Heavy load LED light bars on B2601

[msmcknight]

Hi guys,

I have a couple of 120w LED light bars that I'd like to put on my tractor -- one facing forward and one rearward.

The issue I have, from what I can tell, is that there are no existing fuse links that would allow for the 20A pull these lights would draw (10A each). My thought is to connect them directly to the battery with a fuse between the battery and the light switches.

I'm new to all of this and am concerned there might be issues with my approach that I'm not aware of. If any of you with experience in this kind of modification have advice, tales of woe, or words of caution, please share.

Thanks in advance to you all,
-Michael

 

[Kennyd4110]

Running from the battery is always best, the factory wiring harnesses are rarely sized to handle much extra load.
But, I would create a new circuit through a 30 amp relay that’s triggered when the key is ON to feed your new lightbars.

 

[boz1989]

I would also check into your charging system, I'm not sure what it's capable of supporting.

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[SidecarFlip]

Don't believe your charging system is capable of that load.

 

[Hodgy]

Running from the battery is always best, the factory wiring harnesses are rarely sized to handle much extra load.
But, I would create a new circuit through a 30 amp relay that’s triggered when the key is ON to feed your new lightbars.

+1 on the 30 amp relay.

You say 120 watt, how many amps do they draw ? That is the real gauge you should use when determining whether your system will support the lights. Quite often the advertised watts are more of a advertising thing rather than a actual figure.


.

 

[msmcknight]

For the amp draw, I just took the watts printed on the product label, at 12v and came up with 10a. I figured that would be worst-case.

As for the charging system handling it. I wondered the same, but the stock breakers for headlights are 10a, the cigarette outlet is 10a and the factory work light is 5a. I made the assumption that I could use all of the factory components at the same time (ie 25a) and since I wouldn't be using those at the same time as my work lights, I thought I'd be ok. Am I missing something? Does anyone happen to know the AMP output of the alternator on a B2601? As long as the tractor is running, would I have a problem with power?

As for the 30a relay... I'm new to all of this and don't really understand what that is or why I would need it. Is it just a safeguard against running the battery dead when the tractor is off, ie. is that why you'd suggest tying it to the ignition switch?

Thank you all,
-Michael

 

[techcrewkevin]

For the amp draw, I just took the watts printed on the product label, at 12v and came up with 10a. I figured that would be worst-case.



As for the charging system handling it. I wondered the same, but the stock breakers for headlights are 10a, the cigarette outlet is 10a and the factory work light is 5a. I made the assumption that I could use all of the factory components at the same time (ie 25a) and since I wouldn't be using those at the same time as my work lights, I thought I'd be ok. Am I missing something? Does anyone happen to know the AMP output of the alternator on a B2601? As long as the tractor is running, would I have a problem with power?



As for the 30a relay... I'm new to all of this and don't really understand what that is or why I would need it. Is it just a safeguard against running the battery dead when the tractor is off, ie. is that why you'd suggest tying it to the ignition switch?



Thank you all,

-Michael

According this chart I found online, the Kubota B2601 has a dynamo (not the exact same as an alternator), and outputs 14.5 amps.

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[SidecarFlip]

What I inferred in my original comment pertained to total load on the system, not just your light bar(s). I don't believe you charging system will handle the total load which will ultimately drain your battery with continuous use because your alternator / dynamo isn't capable of keeping up.

If it is a dynamo you could always fab a bracket and add a single wire alternator, what I'd do if it is indeed a dynamo.

 

[Kennyd4110]

As for the 30a relay... I'm new to all of this and don't really understand what that is or why I would need it. Is it just a safeguard against running the battery dead when the tractor is off, ie. is that why you'd suggest tying it to the ignition switch?

That is my main reasoning, yes.

 

[Kennyd4110]

According this chart I found online, the Kubota B2601 has a dynamo (not the exact same as an alternator), and outputs 14.5 amps.

Wow, I bet no one compares that specs when looking at other machines!

 

[techcrewkevin]

Wow, I bet no one compares that specs when looking at other machines!

Personally, I wouldn't be comparing them. If I need more power, is just change the dynamo to a real altornator.

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[Sparky73]

The purpose of a relay is to prevent the full load amperage from passing through the switch. Your accessory (light) switch closes the relay which then passes power from the battery directly to the load (lightbar).

You can wire the switch from the ignition circuit or any other keyed circuit to ensure the lights don't turn on unless the ignition switch is on.

 

[Sodark]

I have a B2650, pretty similar system. Factory dynamo output was something like ~14a. I went ahead and replaced it with an alternator kit for an L3300 which gave me ~40a output. You'll have to do something similar or downsize your lights.

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[SidecarFlip]

I have a B2650, pretty similar system. Factory dynamo output was something like ~14a. I went ahead and replaced it with an alternator kit for an L3300 which gave me ~40a output. You'll have to do something similar or downsize your lights.

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I said that in post 3 and post 8 but was ignored. Guess the OP has to find out the hard way. People are dense.

 

[msmcknight]

Hi Guys,

Sorry -- not ignoring -- just taking it all in. From what I gather, even if I switched to an alternator, I would still need the 30a relay.

Is there a specific part # for the "alternator kit for an L3300"?

What is a "1-wire alternator?" Does it somehow connect to the dynamo output, or does it need it's own belt & pulley to spin it?

Much of what you guys are suggesting is very informative, but it's all new to me. When you make a suggestion, I hit the Googles trying to learn more about the details.

I really do appreciate all the feedback!
-Michael

 

[200mph]

Based on the OP's original post, it sounds like the LED lights are already purchased.

Before getting real deep into this, I suggest the actual current draw of the lights is determined through actual measurement and not based on the packaging specifications. Once the actual current draw is measured, the best solution can be determined.

Based on previous experience measuring the current draw of LED, I found them to be significantly overstated. I'm going to take a guess and say they are likely around 7 amps, but this is only speculation on my part. If so, it might be possible to get by with the current dynamo with careful use by the operator. IE: Don't run both front and rear lights simultaneously for long periods of time and allow the battery to charge before shutting off.

Of course a 40 amp alternator is a great solution, but comes at additional cost.

Good luck to the OP!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

A '1-wire' alternator is a quick, dirty 'cheat' and while they work, they do not properly recharge the battery.Now IF you upgrade the alt to bat wire( the big fat one) and ground wire and use factory sealed cables, your battery may get a 99.44% charge. The reason it's a 'cheat' is that it can't take into account the IsquareR losses of the wiring between the alternator and the battery. To properly recharge the battery the 'regulator' has to 'sense'(read) the battery voltage and not the output of the alternator. Undersized wires,corroded terminals, questionable grounds all contribute to the battery not getting a proper charge.
The other point is most(all ?) 1-wire alts. require a fairly high speed to turn on the regulator. probably not a problem as RPM are usually 2000 or more. With big ,old farm tractors you ned to change the pulley to get the alt. to spin faster.
Yes, you should install the relay. Most 'light switches' I've seen won't handle the current(20-25 amps). They actually burn out due to the inrush current which can easily be 50-100 amps, depending on how the MFR made the LED units. The ones I build have a 'slow start' to limit the inrush current.

Jay

 

[dexterous]

Curious on your thoughts guys. I have a brand new B2650 ROPS ordered and on its way and LED lights already purchased and waiting for the tractor. These will be as follows:

2x ROPS mounted and facing forward
2x ROPS mounted and facing backwards
1x Backhoe boom mounted and facing the bucket.

After reading this entire thread, I went out and measured the current draw of these lights and they come in at 1.65 Amps each for a total of 8.25 Amps. While I wont use these very often, it's highly likely that I will need them a few times per year and that they will be on for hours at a time.

I know that the dynamo on the ROPS unit is rated at 14.5 Amps per the info on this forum and that I am going to pull 8.25 Amps which should leave 6.25 Amps of capacity remaining.

My question is, how much amperage does the tractor need to run and charge the battery? Is 6.25 Amps going to be enough or will I have issues? I had four of these lights (one less) on my 2017 BX23S and had zero issues for two years. Thanks!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

1st ...find a wiring diagram for tractor
2nd.. see if there's a 'run' fuse.
3rd.. remove fuse and replace with AMMETER.
4th.. run and record how much current is used.

5th.. remove ammeter, reinstall fuse.

Jay

 

[GeoHorn]

Don't get your panties in a wad worrying about the fine-hair issue of a 1-wire alternator. I ran them for 15 years on tractors and never had a battery charge problem at all. Never. (And GM made 'em for years on the pre 90 autos,...no one complained.)

As for figuring Amps... keep in mind that VOLTS times Amps equals Watts. <edit for bran phart)

If you're running a 12 volt electrical item that draws 120 watts that is equal to 10 Amps. The cheap little common 1" box auto relays are rated at 40 Amps. Use a switch to close the relay which connects your light to the battery. Protect the light with a 15 A fuse. (Fuses do not protect the appliance, contrary to common thought. They protect the WIRE that supplies the appliance so that if a short occurs you won't have an electrical system fire.)

Are you sure you need to run BOTH lights simultaneously?