Our son is thinking about pulling the trigger on a L2501HST maybe tomorrow. One thing he was wondering about is with the older style steering, pitman arm and tie rods does it steer harder with a heavy load on the loader than one with full hydrostatic steering cylinder? I'm fairly sure he's going with R4 tires. I've searched and didn't find a solid answer.
How well does the L2501 steer with a load on the loader?
- Thread starter Grateful11
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Zero experience with a L2501 however I have the L3700SU and dad has a L3800HST both are the same with or without a loaded bucket we always have 500-1000 lbs on the rear hitch so that you have a fulcrum effect which relieves or robs weight from the front axle. That being said my opinion is you should see the same results because I think it is the same tractor just a little less HP.
I don't have a lot of hours on my 2501,but mine steers very well with a load.Without ballast the loader will easily out lift the tractor,very good loader.
Couldn't tell a difference with a load full of cinder blocks, but that's the most I've moved so far.
My #1 complaint with the setup is how vulnerable the tie rods are at the front of the axle vs. the steering cylinder setup. It doesn't steer as smooth either, but if I wasn't used to the other way with my fathers Grand L, I probably wouldn't know any better.
My #1 complaint with the setup is how vulnerable the tie rods are at the front of the axle vs. the steering cylinder setup. It doesn't steer as smooth either, but if I wasn't used to the other way with my fathers Grand L, I probably wouldn't know any better.
That's two things I was a afraid of. Everyone that helps out around is so used to smoothness and creature comforts of his Grand L3940 I'm afraid they're not going to want to drive the L2501.
Thanks everyone that sounds encouraging. Basically he's wanting a small chore tractor without a DPF. They're in and out of large hay sheds and feeding areas and would prefer not to have something regening while doing these chores. We went to the NC farm show last week and even the district reps said it probably best to at the least delay a regen when working in dusty hay sheds and barns. Also no one wanted to hear, "keep it over 1800 rpms and you'll be fine". I know this DPF thing has been debated a zillion times but that is one of the key factors with going with the L2501, otherwise I think he would be looking at a little more HP.
He's looking at going ahead with a 3rd function, just has to decide on R1 or R4's but definitely going HST.
The steering is one thing his Mother didn't care for the look of. She grew up on dairy and has been driving tractors since she was about 8 yo and she notices things like the tie rods sticking way out. When I told her it was similar steering type as the IH 574 they used to have she was like I hope it doesn't steer like the 574 did with a load on the loader. At low rpms the 574 was a bear.
He's looking at going ahead with a 3rd function, just has to decide on R1 or R4's but definitely going HST.
The steering is one thing his Mother didn't care for the look of. She grew up on dairy and has been driving tractors since she was about 8 yo and she notices things like the tie rods sticking way out. When I told her it was similar steering type as the IH 574 they used to have she was like I hope it doesn't steer like the 574 did with a load on the loader. At low rpms the 574 was a bear.
I dont do a lot of loader work, but have maxed out the LA525 loader lifting some concrete chunks to deposit as riprap along a gully. Didnt notice a steering issue but was mainly trying to keep the load low and slow...
If you want to do a lot of loading/cleaning out of pens, a little skidsteer might be the ticket, but I really like the overall utility of my L2501HST. I do more "cruising" at 1600 RPM than hard work at full PTO and load..
If you want to do a lot of loading/cleaning out of pens, a little skidsteer might be the ticket, but I really like the overall utility of my L2501HST. I do more "cruising" at 1600 RPM than hard work at full PTO and load..
dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
although i like the lay out of the steering on the B2650, I can tell you that I'm not real happy with it. I was lifting a new toolbox off the neighbors truck with my forks and couldn't steer at all. There must have been too much weight/too far out for the steering to overcome. I wasn't happy at all since I had to cut the wheel to get the load off his truck. It seemed like I had come up against a relief valve and the wheels would not turn despite the steering wheel turning in a "jerky" motion. It was a strange feeling.
Lots of factors impact steering. Load in the bucket, the terrain, engine RPM and oil flow, keeping the spindles well greased, and tire pressure.
You probably know this but always try to steer while moving. Wider turning radius helps too.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Your B2650 does not have a steering box, it has Hydrostatic steering.
So what you were feeling was the pressure relief valve cutting in and out.
It could very well need the pressure relief valve adjusted.
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Well we went to the dealership and looked at an L2501 but the only one they had together didn't have a quick change loader on it, they have about 5 in crates. So they brought out a L3301 with forks. I wasn't expecting them to try move a full pallet load of net wrap, 83# per roll or 1328# of net wrap plus the weight of the medium duty forks. It picked it up no problem but would not steer sitting still, not surprising. That was so much weight we were almost afraid to even try and move it, it did steer with some difficulty when moving very slowly in Low range. When they went to park the net wrap back into place, it was a slight incline, they have to use 4wd to get it to move as the rear as basically unweighted. It only had methanol loaded R4's and no other ballast. I'm still shocked that it picked it up at all.
They're thinking about loaded R1's instead of loaded R4's, you can put 3 sets of wheel weights on the R1's and by my calculations that will add 220# of weight to the rear over the R4's.
They're thinking about loaded R1's instead of loaded R4's, you can put 3 sets of wheel weights on the R1's and by my calculations that will add 220# of weight to the rear over the R4's.
My BX I can easily load till the back wheels are unweighted. I can drive it in 4wd, it'll steer and stop. The main issue with doing stuff like that is that the front wheels give no stability - the front axle is on a pivot, the rears are what stop it tipping. If the rear wheels have weight on them, the tractor tips really really easily.....so driving incredibly slowly is a must. Of course, a ballast box or implement on the back fixes all that, and probably lets you lift a bit more still - sounds like the tractor wasn't out of lift, it was just out of ballast.
And that 1300 lbs is roughly the weight of a hay bale right? Weight in the rear like a 3 point hay fork with a bale should help with that. Then again, maybe the front tires will turn easier if they were lubed with mud and manure. Lol.
I picked up my other G5200 (similar to what is in my avatar pic) with 48 inch forks and needed 4x4 when driving in grass and this was with loaded R4s. I also picked up an 84 inch rear mount blade from a trailer and she could tell that was there too. Doesnt take much.
I picked up my other G5200 (similar to what is in my avatar pic) with 48 inch forks and needed 4x4 when driving in grass and this was with loaded R4s. I also picked up an 84 inch rear mount blade from a trailer and she could tell that was there too. Doesnt take much.
That would depend on the size and density of the bale. They put up 600-900 high density 4x4 round bales here per year. The fairly rough gravel pavement on that lot would cause just about anything to have difficulty steering to be honest.
dirtydeed
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B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
That's what I figured. I assume that there is another relief valve for the steering circuit?Your B2650 does not have a steering box, it has Hydrostatic steering.
So what you were feeling was the pressure relief valve cutting in and out.
It could very well need the pressure relief valve adjusted.
I've already checked the hydraulic pressure at the loader which was within spec. I do, however, wish to bump it up slightly. Can I assume that this B uses the same shims commonly used for BX models?
Last I checked on parts for the B2650, the relief valve kit was like $700
The parts diagram for the B2650 doesn't show that the shims are sold separately (that's why I'm asking if the same shims can be used from the BX models).