Adjustable lifting rod

[Smokeless]

Does anyone else find the adjustable lifting rod difficult to turn. Specifically i needed to tilt my rear blade to one side to cut a small water drain path in the driveway. Boy that arm was tough to turn. Any tricks out there????

 

[SidecarFlip]

Set the implement on the ground and relieve the pressure on the adjustable link. You'll be amazed how easy it turns. Not meant to be adjusted with implement weight on it.

 

[Smokeless]

Set the implement on the ground and relieve the pressure on the adjustable link. You'll be amazed how easy it turns. Not meant to be adjusted with implement weight on it.

Well, i did have it down to start with. Still turned very hard. I will try it again tomorrow and make sure pressure off adjustable link, i did not check that first. Thanks.

 

[Russell King]

Be sure the threads are lubricated with grease also


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[Tim Horton]

Like said... Once you get it to adjust, move it to the maximum length and lube well.

I use copper color anti seize compound. Has worked well for me.

 

[Smokeless]

Like said... Once you get it to adjust, move it to the maximum length and lube well.

I use copper color anti seize compound. Has worked well for me.

Ok, lots of grease to, copper anti seize good tip. Did not think of that. Thanks

All i know is that link turned mighty hard, i will verify pressure off link, more later and thanks

 

[hodge]

I replaced the one on my JD with this-

https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/hitch-kits/adjustable-leveling-box-3

I had to do a little bit of improvising to attach it (a sleeve for the top mounting hole), but it fit great, and works MUCH better.

 

[Smokeless]

I replaced the one on my JD with this-

https://www.compactractorparts.com/tractor-parts/hitch-kits/adjustable-leveling-box-3

I had to do a little bit of improvising to attach it (a sleeve for the top mounting hole), but it fit great, and works MUCH better.

A hand crank as in your wwww link would be welcomed. I will fiddle with it today and be sure pressure off arm, see were that leads. Thanks Mark

 

[BXHoosier]

Try letting the blade down onto a 4x4 or a couple 2x4s in the center of the blade so it takes the weight off the lift links and allows the blade to pivot on the blocks.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Didn't realize you did not have a crank handle. Both my M's have a crank handle on the levelling link (and 2 grease fittings as well.)

 

[Smokeless]

Try letting the blade down onto a 4x4 or a couple 2x4s in the center of the blade so it takes the weight off the lift links and allows the blade to pivot on the blocks.

Bingo!!!! Worked great, blade titled from side to side easy with 4x4 in center. I still would prefer a crank handle. Another gent mentioned he had one on his M with two grease fittings. Wonder if it would retrofit to my 3901?

I assume one would use same technique if tilting a box blade.

We are old school red fast hitch people here, even my 300 had a crank handle for tilting..

Thanks for the tip, dont understand why little tid bits like that aren't in the manual

Thanks again

 

[BXHoosier]

You are welcome. Glad I could help.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Bingo!!!! Worked great, blade titled from side to side easy with 4x4 in center. I still would prefer a crank handle. Another gent mentioned he had one on his M with two grease fittings. Wonder if it would retrofit to my 3901?

I assume one would use same technique if tilting a box blade.

We are old school red fast hitch people here, even my 300 had a crank handle for tilting..

Thanks for the tip, dont understand why little tid bits like that aren't in the manual

Thanks again

That would be me and I bet it will fit. Check with your dealer.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That would be me and I bet it will fit. Check with your dealer.

Yes it will physically go on, but is way wrong.

Over all working length is much longer on the M, 4" If I remember correctly.

Top pin size is 7/8" on the M, 3/4" on the L. As well as the ball swivels are different widths, close, but different.

Lower pin size is 7/8" on the M, 5/8" on the L. Lower clevis's are different widths inside and out.

Like I said, it will physically fit on, but everything is wrong about it.

 

[Smokeless]

Yes it will physically go on, but is way wrong.

Over all working length is much longer on the M, 4" If I remember correctly.

Top pin size is 7/8" on the M, 3/4" on the L. As well as the ball swivels are different widths, close, but different.

Lower pin size is 7/8" on the M, 5/8" on the L. Lower clevis's are different widths inside and out.

Like I said, it will physically fit on, but everything is wrong about it.

Well that sums it up. Guess I will head a different route, probably after market retrofit. Thanks for detailed reply.