B7100 seized.

[thebicman]

Why not have the flywheel resurfaced as a machine shop. I would never install a new pressure plate without resurfacing the flywheel. Plus you guarantee its not warped.

 

[torch]

Glad I have a hydraulic shuttle.

So do I. The only time the clutch gets used is to start the tractor and to engage or disengage the PTO. The friction plate has lots of material left, well within the wear limit in the service manual.

 

[torch]

Why not have the flywheel resurfaced as a machine shop. I would never install a new pressure plate without resurfacing the flywheel. Plus you guarantee its not warped.

I have a lathe and a grade AA granite surface plate. I will be checking for warpage before assembly and will resurface it if necessary.

 

[SidecarFlip]

On my big Kubby's I understand I have a damper plate between the output and the transmission input, but the clutching (if you want to call it that) is entirely controlled by a hydraulic oil modulating valve that controls the clamping force in the hydraulic clutch pack so no clutch in the sense of the word at all. Just a multi plate clutch pack modulated with hydraulic oil. The 'damper plate' is never engaged or released, just a shock coupling.

In fact, my M's have no drain for condensation on the bell housings because there is no mechanical movement in there.

Never had it apart to see and don't want to take it apart either. My components are substantially larger and heavier than yours. A 7000 pound tractor isn't coming apart in my shop.

 

[Russell King]

I would go back with new parts in total including the pilot bushing

That way you know they are all as good as can be and don’t have to be concerned about them.

And the time you’re spending is valuable so avoiding a repeat of the repair is time saved.

But I have a hard time spending my own money so I can sympathize with your thought process.

Glad you found the problem and it can be repaired.

What is the black spot on the interior of the bell housing?


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[SidecarFlip]

I have a lathe and a grade AA granite surface plate. I will be checking for warpage before assembly and will resurface it if necessary.

Not sure if a flywheel is turned or Blanchard ground.

I have a lathe as well, actually 4 plus 2 surface grinders, 3 Bridgeports 1 is CNC and a Haas 3 axis machining center and all the ancillary stuff too. Never turned (resurfaced) a flywheel or brake discs.

I doubt it's warped, don't look overheated and no scoring that I can see.

 

[GeoHorn]

WOW, Torch! THANKS for sharing your discoveries. I'm sure you'll do it correctly and congrats on the work so-far. (I never reinstall throwout or pilot bearings....they're just too cheap to buy. But I also never buy aftermarket bearings either...only the genuine article.)

 

[torch]

I would go back with new parts in total including the pilot bushing

Good call on the pilot bushing. I had forgotten about that. The shaft end is 0.547". The pilot bushing ID is 0.564" with some sort of plastic lining that is starting to flake at the edge. Google says the ID should be 0.55".

What is the black spot on the interior of the bell housing?

I hadn't cleaned out the dust yet. Probably friction material. [/QUOTE]


The flywheel had 0.001" TIR and is flat, so I won't do any resurfacing. If I was to resurface it, I'd use a tool post grinder in case there were hard spots.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Good old carnage... Glad I have a hydraulic shuttle. Wishing you the best on re-assembly

Sidecarflipper,
Your fancy BIG M could suffer the same fate you have the exact same setup in your dampener plate, and it gets the same force applied and removed every time you put it in gear or change direction.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Why not have the flywheel resurfaced as a machine shop. I would never install a new pressure plate without resurfacing the flywheel. Plus you guarantee its not warped.

It's Never recommended to resurface a kubota flywheel, it's almost always better to just replace it.

The tolerances on the bolt and clutch face surfaces are too small, if you resurface it you risk the clutch not working properly.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There is also a dust seal that goes in between the flywheel and the pilot bushing in the end of the crank.

The pilot bushings are teflon lined, get a kubota one.

 

[torch]

There is also a dust seal that goes in between the flywheel and the pilot bushing in the end of the crank.

The pilot bushings are teflon lined, get a kubota one.

Yeah, I found the seal. It popped out pretty easy, still looks OK, but I think I'll replace it anyway. Oddly, Kubota calls it an "oil seal" on the parts list. I was scratching my head trying to figure out what oil it could possibly be sealing in the blind end of the crankshaft next to a dry bearing, but keeping dust out of the joint makes sense. I wonder if it was installed backwards? It seems to me that the lip was facing in. The WSM is not of much help. All it says is
"6. Flywheel
(1) Apply a thin film of grease to the dry bearing and oil seal at the back of the crankshaft."

MSRP on the friction disk is $160 (Canadian). Kind of hurts when I see them on eBay and Amazon for around $60 (US). But I think I'll bend over and grasp my ankles on this one, and get it all from the dealer rather than take any chances.

BTW: good call on the clutch. It was my first thought, but it was nice to have confirmation from someone who has actually had one of these apart before.

What are your thoughts on making some brass nuts for the muffler? Brass nuts used to be common on automotive exhaust manifolds.

 

[torch]

Parts ordered. Should be in tomorrow.

 

[GeoHorn]

….What are your thoughts on making some brass nuts for the muffler? Brass nuts used to be common on automotive exhaust manifolds.

I've used 'em on small aircraft engines where they were specified but they are easily worn-out and cannot be re-used very dependably. You might try to find some self-locking Inconel or stainless/hi-temp nuts.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What are your thoughts on making some brass nuts for the muffler? Brass nuts used to be common on automotive exhaust manifolds.

I use Stainless nuts on them, makes it much easier down the line.
There is too much supported weight on that setup for brass ones to hold up.

 

[Russell King]

On my L185 the exhaust is connected by brass nuts to the manifold. The nuts are larger hex than normal steel nuts would be to fit the stud diameter. And they are standard Kubota parts for my tractor.

It is a small tractor with small exhaust under tractor style so not much stress involved



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[torch]

The parts arrived at the dealer this morning. Everything except the pilot bearing that is. Arrrgggh. The very first piece required for the reassembly and the warehouse forgot to ship it.

I picked up a used Sears Craftsman walk-behind off Kijiji (the northern equivalent of Craigs list). Piece of crap and overpriced but the only used one available in mid-January with a series of snowstorms in the forecast. The one good thing about it is that it makes me appreciate the tractor!



Well, that and it's faster than a shovel.



Barely.

 

[SidecarFlip]

The parts arrived at the dealer this morning. Everything except the pilot bearing that is. Arrrgggh. The very first piece required for the reassembly and the warehouse forgot to ship it.

I picked up a used Sears Craftsman walk-behind off Kijiji (the northern equivalent of Craigs list). Piece of crap and overpriced but the only used one available in mid-January with a series of snowstorms in the forecast. The one good thing about it is that it makes me appreciate the tractor!



Well, that and it's faster than a shovel.



Barely.

Sears Cracksman... No wonder Sears is going down the toilet. Mostly junk.

if you didn't live so far from me, I'd drive up with my plow and do yours. Problem is, at 22mph it would take me all winter to get there....

Would be a fun trip though.

Had a Sears Cracksman tiller once. Total junk. Offed it on Craigs List to a sucker. Broke even.

Toward the end, even their tools were junk. I see Lowes is now selling them. I'd rather buy Harbor Freight, least if they break you can get a new one.

So, no bearing? That is a bummer.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Sidecarflipper,
Your fancy BIG M could suffer the same fate you have the exact same setup in your dampener plate, and it gets the same force applied and removed every time you put it in gear or change direction.

Don't tell me that. I prefer not to know. I'd just as soon forget it's in there. Splitting the M's could be a costly adventure.

Don't think I've ever engaged or disengaged them. There is no means of doing that, that I know of. My clutching is all hydraulic or at least I think it is...

Is that correct?

I know my clutch pedal linkage is connected to the modulating valve on the side of the main case. No linkage going to the bellhousing at all.

My M's aren't fancy (compared to the new ones), just old and simple. They way I like it.

I rarely use the 'clutch' pedal anyway. Always the shuttle lever.

 

[torch]

Update: pilot bushing made it to the dealer, so I got my parts this afternoon. The tractor is mostly reassembled now. My son will come over tomorrow to give me a hand reinstalling the FEL arms, then I can connect up the lines and refill the hydraulic oil.

It actually went together with less trouble than I feared, given I was working alone. With a floor jack under each half and a ratchet strap on each side of the front axle, I was able to gently walk it home. Then with the front driveshaft splines teetering on the edge of engagement, there was just enough room for my fingers to reach in and verify by feel that the transmission input shaft was aligned with the centre of the friction plate. Light pressure on the ratchet straps, a little judicious jiggling, and she popped right together.

I spent more time on other maintenance items like changing the exhaust manifold studs and the engine oil than getting the two halves back together again.