Opinions please

[SDT]

Why do you think that? I have a 3 point and it is fantastic. A 3 point keeps the noise, the flying grass away from the operator and a bonus is no wind rows because of the wide rear discharge. I can't see a comparison between MMM and 3 point other than they both cut grass.

Two obvious differences requiring no explanation are maneuverability and storage space.

The OP complains of poor cut quality in the front wheel tracks. Though we do not yet know the reason(s) for this, it is reasonable to assume that this anomaly will not be improved when both front and rear tires travel over the grass before cutting.

SDT

 

[SDT]

You have to love a MMM to use one! They restrict all functions of your tractor when it's under there, other than mowing.

i agree with Missouribound, a mower in the back has the benefits he listed, but you also have the choice of various types of rear mowers, and all can be removed easily and quickly.

I have a 7' flail I use at the farm and it will mow so nice you'd think it was done with something REAL fancy.

Perhaps my practices are different than that of most but, except for rare occasions, I mount/dismount my mowers twice each year. I remove FELs and mount mowers (whether MMM or three point mounted) in the spring and remove mowers and mount FELs, back blades, etc., in the fall.

I can mount or remove the MMMs used with my B1750 and sometimes B3350 in about 15 minutes each. It takes about 10 minutes to mount my three point mounted rotary cutters (one takes about 30 minutes), a trivial time savings. I spend considerably more time mounting/removing front weights on my larger tractors (none needed with MMM on B1750).

Use of a three point mounted finish mower on my B1750 would require front weights in some of the areas that I mow. Mounting/dismounting the weights would add 15-20 minutes to the changeover time.

SDT

 

[Missouribound]

My 60" 3 point on my B2320 does make the front end light when transporting it raised. But when it is on the ground it is quite stable. If I drove around with it up in the air I would benefit from front weights. I found that I really do not need them since I just roll it where I want to use it. For the short distances I have to raise it I have no control problem.
Mine comes off after every use since I store the tractor in the garage for now until I build an outbuilding for it and the implements. I would be surprised if it took 3 minutes to install....and maybe 2 to take off.
I can see how a MMM would be easier to trim with. But I trim with a weed eater or a lawn tractor most of the time. When you mount the 3 point there is a bit of slack in the lower arms so if you DO get too close to a tree, for example the deck will swing around it. I do not know how the MMM mounts but I suspect there isn't too much give to allow that "swing". One thing you can do with a 3 point is back it up under tree branches to get close to the trunk. A MMM won't allow that if you have low hanging branches.
I know that the MMM vs RFM is a touchy subject for many. I stand by my preference for the mentioned reasons; No wind rows, noise behind and no grass blown in my face.

 

[SDT]

My 60" 3 point on my B2320 does make the front end light when transporting it raised. But when it is on the ground it is quite stable. If I drove around with it up in the air I would benefit from front weights. I found that I really do not need them since I just roll it where I want to use it. For the short distances I have to raise it I have no control problem.
Mine comes off after every use since I store the tractor in the garage for now until I build an outbuilding for it and the implements. I would be surprised if it took 3 minutes to install....and maybe 2 to take off.
I can see how a MMM would be easier to trim with. But I trim with a weed eater or a lawn tractor most of the time. When you mount the 3 point there is a bit of slack in the lower arms so if you DO get too close to a tree, for example the deck will swing around it. I do not know how the MMM mounts but I suspect there isn't too much give to allow that "swing". One thing you can do with a 3 point is back it up under tree branches to get close to the trunk. A MMM won't allow that if you have low hanging branches.
I know that the MMM vs RFM is a touchy subject for many. I stand by my preference for the mentioned reasons; No wind rows, noise behind and no grass blown in my face.

I have neither need nor desire to change your preference.

You asked. I told you.

SDT

 

[Titan17]

Thanks for the replies. I'd like a zero turn. Have to add on again to keep it inside.

Not sure if you can see by the photos, but the first photo is tonight's mowing. The photo over the hood is 6 days of growth. The darker is normal wheel tracks and is about an inch higher than between.

I'm going to remove the deck this weekend and try to ascertain if all three spindles are true to each other.

Wish my yard looked that good!!!
Maybe it's your tender grass???
My BX does a great job on my farm property with 3 acres of crappy grass and a crappy job on my 1/2 acre of beautiful, soft, well watered blue grass/clover mix.
54" mmm with stock, sharp blades.

 

[KennysNewFarm]

Looks to me like the blades are bent causing the fluctuations in the grass. Highly recommend going to Kubota and buying the original OEM blades for this machine if you don not feel like buying a zero turn. A zero turn would definitely make your yard look amazing. They stripe nice and you can run all different patterns quickly.

 

[08quadram]

Blades are not bent. I am going to check to verify that all three spindles are equal in height.

 

[Nicfin36]

This is apples and oranges most likely, but my old Husqvarna mower started cutting weirdly last year. It has 3 blades and the middle blade was cutting much lower and would scalp the ground unless I mowed with the deck raised higher than usual.

Well, it turns out, some welds on a bracket that lifts the deck were breaking loose and the remaining welds finally broke free a couple of weeks ago. After realizing the issue, I was able to weld it back and it cuts nice and level again. Why that made my middle blade cut lower I cant say for sure. It is a 10 gauge steel deck, but there must have been enough stress when the welds initially started breaking loose to tweak the angle of the middle blade.