BX25D Hydralic pressure test guage

[AndyM]

I want to test my pressure. Looked at BXpanded guage but A) by the time it gets here it will be a very expensive item and B) in my little bit of research I gather the proper way to test is with a "T" fitting that allows the system to flow while being tested. So "T" or no "T"?

I also read the gauge should be equiped with a male fitting (the BXpanded version I saw was female). Which leads to the obvious question - which port is is the correct / best to connect to?

I can buy a 3500 psi guage here for under $15 loons. Add the fittings and that's my plan. Already have a set of Kubota sourced shims.


TIA

 

[Dave_eng]

I want to test my pressure. Looked at BXpanded guage but A) by the time it gets here it will be a very expensive item and B) in my little bit of research I gather the proper way to test is with a "T" fitting that allows the system to flow while being tested. So "T" or no "T"?

I also read the gauge should be equiped with a male fitting (the BXpanded version I saw was female). Which leads to the obvious question - which port is is the correct / best to connect to?

I can buy a 3500 psi guage here for under $15 loons. Add the fittings and that's my plan. Already have a set of Kubota sourced shims.


TIA

Keep it simple if your machine has moderate hours of use. You don't need to Tee into the system at this stage.

Do you have a specific issue?

Download the BX WSM from Kubotabooks.com

A gauge like this one is, as you suggest, less than $30. Get a length of hose if it will make it easier to read the gauge.

Page 5 S-4 of the WSM shows how to test and adjust relief valve

Flow rather than pressure testing has its place but the pressure test will tell you the most relevant info on a working system.

Dave

 

[85Hokie]

I want to test my pressure. Looked at BXpanded guage but A) by the time it gets here it will be a very expensive item and B) in my little bit of research I gather the proper way to test is with a "T" fitting that allows the system to flow while being tested. So "T" or no "T"?

I also read the gauge should be equiped with a male fitting (the BXpanded version I saw was female). Which leads to the obvious question - which port is is the correct / best to connect to?

I can buy a 3500 psi guage here for under $15 loons. Add the fittings and that's my plan. Already have a set of Kubota sourced shims.


TIA

You will probably find your PSI somewhere in the 1650-1750 (cold) range when you get it all hooked up.

What shim thickness you looking to add? I would stay under the magic 2000 psi range - and yes you will notice a difference, specially in the FEL and hoe usage.

 

[AndyM]

Dave
Thanks for the reply. I am a little concerned about the FEL capacity - it has always seemed a little anemic. When I went to move my offcut bin (picture in "what did you do on your Kubota" thread) it wouldnt lift it and I am sure it is well under the rated loader capacity.

The reference to the "adjust the relief valve" raised a question - is it correct to assume the valve is set at whatever pressure the system is reading? The WSM version I have says:
"Relief valve setting pressure: 12.3 to 12.7 MPa
125 to 130 kgf/cm2
1778 to 1849 psi"

Most posts I read suggest a 2000 PSI upper limit. Comments?

Hokie
Plan is to shim up to @ 2000 assuming that is safe.

 

[redfernclan]

The search engine is you friend. I did a write up on this a few years back with step by step instructions. If your having trouble searching, just look for threads that I have started.

 

[85Hokie]

Dave
Thanks for the reply. I am a little concerned about the FEL capacity - it has always seemed a little anemic. When I went to move my offcut bin (picture in "what did you do on your Kubota" thread) it wouldnt lift it and I am sure it is well under the rated loader capacity.

The reference to the "adjust the relief valve" raised a question - is it correct to assume the valve is set at whatever pressure the system is reading? The WSM version I have says:
"Relief valve setting pressure: 12.3 to 12.7 MPa
125 to 130 kgf/cm2
1778 to 1849 psi"

Most posts I read suggest a 2000 PSI upper limit. Comments?

Hokie
Plan is to shim up to @ 2000 assuming that is safe.

When I did mine many years ago - I think I got close ....somethin' like 1970ish psi......

2000 psi is a good stopping point

 

[redfernclan]

My bad, I didn't start the thread, just posted.
This; http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15851 should get you to the thread with all the info you need.

 

[AndyM]

The search engine is you friend. I did a write up on this a few years back with step by step instructions. If your having trouble searching, just look for threads that I have started.

For sure - search was the first thing I did and I found a few but not yours. Searched for "Hydralic pressure test guage", "Hydralic pressure test", "pressure test guage", and didn't see your post - now that I know it exists I will have a look at your posts.

Thanks.

 

[AndyM]

"My bad, I didn't start the thread, just posted.
This; http://www.orangetractortalks.com/fo...ad.php?t=15851 should get you to the thread with all the info you need."

Thanks for the link - Info was helpful. I am left with one question. In Dave_engs post a picture of a gauge with a male end is shown. Bxpanded and in your post states "Attach the gauge to the fitting on the tractor. It will be a male end and your gauge should have a female end."

Is this just a matter of which port you connect to? I would have thought the choice of port would matter.

As you can tell my knowledge of hydralics is pretty weak.

 

[redfernclan]

If I remember right, it was the quick connect group for the front end loader. the little covers are color coded and I believe you want the white one. Disconnect the hose with the engine NOT running and after you moved the lift lever back and forth the relieve any leftover pressure. Start the engine, let it warm up a bit, rev it up to 2500 to 3000 RPM and raise the bucket. You should get a reading.
You might want to disconnect all the hoses before you start it just so nothing moves unexpectedly.
Mine started at about 1750 from the factory and I used a couple of shims to get it to 1950.
Shim part numbers where in the posts.
Made a big difference when digging.

 

[Dave_eng]

"My bad, I didn't start the thread, just posted.
This; http://www.orangetractortalks.com/fo...ad.php?t=15851 should get you to the thread with all the info you need."

Thanks for the link - Info was helpful. I am left with one question. In Dave_engs post a picture of a gauge with a male end is shown. Bxpanded and in your post states "Attach the gauge to the fitting on the tractor. It will be a male end and your gauge should have a female end."

Is this just a matter of which port you connect to? I would have thought the choice of port would matter.

As you can tell my knowledge of hydralics is pretty weak.

Andy

Please download the WSM I suggested. It shows a male ended gauge being plugged into a rear remote.

In the beginning, the choice of ports is not particularly important. You could use one of the FEL ports. Doing the test is just a few seconds of sending flow to the gauge,

If you find something really amiss, then consider getting some expert help as the hydraulic systems can have more than one relief valve. Learning as you go can be very expensive in a second or two.

The manuals do NOT do a good job explaining the many ways a hydraulic system can be set up.

Here is one example. On M series tractors, the WSM tells you to check the pressure setting of the relief valve on a rear remote. Great but if you have a FEL, the flow from the main pump first goes to the FEL valve which has its own relief valve. The FEL valve supplies the rear remotes and 3 pt hitch through a power beyond port in the FEL valve. There is a relief valve for the 3 pt and rear remotes but if the FEL relief is set too low the other relief valve does not have any more pressure to work with than the setting of the FEL relief.

This photo shows a no longer available hydraulic part being split by an owner making pressure adjustments. There is no warning just a sickening crack.

Get your dealer to make a house call and then when the mechanic arrives, offer him $20 cash to teach you about your tractor's system. It will be the best investment you ever make.

Dave

 

[AndyM]

Dave

Thanks for the input. I will read up a little more on hydraulics.

Andy

 

[85Hokie]

Is this just a matter of which port you connect to? I would have thought the choice of port would matter.

Andy,

It will not matter WHICH port - one on the FEL is the easiest to get too - I picked one of the 4 that will allow the "gauge" to plug into without interfering with the others.

With tractor running - one of the systems of the FEL will not work and you will have gauge movement and a whine if you hold it there long - the whine IS the pressure relief valve opening and bypassing the fluid.

Pressure on all the ports will be the same - no matter which one you choose btw = as long as you place the stick to that port

 

[AndyM]

Is this just a matter of which port you connect to? I would have thought the choice of port would matter.

Andy,

It will not matter WHICH port - one on the FEL is the easiest to get too - I picked one of the 4 that will allow the "gauge" to plug into without interfering with the others.

With tractor running - one of the systems of the FEL will not work and you will have gauge movement and a whine if you hold it there long - the whine IS the pressure relief valve opening and bypassing the fluid.

Pressure on all the ports will be the same - no matter which one you choose btw = as long as you place the stick to that port

Thanks Hokie, that's helpful.
I was thinking the supply side of the things would have a different pressure than the return (wrong) - makes more sense to me now.

Andy

 

[Little Orange]

Would a member be so kind as to post in which order to install the shims as this doesn't seem to be mention any wheres. Does the small go in first or the larger diameter washer?

Have the shims just need to do the upgrade. thanks

 

[redfernclan]

The order does not matter. The total thickness is the deciding factor.

 

[85Hokie]

Would a member be so kind as to post in which order to install the shims as this doesn't seem to be mention any wheres. Does the small go in first or the larger diameter washer?

Have the shims just need to do the upgrade. thanks

As Red said....order nor placement makes no difference - what is truly happening is the tension on the spring. That little thickness, compacts the spring a bit, thus making it a wee bit stiffer!

 

[Little Orange]

Thanks fellows, will put the thinner one next to the plug and thicker one near the spring, as said the thickness is the factor that changes the pressure.

Just a great web site for learning about how to look after the investment.

BTW have over 500 hrs. and still finding things to do with it.