B6100 Rebuild

[DoubleDurgz]

I have been lurking here for a few months and figured it was time to contribute. Its been years since i have been on a forum, almost feels like using a chatroom again.
I picked up my B6100D in December and what started out as some fixing up has turned into a rebuild. My garage isn't really equipped but I've been itching for a project for years. I was a C-130 aircraft mechanic for 13 years and used to love doing the heavy maintenance on it. 5 years, 4 kids, a bad back and a career change to the IT world and i'm ready to get my hands dirty.

 

[mickeyd]

Welcome to the OTT forum. YES, it is about time you joined or we never would have seen that nice old warrior.

You started off great by posting pictures... so, keep posting them coming as you go along.

 

[rentthis]

No dents not a lot of rust and just the right size for a first time project. That one should be fun. Get you a workshop manual and read up. Being in the rental business, projects come to me on a daily basis. Maybe one day I will get to just find one to enjoy.

 

[Forester45]

Great project - I did a B6200 year before last that I got at an auction for $900. I received a lot of help from the people here and had it running and looking not half bad for another $500. Great little tractor and it would go places my L3301 4X4 would not and it was just a two wheel drive. Unfortunately I made the mistake of selling it and wish I never had. Good luck with your project and keep us posted - love reading about bringing these machines back to glory! Get the WSM and a parts book if possible - great help!

 

[DoubleDurgz]

The fenders are in pretty rough shape around the mounting locations. I had a very large pile of rust when i finally got them off. There was not much left of the seat. I mangled the wheel hubs getting them off. Pretty much every nut, bolt and pin is corroded.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

Not sure the purpose of the steel plates here. I would like to fab some fenders of a similar material but it may be a better idea to start with some trailer fenders.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Before you 'mangle' the other side, I'd suggest soaking them down with P Blaster or liquid wrench or a good home made concoction of ATF and Acetone (what I use), 75% acetone, 25% ATF (red stuff), All the rusted bolts too, Will come off lots easier and less carnage.

I gave up on the screw type pullers a few years back. Got myself a Harbor Freight (I know Harbor Freight stuff is usually junk but not in this case) Hydraulic puller. I bought the 12 ton puller. It's basically a hydraulic jack with puller fingers. I use it on everything from harmonic dampers to brake discs. A couple pumps (and some of my acetone/atf mix and wham), the discs let go as well as the dampers, very nice tool. I would not be without it. Even works on ball joints. One thing about doing disc brakes is, the puller is capable of actually breaking the disc off the hub. Done that too. Sure beats beating on them with a sledge hammer.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

The wiring harness need to be replaced. Its brittle, corroded, spliced and nasty all around.I want to make a new harness and add modern gauges, switches and lights. Definitely want a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. not concerned with having a full size hour meter.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

The right hand brake had a leaking seal on the gear case. The shoes were packed full of gunk and the drum is currently seized. The left brake looks great but will put in all new shoes and drums.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

All the pedals, linkages and rods are either corroded or gunked up.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

The tractor came with a plow that hadn't been on it in years. The control valve and hoses were garbage. The lift cylinder was missing. The plow itself is a KUFD21O but the frame appears to be a KUFD110.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

next step is to pull the engine and split the case. Everything is gong to be powder coated. Going to order all new hardware.
Stay tuned, more to come!

 

[DoubleDurgz]

Before you 'mangle' the other side, I'd suggest soaking them down with P Blaster or liquid wrench or a good home made concoction of ATF and Acetone (what I use), 75% acetone, 25% ATF (red stuff), All the rusted bolts too, Will come off lots easier and less carnage.

I gave up on the screw type pullers a few years back. Got myself a Harbor Freight (I know Harbor Freight stuff is usually junk but not in this case) Hydraulic puller. I bought the 12 ton puller. It's basically a hydraulic jack with puller fingers. I use it on everything from harmonic dampers to brake discs. A couple pumps (and some of my acetone/atf mix and wham), the discs let go as well as the dampers, very nice tool. I would not be without it. Even works on ball joints. One thing about doing disc brakes is, the puller is capable of actually breaking the disc off the hub. Done that too. Sure beats beating on them with a sledge hammer.

already mangled both sides. I would like a hydraulic puller and do shop at harbor fright. The right hub had been modified and welded so there was no way to loosen the wedges. I found some cheaper replacement hubs with a slightly different design.

 

[SidecarFlip]

already mangled both sides. I would like a hydraulic puller and do shop at harbor fright. The right hub had been modified and welded so there was no way to loosen the wedges. I found some cheaper replacement hubs with a slightly different design.

Check out the hydraulic puller, They never advertise them on sale but they are there. Lots of You-Tube vid's on them and how well they work (and they do), I'm a testament to that. Simple but very efficient design.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

already mangled both sides. I would like a hydraulic puller and do shop at harbor fright. The right hub had been modified and welded so there was no way to loosen the wedges. I found some cheaper replacement hubs with a slightly different design.

You haven't cut the strap all the way through, and you need to remove the bolt as it's probably indented into the axle.

 

[Lil Foot]

Wow, hard to believe they were that hard to get off. Normally those style hubs are almost impossible to get tight at all- even fully tightened, they usually still wobble & flop.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

You haven't cut the strap all the way through, and you need to remove the bolt as it's probably indented into the axle.

There is a thru bolt that goes thru pre drilled holes in the axle. The bolt on the hub has an eccentric washer to tighten the wedge blocks against the shafts. I couldn’t get anything other than the thru bolts out. The puller did the trick though.


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[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glad you got them off they can be tough.

Notice on the hubs you pick that they do not include the studs or nuts.
You might have a hard time finding studs that will fit and hold in those hubs.

 

[DoubleDurgz]

Notice on the hubs you pick that they do not include the studs or nuts.

You might have a hard time finding studs that will fit and hold in those hubs.

I knew there had to be a catch...


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[FishLife]

The hubs on my B6100 doesnt have studs. Just bolts and axles nuts.