, but I do have a GMC 3500 dump truck with the 6.0L gas V8 in it. That engine is very simple and it has been good for the 130k miles or so it has on it now. No cylinder deactivation. One camshaft, pushrods, two valves per cylinder. Simple to work on, lots of room in the engine bay.

My personal truck right now is a 2018 RAM 3500 dually with the Cummins 6.7L and the 6-speed manual trans. I bought it so I could have a stick shift truck before they were gone (they are now gone as of this year).

I like simple too, but once you peel back the layer of complexity added by DPF/EGR/SCR systems, what's underneath it still pretty simple. I don't run big Kubotas like you, but my MX has a DPF and cooled EGR on it, with common rail electronic fuel injection. It is smooth as silk but underneath it's the same basic 4-cylinder diesel Kubota has run for years.

I also just bought an L2501 this year - small landscaping tractor. I love it because there are basically no electronics, and none on the engine. Direct injection, but mechanical. Still smells like diesel out the exhaust.

Anyway, I could go on about engines and equipment all day with you, but I generally agree simpler is better. Will be interested to see what you find with the amsoil.

 

[Bulldog]

With all due respect, if that truly was the case, every manufacturer on the planet would be insisting their vehicles only used Amsoil, don't you think? With all the complicated, expensive things that are done to gain only a tenth of an mpg here and there, getting +3mpg merely by using Amsoil would be pretty easy and obvious, no?

GM just introduced "Dynamic Skip Fire" on their 5.3L V8 engines...it can shut down any combination of cylinders and involves very complex lifters, oil passageways, electronics, and sensors. RAM has a motorized air dam which extends down at highway speed and back up at slow speeds to improve mpg. Of course, these strategies are only giving minute fuel gains.

I don't believe any manufacturer "recommends" Amsoil, despite the fact that many manufacturers DO recommend some other brand of oil, such as Castrol or Mobil.

Just like Judge Judy says "If it's too good to be true...it probably is."

No, I don't think they would. Most all vehicles now days are basically disposable. Why would they want you to use something that would extend life? Why would they want you to use something that would save gas?

If it last longer they don't get to sell you another one. If it burns less fuel that's less money spent at the station. These corporations don't care about your money, only theirs. Truth be known they don't want or hope you don't find out about a product like Amsoil.

Kind of like Mobil advertising this annual oil change like it's the greatest thing ever.

Amsoil did that in 1972. First in synthetics isn't just a slogan, it's a fact. They aren't just a industry leader, they're a founder.

I'm not trying to sell you anything so I have nothing to gain. All I'm doing is passing on information from my personal experience. I didn't believe what I heard either but was open minded enough to try a new product. I compared it to what I was using and Amsoil won every time.

Don't know anything else to say but try it for yourself just like I did.

 

[Bulldog]

Having identical tractors and doing the same tasks should make for an interesting comparison.

It'll be interesting to see the difference.

Don't know if there's any point to putting it on here though. Seems like anything lubricant related that isn't sold at Walmart can't possible work.

It's a shame we live so far apart. I'd be glad to have the help. Other than hauling what I baled today all I lack doing is clean everything up and put it away for the winter. 2019 hay season is in the books. Not hardly as good as last year but somewhere between 2500 and 3000 rolls, not to bad I guess.

 

[Bulldog]

With all due respect, didn't you say a liquid cooled engine runs cooler with Amsoil as well? Far fetched claims IMO.

The only difference OP will see is money savings.

Not cooler as in actually running colder that the thermostat will allow.

I'm talking about in the field with trash covering your radiator screen. It will run cooler because Amsoil will dissipate heat better than most other oil do.

Far fetched claims?

My question to you is this, have you tried Amsoil?

If not how can you have a valid opinion about a product that you've never used?

 

[SidecarFlip]

It'll be interesting to see the difference.

Don't know if there's any point to putting it on here though. Seems like anything lubricant related that isn't sold at Walmart can't possible work.

It's a shame we live so far apart. I'd be glad to have the help. Other than hauling what I baled today all I lack doing is clean everything up and put it away for the winter. 2019 hay season is in the books. Not hardly as good as last year but somewhere between 2500 and 3000 rolls, not to bad I guess.

This winter is spend money on equipment winter. The gathering wheel kit for the baler came in ($1600.00) for that, have to pick that up at the NH dealer and the rake I haven't bought yet but will before next season. The Kubota rotary is $14,000 bucks. I agonized over the gathering wheel kit for a while now and decided to get it. Seems like my pickup is never wide enough. Have to get a couple rolls of 52 over the edge net too. Think I told you I sold the H&S for exactly what I paid for it 18 years ago. No depreciation.

Everything is blown off, greased and in the barn, fluids topped off and ready for next year. For me, all that remains is chopping the perimeters of the fields, then I can put the chopper away too. Plow goes on the cab tractor for snow removal and the open station goes to my dealer to get the overhead run, a front crank seal replaced and the upper left planetary bushing renewed. Could do the last 2 myself but running the overhead on an M9 is a bit beyond me.

Next year I'll put the pencil to fuel usage and see where I'm at. Until then...

 

[dlundblad]

Not cooler as in actually running colder that the thermostat will allow.

I'm talking about in the field with trash covering your radiator screen. It will run cooler because Amsoil will dissipate heat better than most other oil do.

Far fetched claims?

My question to you is this, have you tried Amsoil?

If not how can you have a valid opinion about a product that you've never used?

My G5200 that I use for mowing holds 3.2ish quarts and gets very hot in the summer months while mowing. The cooling system is up to date maintenance wise and I keep the screen cleaned at all times.

Tell me what Amsoil to try and I will try to find it for my G and report back next July/ August Is this fair?

*$50 a gallon for 15w40 on eBay plus $15 shipping. Ouch.. This is the only issue I have with the brand, but I guess I haven’t tried it yet either.

 

[SidecarFlip]

"*$50 a gallon for 15w40 on eBay plus $15 shipping. Ouch.. This is the only issue I have with the brand, but I guess I haven’t tried it yet either"

Pizz on Flea Bay. Buy direct from Amsoil, they do have a website and cart on it. You need to look a bit farther on the Net.

 

[Bulldog]

This winter is spend money on equipment winter. The gathering wheel kit for the baler came in ($1600.00) for that, have to pick that up at the NH dealer and the rake I haven't bought yet but will before next season. The Kubota rotary is $14,000 bucks. I agonized over the gathering wheel kit for a while now and decided to get it. Seems like my pickup is never wide enough. Have to get a couple rolls of 52 over the edge net too. Think I told you I sold the H&S for exactly what I paid for it 18 years ago. No depreciation.

Everything is blown off, greased and in the barn, fluids topped off and ready for next year. For me, all that remains is chopping the perimeters of the fields, then I can put the chopper away too. Plow goes on the cab tractor for snow removal and the open station goes to my dealer to get the overhead run, a front crank seal replaced and the upper left planetary bushing renewed. Could do the last 2 myself but running the overhead on an M9 is a bit beyond me.

Next year I'll put the pencil to fuel usage and see where I'm at. Until then...

I need to put new hay saver wheels on my baler to. Mine are just simply worn out but it's just about $250 to replace them. One on the left side looks like it's on meth, only has 2 teeth left.

Haven't even started to clean my stuff yet but just finished baling Friday afternoon. Got all my hay hauled out and put everything my sheds would hold in the dry. Hope I don't need my mower or tedder this year. I stacked hay in the front of that shed and blocked them both it. Seems like I never have enough room.

 

[D2Cat]

Bulldog, that's funny! "... looks like it's on meth, only has 2 teeth left."

I've never imagined a baler on meth!!! But I get the picture.

 

[Bulldog]

My G5200 that I use for mowing holds 3.2ish quarts and gets very hot in the summer months while mowing. The cooling system is up to date maintenance wise and I keep the screen cleaned at all times.

Tell me what Amsoil to try and I will try to find it for my G and report back next July/ August Is this fair?

*$50 a gallon for 15w40 on eBay plus $15 shipping. Ouch.. This is the only issue I have with the brand, but I guess I haven’t tried it yet either.

I use the 10w30 small engine oil in my lawn mower. ASE1G-EA is the number for a gallon jug and dealer cost is $27.40. To be honest I don't use this mower often because for one I hate it and two I normally cut with my tractor instead. But when it's used is during hay season when the tractor is tied up so it's hot for sure. I've never had any issue with the engine over heating.

This oil is specially formulated for use in small engines such as mower, pressure washers, ect… I think it's a good choice for you but please read the specs and make sure it meets your engine requirements.

 

[Bulldog]

Bulldog, that's funny! .

I do what I can buddy.

My first thought was something along the lines of a third cousin from Alabama but figured the meth comment would get my point across.

 

[Newlyme]

T6 works great, as you can see from many satisfied users. Amsoil is fine, but no better. It just costs more.

I use T6 in my 2017 Ford Powerstroke and my 2018 RAM Cummins, and my DPF-equipped Kubota diesel. Have used it for years in previous trucks...no issues, no smell, same fuel economy as any other oil.

I use the T6 in my 2006 VW Jetta TDI, 195k miles runs great no DPF.
On my VW TDI’s that have DPF’s, they require special Low Ash motor oil.
Does Kubota have the same requirement, (specific oil), for their DPF equipped tractors to help slow down the plugging up of the DPF? As Flip said, and I agree, all engines burn oil.

 

[dlundblad]

I found some diesel 15w40 oil, but by the time shipping was factored in, I was at $45 for 1 gallon. That buys a lot of T6!

I can***8217;t justify spending this. I apologize.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I need to put new hay saver wheels on my baler to. Mine are just simply worn out but it's just about $250 to replace them. One on the left side looks like it's on meth, only has 2 teeth left.

Haven't even started to clean my stuff yet but just finished baling Friday afternoon. Got all my hay hauled out and put everything my sheds would hold in the dry. Hope I don't need my mower or tedder this year. I stacked hay in the front of that shed and blocked them both it. Seems like I never have enough room.

Time for a Cleaspan Truss arch building like I have. Per square foot cost is about 1/4 of a pole structure and my wife and I erected ours (with the help of an M9 and loader). Ours has been up over 15 years now with no issues whatsoever. 15 year warranty on the cover but I'd say 20-25 at least.

Everything goes in ours, hay, equipment, tractors and cats....

On a different note, life expectancy on the wheels is what? Mine is expensive because I didn't option the baler with them so I'm adding them now. In retrospect I should have but didn't.

 

[Bulldog]

On a different note, life expectancy on the wheels is what? Mine is expensive because I didn't option the baler with them so I'm adding them now. In retrospect I should have but didn't.

Flip, my wheels are factory (1989 model) but it didn't hardly get used by original owner. He only baled about 400 bales with it in 5 or 6 years. Second owner only did about 800. Can't remember when I bought it but I'd guess about 12 years ago and both wheels are shot now. I'd guessing the amount of ground pressure will have a lot to do with life span but set properly I would say 10 - 15 years wouldn't be out of the question at all.

I bale with and without them depending on the baler I'm using. Hands down the wheels are a great option and make a huge difference. A mega wide pickup might not need them as bad but they're about a must without that if you want all the hay. I really like them when I cut into the side of a windrow. Does just like a rake and stuffs it in the pickup instead of dragging it under.