G3200

[D2Cat]

Found this little pup on Craig's List. Needs some attention but I drained the fuel and dumped some new in. Used a heat gun to warm up the intake manifold for about 25 seconds after bleeding air from the fuel lines and she fired right up. Well, the key doesn't work. It has an elec. fuel pump added on (I think) so I powered the pump and jumped the starter.

The fuel cap was busted. The center was missing, so someone just added another cap into the broken one.

Two Cylinder diesel 399CC. Engine has the power to be in a D11.

 

[skeets]

Looks like a pretty neat little project tractor

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I swear you could go roll with the cows and come out smelling and looking like a beauty queen!

You have such the luck, and also know how to fix them up!

That one's about Pallet size isn't it.

 

[BruceP]

I have G5200 (same tractor with 600cc engine and hydrostatic xMission)

Some comments:

*) That intact mower-deck is GOLD!!! (many of them have long-ago rusted into oblivion) protect it the best you can. I had to spend a summer with a welder to make mine usable.
*) The grease nipple on bottom-center of front axle does double-duty. It lubes both the front-axle-pivot AND the PTO bearings for the mower-deck.
*) The 'safety switches' are notorious for failing thus making starter not crank. I installed a 12v relay to drive the bendix relay DIRECTLY from the battery....the 'safety switches' only need to pick that relay.
*) Do not be afraid to 'glow' the glowplugs for over a minute in freezing weather. (during summer, it is sufficient to just wait for the indicator to glow)
*) The 'steering gear' may be the very weakest part of the machine. The original cheesy design was re-designed by Kubota on later models.

 

[D2Cat]

Bruce, thanks for the tips. I need to look at an Owner's and WSM just to get familiar with the critter.

It looks like a few pins are removed and the deck should slide back and be free of the drive shaft. I'll get it out first just to have room to get to the transmission shaft coupling. The deck is a heavy unit. Needs some obvious repairs like rollers and blades and a couple of areas reinforced with some steel. I may end up removing the radiator and shroud just to get the belt on. There just isn't much room in there!!

I'm pretty sure the previous owner had the bearing on the dynamo seize. He bought a new dynamo and mounted it. At the time the bearings seized it must have destroyed his belt. He purchased the wrong dynamo and when he mounted it it is about 3/8" too far towards the radiator out of line. So he gave up with the challenge of putting a new belt on and getting the dynamo positioned correctly.

The ignition switch has been replace with a cobbled mess. Four keys, but they don't turn! Hopefully, I will find a factory switch.

 

[dlundblad]

Very nice. I'd love to find myself a G3200.

I love me some vintage G's.

 

[cliffboyer]

Was this the one on St. Louis CL this last weekend? I think $450 was asking price.

Never aware there was a G3200, only 4200, 5200 & 6200. I have the G5200. Nice machine....eats grass like nothing you ever seen!

 

[D2Cat]

No Cliff, on the other side of the state, and then into Kansas! I was actually about 6 miles from Coleman's Bonner Springs location.

 

[dlundblad]

I would go through and grease everything you can find. I'm having an issue with the tensioner for the belts between the PTO and the engine. The PO never greased the bracket so as a result, the pivot pin, which is welded to the body, is badly worn out. (The pulley bearings were also worn so we'll see if a swap helps.) Especially grease the driveshaft u joints between the PTO and mower gearbox.

When you change the coolant, don't be like me and take a wrench to the block valve if nothing flows out because it's aluminum and will break. Try a long drill bit first... I did a citric acid flush on both my 5200's after acquiring them and putting them into service and I could definitely tell a difference in cooling.

You'll love it. I can mow most of my 3 acres of grass with about 1.5 gallons of fuel on my 5200.

 

[D2Cat]

I was looking at the mower deck yesterday, and decided it couldn't take too much to get it off. I soon had the hardware off or loose so the deck would/should slide backwards. The splines on the shaft going to the gearbox didn't want to slide. I soaked them inside and out with PB Blaster and we'll see if they give up. May have to remove the pin at the front and take the shaft with u-joints out together. Then clean them up.

 

[dlundblad]

I was looking at the mower deck yesterday, and decided it couldn't take too much to get it off. I soon had the hardware off or loose so the deck would/should slide backwards. The splines on the shaft going to the gearbox didn't want to slide. I soaked them inside and out with PB Blaster and we'll see if they give up. May have to remove the pin at the front and take the shaft with u-joints out together. Then clean them up.

You should be able to slide everything apart shaft wise without removing any pins. Undo the deck hangers and lift arms obviously, as you know.

 

[BruceP]

I would go through and grease everything you can find. I'm having an issue with the tensioner for the belts between the PTO and the engine. The PO never greased the bracket so as a result, the pivot pin, which is welded to the body, is badly worn out. (The pulley bearings were also worn so we'll see if a swap helps.) Especially grease the driveshaft u joints between the PTO and mower gearbox.

Interesting! My G5200 needed that tensionor and pulley replaced too. In my case, it was EATING both belts at the rate of every 6 hours of mowing-time. Fortunately, I found reasonably-priced source for the metric matched-pair of belts. ( https://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/Kubota 66021-25080--kubota-66021-25080-v-belt-set-of-2.html )

 

[dlundblad]

Interesting! My G5200 needed that tensionor and pulley replaced too. In my case, it was EATING both belts at the rate of every 6 hours of mowing-time. Fortunately, I found reasonably-priced source for the metric matched-pair of belts. ( https://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/Kubota 66021-25080--kubota-66021-25080-v-belt-set-of-2.html )

I just bought 4 BX30 sized cogged belts from Belt Palace for $50 shipped. They give a small discount for 4 vs only 2. Not sure on the brand.. they***8217;re just labeled as industrial grade.

They should be in tomorrow.

 

[D2Cat]

Got the deck off. Greased the fittings. Idler arm needs some attention, it's too stiff to move. Ordered new blades and ignition switch. Need to order deck anti scalp rollers.

Working on relocating the dynamo. Got a couple of belts to see which one fits best with the relocation. Oil filter and oil, and this monster will be back to life.

 

[dlundblad]

For those curious, my tensioner pulley swap seems to have worked despite the worn pivot pin. I installed the new belts yesterday and ran the tractor for about an hour in various heights of grass and the belts lived with no sign of excessive wear. I was slightly disappointed though because these belts are just rubber with no wrapping so we'll see how long they last... It's my understanding that the ~$15 Bando BX30 is the same as the $70 Kubota belt. I'll probably try those next.

The verbiage on the PTO spring illustration about spring lengths is a bit confusing as you can clearly tell raw Japanese was translated to English. I currently have the spring tension at about 3" with the PTO on. I also take it to mean the spring is measured from both hook ends.

Anyways, not to hijack OP's thread.. Just figured I should update everyone and as always, feel free to PM me with questions or updates.

 

[D2Cat]

I've still not separated the drive shaft enough to get a belt on. Took the two long bolts out that go into the crankshaft pulley, but I think I need to remove the two bolts at the other end of the shaft to make the room.

 

[dlundblad]

I've still not separated the drive shaft enough to get a belt on. Took the two long bolts out that go into the crankshaft pulley, but I think I need to remove the two bolts at the other end of the shaft to make the room.

Are you talking about the 2 PTO belts?

There's a guard under the bottom pulley that needs removed as well as a longer bolt at 3:00 of said pulley, but other than that, you shouldn't have to remove anything else. All should be 12mm.

BTW, I was wrong on my above post. Just checked the manual and the length of the tension spring (L) is measured from the inner radiuses of both hooks of the spring; not the ends.

1. Engage front PTO lever.
2. Measure tension spring length (L).
3. If L is shorter than 65mm, adjust with the tension clutch cable adjusting nut. L should be 69-73mm.
4. After adjustment tighten nut. When replacing the front PTO belts, L should be 74-76mm (3").

 

[D2Cat]

No, the water pump, dynamo. It has to go around the crankshaft first.

Oh, got it on today. Still have to wire up the new switch, but jumping it....it fired right off after 8-10 revolutions or so with no glow plugs.

 

[dlundblad]

No, the water pump, dynamo. It has to go around the crankshaft first.

Oh, got it on today. Still have to wire up the new switch, but jumping it....it fired right off after 8-10 revolutions or so with no glow plugs.

Gotcha. My apologies.

Yeah I have no good way of replacing that thing without the deck being off. There's 2 bolts at the HST pump and 3 6mm machine screws at the crank between the driveshaft and rubber shock absorber. When everything is loose, I just slide the shaft towards the front and was then able to lower the shaft at the pump and pull back to get it out of the way.