Refurbish Kubota L245DT

[brunswick000]

New problem. A) I don't have a 46mm deep socket, B) take a look at the front pto. There is a flange on there and a hefty amount of weld in front of the nut. Flange may even be welded on.

Now what?? Need to get the gear cover off so I'm not really sure what to do about it.



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[DsBota]

Wow not sure how your going to take that off! Where about in Ontario are you?

 

[brunswick000]

Wow not sure how your going to take that off! Where about in Ontario are you?

Yeah not too sure either. I'm trying to think about whether or not I'm going to need the front pto anytime soon, and I don't think so. I might chop, chop it at the weld and repair it later. Priority is too make sure it works.... now.

And I'm located just outside Kingston.

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[MagKarl]

How sure are you that it actually needs to come apart? What diagnostic work did you do to decide the motor needed rebuilt? This started as a head gasket and an oil leak didn't it?

 

[brunswick000]

How sure are you that it actually needs to come apart? What diagnostic work did you do to decide the motor needed rebuilt? This started as a head gasket and an oil leak didn't it?

Yup. However I've found that oil is seeping from just about everywhere. Plus given that I have it torn apart so much right now, it would be a real pain to reassemble only to later realize the oil in the coolant was caused by something in the gear case. Which, needs to have that nut removed in order to take it off. Id be gambling by just slapping it back together, and this tractor needs to be reliable.

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[fj40dave]

Two options:

1. Make one like I did - taking a 46mm socket and adding a section of square tube

2. Send me your address in a "private message" and I'll send mine to you as a loaner

 

[brunswick000]

Two options:

1. Make one like I did - taking a 46mm socket and adding a section of square tube

2. Send me your address in a "private message" and I'll send mine to you as a loaner

Wow, as nice a gesture as that is, I think it would cost more for you to send it here, and me to send it back then it would for me to have someone make one. I searched Allyn, WA and your all the way on the west coast!

And its not the socket im concerned about. Its the large amount of weld in front of it. Why someone would do that I do not know.

 

[brunswick000]

So I'm not going to pull the gear cover off. Too much trouble at this point, especially in regards to the weld on the crank shaft. Ordered all the necessary parts. Should be here Wednesday, and ill have the head back Thursday.

I would like to know what, if anything, I can use to clean the top of the block and maybe the top of the pistons. There is a bit of crud on their tops. Can I scrape this off gingerly with a gasket scraper? Or could I use a nylon cup on the end of my drill? Also, can I use brake cleaner / nylon cup to clean the top of the block itself?

I'm sure the best way would be to dissassemble it all and take it into the shop.....work with me here. What would be my best option?

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[brunswick000]

Progress report here. I got the engine all back together. Thanks fj40dave for your help in regards to setting the valve lash. It looks good. I worked nights last night and while I was there I cleaned up the pressure plate so I could put the clutch back on and bolt the engine back up today.

He in is where the problem occurred. Got the clutch all back on. Began tightening the bolts as per the recommended specs and then one of the two longer bolts snapped off inside the flywheel. The added problem to this is that the threads on this bolt begin about 1/4" below the head...so its not only stuck, but recessed from the face of the flywheel. And its torqued in there This tractor will be the death of me.

Does anyone know have any recommendations? Ive heard of ezouts but a lot of people curse those things. Short of drilling it out and re-tapping im at a loss. Dang Nabbit! And that is not what im really saying!

 

[Toyboy]

Number 1, there is no torque without the bolt head unless you've bottomed out the bolt. If the threads are clean you may be able to use a small pick and just unscrew it. Put a little wd40 or something similar to help it rotate.

 

[brunswick000]

Number 1, there is no torque without the bolt head unless you've bottomed out the bolt. If the threads are clean you may be able to use a small pick and just unscrew it. Put a little wd40 or something similar to help it rotate.

Although that sounds painfully tedious I will try it tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

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[Toyboy]

If it moves it's not as bad as you think. Even a very small screwdriver may work. Just try to locate a spot on the edge that you can get some leverage on and just keep working it around. Without actually seeing it, that's what I would try if it were mine.

 

[brunswick000]

Got it out with a bolt extractor. Which, was easier than finding a replacement bolt. Dang metric fine thread! Should have the engine back on by tomorrow night. Yippie!

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[brunswick000]

I should hopefully have the tractor done by the end of this week. I have another question for anyone who may be following this thread. Its in regards to the hour meter cable. The old one is non functional. I have a new one, but the cab makes it impossible to get at the dash end to remove old / install new. Can I just cap the hour meter port with something? I cant see how it would be a problem, other than the hour meter not functioning, which it already does not anyway.

Just trying to get this thing working as quickly as possible. Then ill tackle all the little things one at a time.

Thanks for any help.

 

[brunswick000]

So. I finally got the tractor all back together. I have pics but im at work so ill post them tomorrow. I managed to get the hour meter on with a good deal of muttering and swearing.

New problem. All fluids in, everything hooked up.....turn key.....nothing. Absolutely zip. It has to be the wiring. The starter and alternator are both new. The battery is new and I tested it. The wiring that is on the tractor is a mess to say the least. All jimmied up and their condition is very poor.

My question is, and I hope others can help, is about a minimal rewire. What is the absolute minimum wiring I need to get the tractor to start? No lights, no nothing other than...turn key....ignition.....tractor starts. I have the wiring diagram but I am a novice at this stuff. I really need some help here people.

Please if anyone can give me a hand with this it would be sincerely appreciated.

 

[fj40dave]

Well.....the first thing I always look at with electrical is the ground.

Would the pictures taken at the onset of this project help at all......reference material for the old vs new wiring look?

Other than that....I would get a schematic, and start running wires as outlined.

(I hate electrical issues.....I'll take a blown head gasket, oil leak, flat tire, or missing widget over electrical any time!)

 

[brunswick000]

I neglected to take pics at onset since I new the wiring was crap. I had planned on a complete rewire, which I would still like to do, but I just don't have time to mess around taking the cab off to do it. There is just a mess of stuff all tied in together and it makes it impossible to know what its what. Plus all the existing wires are painted and falling apart.

I drew a pic based on the schematic of what I think needs to be done. No laughing at the pic If this is enough to get it to start then I can at least operate the thing and pick away at the rest one bit at a time.



The one part I am unsure of is the coupler on the alternator. Not sure what the letters indicate. Also is it possible that the little nob coming off next to the couple is live or intended for the ground? I ask because i'm not sure where the power "live" wire goes from the starter to the alternator unless it is in that coupler.

Any suggestions?

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[LT1Pat]

When I was rebuilding my L245DT I would just put a screwdriver across the positive wire going to the starter and the solenoid. This will make the tractor start without any wiring hooked up besides the power feeding the starter. The tractor didn't want to start for a while and I had to open the air bleeder on the injection pump itself for it to finally prime.

 

[brunswick000]

Success! Ok, after finally solving the starter issue, and "jimmy-ing" up the wiring I finally got to start the tractor today.

Initial problem was air in the fuel lines at the injectors. Not a huge deal, and it was solved easily. When it finally started there was an awful lot of smoke involved from the exhaust. I didn't give it much thought as it was the first time being started after being torn to pieces. However, after turning it off and letting it sit for a while, and then restarting it blew smoke again. White smoke to be specific. It only does it at start up and then subsides right away. Anyone think its an issue?

Other than that I have to say im pleased with its performance. Set straight out and graded the lane-way. Apparently it takes practice. So glad i replaced the governor and starter springs. It idles much better now. Prior to replacement it would pretty much stall if I wasn't on the throttle.

Only things left are the cab, resetting the decompression cable, wiring new headlights (luckily I have aux cab lights), and in the spring a complete rewire, and rattle can paint job.

Thanks to everyone who helped with suggestions and tips.