Loader Pins

[AllDodge]

Again your state your opinion just as I am, but why does every other manufacture use hardened chrome? I'll wager that even Kubota uses hardened chrome pins on the excavator

Loader arm doesn't have bushings, and they should never wear because the pin should never rotate. The rotation should take place between cylinder and pin. The cylinder is hardened

Line boring happens only after long period of time and little maintenance wipes out both and needs rebuilt.

Not sure a ball joint press will fit. Going to look into it

 

[AllDodge]

This also may not be "just" a kubota issue, could be all tractor loaders are made this way

 

[85Hokie]

Again your state your opinion just as I am, but why does every other manufacture use hardened chrome? I'll wager that even Kubota uses hardened chrome pins on the excavator

Loader arm doesn't have bushings, and they should never wear because the pin should never rotate. The rotation should take place between cylinder and pin. The cylinder is hardened

Line boring happens only after long period of time and little maintenance wipes out both and needs rebuilt.

Not sure a ball joint press will fit. Going to look into it

This might help in the discussion of hardened vs mild steel pins ....from another forum but worth the read. As with any part that gets "used" - there needs to be a weak or break point in the mix,

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums.../240092-best-steel-backhoe-pins-bushings.html

 

[GeoHorn]

The guy mentioned to not to over tighten the all thread. Its just used to keep the tension on it.

Have to go out of town for some siding, might try cutting both sides so I can have less to work with.

Crappy Kubots parts

Crappy Kubota parts...NOT!

Crappy Maintenance by owner. Yep.
BTDT

85Hokie..Thanks for posting that thread. I had problems finding 30mm (1-3/16") rod for making pins for my LA1002 FEL and McMaster-Carr sells Tool Steel solid rod for $56/3ft. Just what I needed for spare pins. Thanks again.

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, that's an interesting and informative thread you found. Thanks for posting it.

 

[Luckystars]

i'd use a 12 ton bottle jack and press it out. you can chain the opposite sides together so you don't spread the frame. a 4x6 post to block the jack to reach the other side.
Once you have tension on the pin soak it with penetrating oil or diesel fuel or a light weight synthetic oil. Now don't hit the pin but hit the outside of frame towards the jack.
you might even need a screw binder on the chain to tighten the arms together. If it moves add more lube and pump jack tight again.
I had the opposite problem. The hydraulic arms were worn egg shape.
Good luck.

 

[Titan17]

I'm no engineer and maybe a little slow but it seems to me Kubota is doing things right. Wouldn't one rather the pins be softer than the loader arm bushings so the less expensive part is the wear or sacrificial part?

Harder pins can't make up for poor maintenance. I have had chrome hitch pins rust and gall in place before.

Hope someone can set me straight.

I rebuilt/made large pins, bushings and bosses at a machine shop for few years. This was the case on some pins: softer than the bushing. As they get larger in size they're sometimes hard chromed or hot rolled steel. Easy and cheap to replace pin instead of bushing or boss when small.

Kubota did it right. Pins are easier to R&R than bushings; TY Kubota. Please don't anyone think you're smarter than their engineer and design teams. Only prob is engineer thinks you're gonna keep it greased.

I weld mine up and turn um down leaving .020-.030" clearance for grease. Did 2 yesterday saved $74. Shoulda taken pics. If you're good with a hard wheel grinder and soft wheel disk (which I am) that works too.

I know lots more NON Kubota approved tricks that'll get that pin out and easy to do. PM me if you want to know more or call me a HACK. lol.

 

[AllDodge]

The pins did mushroom some and the reason hammering didn't do any good. I cut one side then took the hammer to open the gap on the other side. Should have taken a block of wood against the rod, but I hit the pin over. Doing this made me have to cut it 3 times to get it out. I'd make a mental note for next time but probably wouldn't remember any way.

Pin on the left was cut first and there is a bit of mushrooming on the right side of it

Used a 20 ton press and some sockets and all good. Now just need to clean paint and reinstall

 

[russell.still.5]

Good deal! Glad you got it fixed!


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[SidecarFlip]

Interesting thread. Never had a moment's issue with my loaders but I keep them greased at least every 10 hours, most times more frequently.

Last summer I made all new bushings for a friend's Case Extenda-Hoe. Not sure if the pins were hardened or not but all the bronze bushings were shot. I turned and sized all the bushings to the existing pins, +0.015 Easy job. Hard part was taking the hoe apart.

 

[russell.still.5]

I bought mine used and noticed all the bolts that hold the pins in were missing. Didn’t think much of it when I bought it. Just need a bolt or two, right... Boy was I wrong. Don’t think they had ever been greased and the pins mushroomed when trying to drive them out.


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[AllDodge]

I'm missing a couple bolts as well, but have gotten grease in all the pins now. Found that a 5/16 x 2 3/4 will fit nice and give enough room for a lock nut.

 

[Wbk]

If you have a seized pin and you seriously want to get it out use a Thermal Lance. We used them on spring pins on highway trucks and occasionally to get a very seized king pin out of an axle. Its very messy but it will go through any steel pin that we had, we had a small version and different length rods. Once you blow a hole through the center the pin would come out easy, but if the person using it was off with his aim you might be buying a new hangar or shackle.

 

[AllDodge]

A Thermal Lance would do the trick easy enough, but is probably something that the regular guy wouldn't have. Another guy mentioned it also on HEF and at $500 plus for a kit, not sure I'm ready to buy one yet.

I do have a stuck pin on my dump truck which I have tried several times to remove. Think my issue here is I'm unable to get the spring load off of it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

A thermal lance will also destroy the bushing. Not very controlable.

 

[Wbk]

In most cases your going to replace the bushing, don't forget your only dealing with a short pin and your using a small rod so being a bit careful and having some experience helps.

 

[AllDodge]

Well, there where 5 pins which had snapped keeper bolts, and besides the one above, I managed to get all removed and free except one more. This pin is on the loader arm to quick attach. Put a grade 5 bolt in it and it snapped it real easy. Been putting PB Blaster on it, and have a 10 ton cheap HF porta power, which going to try a rig something up to try and press it out.

This pin has next to no room for a blade

 

[Boo]

Stuck pins, I've had 'em before. I use a punch and a rivet gun on them. A long stroke #9 rivet gun has always moved them. No other method ever came close and I never had to heat any components. I guess I'll go check my pins now.

 

[AllDodge]

Well my port a power is only 4 ton so it didn't do much of anything.

Took some oak blocks, a chain, binder and 20 tom jack, and it didn't budget it either.

 

[DustyRusty]

I used to use PB Blaster as my penetrating oil of choice, until I tried a can of Deep Creep by Seafoam. It is more expensive than PB Blaster, but it works much better. Give it a try, and you will never use anything else in the future.