New to tractors, looking at a BX, & need advice!

[BAP]

You would have a hard time keeping your front end on the ground with a 60” brush mower on a BX. Because the mowers are long, there is a lot of weight way back giving a lot of leverage. Power wise, you could run it, but stability wise it could get pretty hairy, pretty fast.

 

[Cerviperus]

Ok,

Seriously, you would not want a 60" rotary hanging off the back of any BX. They are too heavy and too long to fool with in the woods.

Check out a properly sized flail mower. You could do up to a 54" flail (I say this because you're not cutting waist high weeds). They are much shorter in length and lighter weight than a rotary cutter. You could likely handle a flail without the loader attached either. The best part is that they also cut grass, therefore, you could eliminate the MMM all together.

I have one and they are pretty slick. https://betstco.com/flail-mowers/

Have you used the flails from Bestco? Assuming I stay with a 26hp, I wonder if I would need the standard, medium, or heavy duty? I wouldn't mind staying in the 48" range... I'm never in a hurry when I mow anyway.

 

[dirtydeed]

Have you used the flails from Bestco? Assuming I stay with a 26hp, I wonder if I would need the standard, medium, or heavy duty? I wouldn't mind staying in the 48" range... I'm never in a hurry when I mow anyway.

Yes. I have the FHM EFG-135. This is a medium duty flail with hammers. I specifically chose the hammers because they will cut both brush (up to around 2" diameter) and grass.

No problems with the unit as yet although I haven't really used it all that hard but for cutting approx 5 acres of waist/hood height weeds.

I'm sure there are better units, but the FHM from Betstco was very reasonably priced with free shipping as well.

here's a few pics of mine with the hammers.

 

[Cerviperus]

Good info. Thanks.

This whole process has me so frustrated, and it's mostly my inexperience with tractors as a whole. I know the results I want, just not entirely sure how to get there.

 

[dalola]

Lot's of solid advice here, but it's up to you (OP) to apply to your situation.

Here are my thoughts, worth exactly what you paid for them....

Budget & size are the two main limiting factors in your situation, I believe. If you can afford the biggest (B series) tractor that might work, then check the budget box. Anything you ultimately pick can be purchased. Next is size. If you don't have a need for a smaller (think BX) tractor, always go bigger. However, some of us actually need/prefer the small size of a BX. Either for narrow trails, tight quarters, impact on turf, etc.. If none of these apply, go bigger.

Here is my situation, you can compare what's relevant for yours. I maintain two properties 100 miles apart. One is a 3 acre home/residence, one is a 9 acre camp with a small off-grid cabin. I have a commercial ZTR for mowing the 3 acre residence, which is all turf grass. I have the BX & various attachments for everything else. Obviously, transportability is a factor (advantage BX). I also prefer the smaller footprint for trails, and the heavily wooded property, along with storage space & general maneuverability. So far, the BX has done everything I've asked of it, and I am completely satisfied. While some jobs I could have gotten done faster with a bigger rig, I don't want to lose the versatility I enjoy with the smaller BX.

But again, I will say, if you don't think the smaller size is an advantage for what you're doing, move up to the bigger size. More capacity is usually not a bad thing.

Good luck!

 

[dirtydeed]

Good info. Thanks.

This whole process has me so frustrated, and it's mostly my inexperience with tractors as a whole. I know the results I want, just not entirely sure how to get there.

Relax. OTT will get you there. There are many youtube videos "messick's" in particular are quite informative. Be sure to check them out.

Regarding the flail mower...one thing that isn't talked about is that a flail mower should only be used when traveling in a forward direction. Unlike a rotary cutter that has no issues cutting while backing up under trees etc. a flail mower can wrap material around the drum when backing up. You'd want to avoid that. So, if you foresee yourself needing to cut under stuff, a flail would not be a good option for you. They also site much tighter to the tractor, so they don't have the reach or swing of a rotary when turning.

 

[Cerviperus]

Relax. OTT will get you there. There are many youtube videos "messick's" in particular are quite informative. Be sure to check them out.

Regarding the flail mower...one thing that isn't talked about is that a flail mower should only be used when traveling in a forward direction. Unlike a rotary cutter that has no issues cutting while backing up under trees etc. a flail mower can wrap material around the drum when backing up. You'd want to avoid that. So, if you foresee yourself needing to cut under stuff, a flail would not be a good option for you. They also site much tighter to the tractor, so they don't have the reach or swing of a rotary when turning.

My wife is tired of hearing Messick's theme song if that tells you anything! lol

Again, thanks for the info on the flails. I was curious on backing up with the flails, so you beat me to that one. I think that would be something I would use for sure, especially if I do end up with the BX. As has been noted here, it's not a ground clearance monster, so at least in rough areas I would probably work mower first. Once I have a trail cleared (or while maintaining existing ones) I could simply pull it behind. I'm still waiting to hear back what the Land Pride rep says about a RCR1548 behind a BX2680 over the RCR1248. I think I'd much rather go with the heavier cutter.

All said, I think the BX2680 will probably fit the bill better than the 2380 in the long run purely from the PTO HP standpoint. And before the next guy chimes in, yes I know a B2601 would be even better, but I have to draw the line somewhere. As I saw someone else in another post say, I have more time than money. So if a BX will get the jobs I need done, I don't mind them taking a little longer!

 

[Cerviperus]

But again, I will say, if you don't think the smaller size is an advantage for what you're doing, move up to the bigger size. More capacity is usually not a bad thing.

Smaller size is absolutely a consideration. Storage constraints aside, I believe the smaller scale of the BX will definitely fit my mowing needs better, both around the house and on the trails. I'm not at all concerned about the lift capacity "shortcomings" of the BX compared to the B series.

As you said, one can always go bigger, but you don't always have to!

 

[Missouribound]

Have you been able to sit on the BX and the B and drive them around? Getting the feel of them may be a good idea. And speaking of ideas, is there anyone around renting them? Before I bought my B, I sat on a BX and felt it was a little too close to the lawn tractor I had. Granted it has a lot more functionality than the lawn tractor but I felt that a larger wheelbase, larger tires and ground clearance was definitely something I had to consider. Here in the Ozarks....which I often refer to as the Missouri Baja, rocks, ruts and overall rough ground is what I deal with. The larger tractor makes that much more doable.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

just something to consider about 'driveway maintenance'....
The late farmer cross the road always pulled a heavy beam with old tire chains behind it, every Sunday, after church, before lunch and he had the BEST driveway in the couny ! Probably 400' long, plus pads for 'things'. I 'borrowed his idea and use a 6' C-channel and tire chain, cut into 3 sections. Even my 9HP ST12 Garden tractor can pull it around, and around and around, all day long with ease and it makes short work of leveling the gravel parking lot in front of the shop,about 80 x 250' area. The 'trick' is to use it often, a couple passes every week instead of a huge 'restoration', 2-3 times a year.
I also use it to knock down the 1/3 AC garden after discing.
Simple, cheap(free) and effective. Easy to store too !

Jay

 

[Missouribound]

As GreensvilleJay said it is more about maintenance than size of equipment.
Over the years I have seen people use ATV's with pallets, pieces of chain link fence, 4" X 4" lumber and an array of things dragged behind their equipment to smooth or level driveways or even dirt. Consistency is the key.

 

[skeets]

Aside from the land plane, to keep the gravel in the driveway, I found that dragging an OLD steel box spring set works very well again cheap and easy to use

 

[Cerviperus]

When we re-did the driveway last fall, we ran out about 40 tons of CA6 with my buddy's BX1800. We just used the bucket, and didn't even bother with a blade. To smooth everything out, another buddy has an old pallet rack (looks almost like chain link but solid and reinforced) with some chains on it. Threw some cinder blocks on it and ran it around with my ATV while he ran the Kubota.

Did it do the trick? Absolutely. And I think I need to step back and really evaluate my needs. Would a grader scraper be nice to have? Sure. But it's also $1100. I get caught up in the idea of getting everything now (cry once and all that) because to me it makes sense to get it all under the 0% financing. If I'm going to get one, yes, but maybe I don't actually need one. Hmm...

 

[Cerviperus]

Another question: Is the drive-over deck options worth the additional $300? I've seen mention that it may not be compatible with the BXpanded under armor. Any info on that? I don't necessarily mind pulling the deck out the side, but if it makes things even a little easier I don't mind the $300.

EDIT: Found the answer to the under armor question:

A: The Under Armor can not be used with the drive over deck mount installed. It will fit the BX2680 without the drive over deck or if the drive over mount is removed.

 

[michigander]

Drive over deck wise not sure what you will have for clearance on BX , my B I slid it from the side faster then setting up to drive over it. I have no plans of driving over mine for skidding and weight issues. Myself I wouldn't spend the extra on deck , that will almost buy a back blade

 

[John T]

New to tractors, looking at a BX, & need advice!

Another question: Is the drive-over deck options worth the additional $300? I]

When I bought my tractor I did NOT get the drive over deck.

I had no real reason why except it just didn’t seem like a good idea to me.

I’m happy with the decision because removing the regular deck is a piece of cake.

In the following video the Messicks kid has a few comments on them.

.

https://youtu.be/UhY_M20Ep10



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[jkcolo22]

I question whether you really need a flail meowed or bush hog right now (or at all). Anything you can mow with a cub cadet, a BX deck will happily tear through. I moved from a JD 100 series (big box store junk) and I laugh that I even called that thing a “lawn tractor”. Not even in the same league. Same HP, but way different machines. I would caution that you have no idea what implements you will want to add. I never thought I’d take off the BH, and now I own a tiller, a box blade, and a sprayer.

But do watch out for rocks with the MMM mower. Recently had to replace the PTO drive shaft on the mower as I apparently hit a rock and sheared a couple teeth. $500 lesson learned... machine is not bullet proof.

You should also go ahead and get rear remotes. If they have a top n tilt factory option, throw it in for the driveway maintenance. And don’t expect to be a pro at driveway maintenance right out the gate.

Go with the most HP and heaviest machine you can afford. I love my BX25D, but I do wish I had more ground clearance and lifting capacity. I keep thinking about going bigger. Also consider that with a $20k+ machine, you will be more hesitant to thrash it on trails like your cup cadet. Ground clearance will give you much more confidence to do the work you need to do. I’m a staunch defender of the capabilities of the little BX, but the ground clearance really does suck when you are working on anything other than flat ground.


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[PaulL]

I think a land plane would do a better job, but any old thing will work. My old neighbour lent me his levelling bar, which is an old set of 3pt pallet forks with two railway irons welded to it, one at the front, one at the back. Works fine, and was free. He doesn't have a small tractor any more, so he said I can hang on to it. But I don't have a regular use for it, if I did I think I'd look at a land plane.

Drive over deck - I like the B2601 style. It's drive over, but you manually hook it up. I have a BX at the moment, and it's an old BX so it's a pain to turn the wheels. Dragging the deck out sideways doesn't work for me - I don't have enough concrete, and if I do it on the lawn it tears a trench. The B01 style drive over would suit. The BX driveover is fiddly with the little ramps (because the BX front wheels are too small to just drive over), rumour has it those ramps rattle, and it has an auto hook up for the drive shaft that I agree with Neil from Messicks just looks like a problem waiting to happen - when it works it's probably excellent, and when it doesn't work it looks like an hour of cussing trying to get it properly aligned again. On the BX I'd skip the drive over.

Did I see you mention lifting things on the 3ph (pallets?). The B01 lifts twice as much on the 3ph, and it's noticeable. We lifted a bunch of pavers, relevelled, and then relaid them. We put them on pallets as we lifted them so we could move them around. The BX wouldn't lift a very large pallet load - about 6 high, and we couldn't stack all the way to the back of the pallet because too far from the lift point.....it was less than I'd like. The B lifts about 30% more on the FEL too, but it's on the 3ph that I think you'd notice it. It's also noticeably faster if you drive it anywhere (I go down the road sometimes to mow the local reserve, and that's slow on my BX).

 

[Cerviperus]

To answer some of the questions posted by the last couple of you...

Do I need a rotary cutter/flail mower. Yes. That's one of the primary functions I want out of new equipment, whether it's on a tractor or a pull-behind for my ATV. My current trails and feed plot are manageable with my current lawn tractor because I stay on top of them. Most of the time, my wife & son walk the ATV trails ahead of me to clear out sticks & other debris. I also plan to clear out quite a few other areas for trails, an additional feed plot, and general cleanup.

Do I need to use the 3pt to lift pallets? Doubtful. I know someone mentioned using theirs with a "carry all" to haul garden tools around, and that might be something I'd do, but I don't have much in the way of heavy landscaping to do that would require pallets of stone. If I do, it would be just around the house where the tractor is going to be parked anyway.

I think I've convinced myself to go away from the drive over deck for two reasons. 1) I really don't think it's going to save me much in the way of connect/disconnect time. The tractor is going to park in the 3rd stall of my garage with smooth finish concrete. I pull the deck out from under my lawn tractor now with minimal fuss. 2) I think the first thing I'm going to order aftermarket for the thing is the under armor plate from BXpanded to save me some headaches when I'm in the timber. I don't want to have to remove the mower AND the drive over hardware every time I want to use the brush cutter.

I also really want one of the grading scrapers/land planes dang it. I can't get over it for some reason. I think for the moment I'm going to eliminate the drive over deck options and the box blade the salesman was trying to talk me into (my buddy has one less than 1/2 mile away if I need it), and both of those will damn near pay for the scraper.

 

[jkcolo22]

I also really want one of the grading scrapers/land planes dang it. I can't get over it for some reason. I think for the moment I'm going to eliminate the drive over deck options and the box blade the salesman was trying to talk me into (my buddy has one less than 1/2 mile away if I need it), and both of those will damn near pay for the scraper.

I like the land plane concept. I think my box blade is more versatile but the plane would be probably be faster for driveway work. Not sure if they have utility outside of that single use. Have you been to www.everythingattachments.com yet?




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