Does a Die work backward

[coachgeo]

As in Tap and Die...... not rising one from the dead.

as in if one has a bolt to shorten (sawzall) and sometimes that buggers threads on the end.... what if you put the correct die on it first..... cut off bolt to size..... then ran the die off backward to clean up the thread. Would keep all the threads lined up that way.

 

[nbryan]

Should work but suggest putting on the die bit backwards so the cutting side faces the cut end when removing.

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[nbryan]

Actually a good idea I may use sometime. Thanks!

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[Lil Foot]

That will work, but if I need to do that, I just run the die on backwards first, then it has the cutting edges in the right direction as you run the die off the cut off end of the bolt. And of course use a file or grinder to chamfer the cut off end before running the die off.

 

[bcp]

I just use a nut, not a die. It has always worked.

Bruce

 

[BAP]

I just use a nut, not a die. It has always worked.

Bruce

X2 in that.

 

[Lil Foot]

I just use a nut, not a die. It has always worked.
Bruce

Usually does, just a matter of how much the threads get distorted in the cut process.
Hacksaw, nut works great; abrasive cutoff saw, a little less great; chopped with a bolt cutter, not so much.
Bolt (or all thread) material has a lot to do with it also. Hard, quality material usually cuts cleaner and with less distortion than cheap, soft, gummy material.
Of course, a metal lathe works pretty well also.

 

[bird dogger]

As in Tap and Die...... not rising one from the dead.

what if you put the correct die on it first..... cut off bolt to size..... then ran the die off backward to clean up the thread. Would keep all the threads lined up that way.

Running a die backwards does work but the die's teeth are much more susceptible to chipping or breaking. Maybe not so much in your application unless the cut really buggers up the end threads. As mentioned, spinning on a nut first works most times. You can also use "thread chasers" meant to clean up threads that have become dinged, etc.

One simple way that works well is to spin on a sacrificial nut first. Then cut your bolt. Follow that up by running the cut end with the nut against a belt sander to sand the bolt's threads smooth against the nut. After removing the nut you can lightly touch up/bevel the cut edge with the belt sander or a file.

 

[chim]

As mentioned, running a nut on first works fine. It depends on the size of the threaded bolt/allthread and the application. At work we cut thousands of pieces of 1/4" through 1/2" allthread on bandsaws for conduit and pipe hangers and do nothing. Larger diameter threads tend to not be as fussy.

Most electricians have cutters for #6 thru #10 machine screws something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Stripping-Cutter-8-Inch-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=asc_df_B000JNNWQ2/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584276296708160&psc=1

For some applications where the item will be disassembled and reassembled, I'll cut with whatever tool is handy and grind a bevel on the end to get a nice starter thread and get rid of sharp edges. Best grind in the direction from the outside towards center so the material being ground away doesn't deform the threads.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Just use a nut and a bit of oil to help clean out any burrs. Maybe touch the bolt up with file. Save the Die for cutting as designed.

 

[Howling]

Like others I have always used a nut to clean up threads after a cut.

If you want more toys:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhaZ9muY6jU

 

[twomany]

I wonder how that cordless tool holds up to Grade 8 bolts? ;-)

 

[chim]

We use mostly "yellow" tools at work and have a few of the DeWalt cutters. They are used for cutting allthread. They are good for 1/4-1/2" mild steel and max 3/8" SS. Primary use is trimming allthread on trapeze hangers. Our work is electrical and HVAC construction and we don't have a need to trim Grade 8.

 

[BruceP]

I agree with using a nut or putting the die on backwards so it will cut as it is removed.

I also suggest cutting threaded-components with a CUT_OFF wheel. There is MUCH less risk of disturbing the threads with a cut-off wheel.

If the threads do get buggered.... simply use bench-grinder to LIGHTLY touch up the circumference (of the end) of the threaded-component... a grinder is less likely turn over the threads than a saw.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I usually thread TWO nuts onto the bolt, lock them at the 'cutting' spot,hold in vice, use thin blade in angle grinder. The hold bolt by head, unscrew both nuts, maybe 'ouchup' the trheads on a buffing wheel, maybe.

 

[dave86]

Yes, you can do the same with a nut.

 

[Orange4X4]

1/4 -20 or bigger I've taken a grade 8 nut and used a triangle file & cut slots in the nut threads in three places and used as a re-threader when not had anything else.

 

[Tim Horton]

After many years in tool and die machine shops, custom fasteners having been one of my specialties.

It has been my experience you would have better results using
"thread repairing dies"

They are relatively inexpensive all considered, and if you have the volume of work for a tool like that, well worth the price.

Thread cutting dies are well suited for what they are intended, but too fragile for other uses.

One example....
https://www.mcmaster.com/thread-restoring-dies