Hey guys.. so as many of you are aware these quick-hitches are a great attachment to have if your a guy who changes implements quite often or even for someone who just wants to give their back a break.
This is just a quick write up of what to look for when buying a quick-hitch and what you might want to change or fabricate if you already do have one.
If your buying one:
- Step 1. Make sure that you buy a Quick-Hitch with a top hook that is offset.. typically the top hook will be offset by around 3/4 of an inch.. this allows you to connect to your implement MUCH easier because the top hook will sit out farther from the frame. Often.. if the hook is NOT offset, you won’t even be able to hook to your implement at all do to the implement not having enough clearance between the top mount and the frame of the quick-hitch.
-Step 2. Make sure you know what your buying.. check the spread of your implements from side to side and from top pin to lower pin.. when you buy a quick-hitch it should show you under the specs what the measurements are for the spread along with the distance between the top and lower pins.
-Once you know that the quick-hitch already has the offset top hook and you have seen that the measurements for the spread and top to lower pins will fit your implements then continue to Step 3.
Step 3. -Choose a bushing-less or bushing style quick hitch dependent on your needs. If you know for sure that all your implements are going to be on a cat 1 hitch then I HIGHLY recommend you go with a bushing-less quick-hitch.. a bushing-less quick hitch will allow you to connect the quick hitch directly to cat 1 pins (this saves you both time and money) because you won’t have to buy a bushing set for each of your implements and you won’t have to worry about installing and removing the bushings constantly if you use multiple tractors for the same implements.
If you DO have implements that are going to use a cat 2 hitch then make sure that you buy a standard quick-Hitch.. one that will require bushings in order to work on cat 1 implements.. you will have to install these bushings on all of your implements to use the quick hitch but the up-side is that you can leave the bushings on the implements as long as you are using a cat2 hitched tractor to connect to them after the bushings are installed.
Most people use cat 1.. in which case most of you guys should be choosing a bushing-less quick-hitch to save yourself the trouble of those stupid bushings. You can find a bushing-less quick hitch for around $150 like I did.. as far as I know they are just as strong and use the exact same design as the bushing type quick-hitches.
For people who already own a quick-quick hitch:
-IF your implements all use cat 1 pins and you already have a bushing style quick-hitch then all you need to do is weld in two pieces of 1/4” thick flat stock flush against the backside of the hooks to take up the slop that the bushings normally would...you would need to do this to all 3 of hooks on your quick hitch. If you do this then you will no longer need to put bushings on every one of your implements.
-IF your implements all use cat 1 pins and you already have the bushing-less quick hitch then I suggest that you do the same thing I just mentioned above but you only have to weld the flat stock to the top hook and you can leave your bottom hooks alone.. i have a bushing-less quick-hitch and this is what I did.. this allows you to take out a lot of the slop/play in the top hook.
-Add spacers to your top pin where the top link connects to your quick-hitch.. this will also remove a lot of the slop that a quick-hitch has.
-IF your top hook is NOT offset.. then you can simply weld a piece of square stock to the back of the hook and drill the 2 holes into it to allow it to mount to your quick hitch in place of the standard hook mounts and this will give you the offset that you need to make connecting to Implements possible/easier.
-Most of the fabricating mentioned above can be found in this link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wMrvjGRxbMI
This is where I got the idea from.
Just like the guy in the video.. I made my own spacer out of flat stock for my quick-hitch.. it turned out good and works fantastic!
Pics of my own:
I painted my top hook kubota grey when I was all done to match my 3 point hitch.
I hope this helps some people who either own a quick-hitch or who plan to buy a quick-hitch..
If there was anything I left out.. or maybe something I said wrong, don’t hesitate to correct me.
Thanks guys!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is just a quick write up of what to look for when buying a quick-hitch and what you might want to change or fabricate if you already do have one.
If your buying one:
- Step 1. Make sure that you buy a Quick-Hitch with a top hook that is offset.. typically the top hook will be offset by around 3/4 of an inch.. this allows you to connect to your implement MUCH easier because the top hook will sit out farther from the frame. Often.. if the hook is NOT offset, you won’t even be able to hook to your implement at all do to the implement not having enough clearance between the top mount and the frame of the quick-hitch.
-Step 2. Make sure you know what your buying.. check the spread of your implements from side to side and from top pin to lower pin.. when you buy a quick-hitch it should show you under the specs what the measurements are for the spread along with the distance between the top and lower pins.
-Once you know that the quick-hitch already has the offset top hook and you have seen that the measurements for the spread and top to lower pins will fit your implements then continue to Step 3.
Step 3. -Choose a bushing-less or bushing style quick hitch dependent on your needs. If you know for sure that all your implements are going to be on a cat 1 hitch then I HIGHLY recommend you go with a bushing-less quick-hitch.. a bushing-less quick hitch will allow you to connect the quick hitch directly to cat 1 pins (this saves you both time and money) because you won’t have to buy a bushing set for each of your implements and you won’t have to worry about installing and removing the bushings constantly if you use multiple tractors for the same implements.
If you DO have implements that are going to use a cat 2 hitch then make sure that you buy a standard quick-Hitch.. one that will require bushings in order to work on cat 1 implements.. you will have to install these bushings on all of your implements to use the quick hitch but the up-side is that you can leave the bushings on the implements as long as you are using a cat2 hitched tractor to connect to them after the bushings are installed.
Most people use cat 1.. in which case most of you guys should be choosing a bushing-less quick-hitch to save yourself the trouble of those stupid bushings. You can find a bushing-less quick hitch for around $150 like I did.. as far as I know they are just as strong and use the exact same design as the bushing type quick-hitches.
For people who already own a quick-quick hitch:
-IF your implements all use cat 1 pins and you already have a bushing style quick-hitch then all you need to do is weld in two pieces of 1/4” thick flat stock flush against the backside of the hooks to take up the slop that the bushings normally would...you would need to do this to all 3 of hooks on your quick hitch. If you do this then you will no longer need to put bushings on every one of your implements.
-IF your implements all use cat 1 pins and you already have the bushing-less quick hitch then I suggest that you do the same thing I just mentioned above but you only have to weld the flat stock to the top hook and you can leave your bottom hooks alone.. i have a bushing-less quick-hitch and this is what I did.. this allows you to take out a lot of the slop/play in the top hook.
-Add spacers to your top pin where the top link connects to your quick-hitch.. this will also remove a lot of the slop that a quick-hitch has.
-IF your top hook is NOT offset.. then you can simply weld a piece of square stock to the back of the hook and drill the 2 holes into it to allow it to mount to your quick hitch in place of the standard hook mounts and this will give you the offset that you need to make connecting to Implements possible/easier.
-Most of the fabricating mentioned above can be found in this link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wMrvjGRxbMI
This is where I got the idea from.
Just like the guy in the video.. I made my own spacer out of flat stock for my quick-hitch.. it turned out good and works fantastic!
Pics of my own:
I painted my top hook kubota grey when I was all done to match my 3 point hitch.
I hope this helps some people who either own a quick-hitch or who plan to buy a quick-hitch..
If there was anything I left out.. or maybe something I said wrong, don’t hesitate to correct me.
Thanks guys!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk