Skidding winch

[crmorse]

Stomper, I'll check and see if I still have it laying around somewhere (not high hope though). If I do, I'll send it to you.

Sorry, no dice. I would have sent it with the capstan if I had it. But I double-checked the workshop and it's not laying around. Sorry!!

If it helps, it's basically just a rectangular block of aluminum with a ramp cut on one side. I bet Mike could send you a close up of his. It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate with just a hacksaw and a file.

 

[mike paulson]

Sorry, no dice. I would have sent it with the capstan if I had it. But I double-checked the workshop and it's not laying around. Sorry!!

If it helps, it's basically just a rectangular block of aluminum with a ramp cut on one side. I bet Mike could send you a close up of his. It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate with just a hacksaw and a file.

I'll send Stomp some close ups of it. Shouldn't be hard to Fab. You might wanna give a guide of some sort again. It makes all the difference. My mount was a piece of square tube cut and welded into place

 

[mike paulson]

Mike, about your pictures not loading correct. I am assuming you took them and posted them with you Iphone. I was doing that also and mine were loading 1/4 turn out also. what I did to fix it was after I took the picture with my phone I went into my pictures and clicked on the picture, clicked the edit icon, then clicked on the rotate button, rotated the picture one full rotation until it was the correct orentation and hit save. Don't ask me why the pictures don't load properly or why this works but it did for me. I found this out by accident.

I'm going to have to start editing my pics so they line up. Got a crick twisting my neck looking at them upload, LOL

 

[Stomper]

Sorry, no dice. I would have sent it with the capstan if I had it. But I double-checked the workshop and it's not laying around. Sorry!!

If it helps, it's basically just a rectangular block of aluminum with a ramp cut on one side. I bet Mike could send you a close up of his. It wouldn't be too hard to fabricate with just a hacksaw and a file.

No worries. Thanks for looking and it does looks pretty easy to make. Just curious if the guide is made from aluminum, I have a chunk of 1/2 x 4 flat bar I could use.

 

[mike paulson]

No worries. Thanks for looking and it does looks pretty easy to make. Just curious if the guide is made from aluminum, I have a chunk of 1/2 x 4 flat bar I could use.

It's steel. But I'm sure it could be done with aluminum

 

[mike paulson]

I've given the stabilizer square tubes alittle thought and I'm thinking I may just keep a pair of wheel chocks in the tractors bucket and kick them in behind the rear wheels when pulling lumber. I have this condition caused by age called "forgetfulness" where I forget little things like raising my dirt scoop and even my loader bucket at times and drive off. I'd hate to be zipping thru the woods or across my lawn with those suckers in the down position ***They do however make great handles for removing and moving the unit for storage..

 

[Stomper]

Thanks mike and good idea on the wheel chocks.
Quick question on the valves you guys are using to run your winches. Do they have a motor spool in them or the standard one for cylinders. Some one on another sit said that I need a motor spool for proper operation of the motor. Seemed to be working fine to me. Whats the difference.

 

[mike paulson]

Thanks mike and good idea on the wheel chocks.
Quick question on the valves you guys are using to run your winches. Do they have a motor spool in them or the standard one for cylinders. Some one on another sit said that I need a motor spool for proper operation of the motor. Seemed to be working fine to me. Whats the difference.

Stomp I'm not sure how that flow valve that CMorse and I used would work in conjunction to a spool valve. As I understand it, and as that valve works in my setup is it's like a simple rheostat or flow amount valve. The lever when moved speeds up or slows the motors RPM. It is also a shutoff when the lever is all the way closed. It bypasses fluid when pressure exceeds a factory set 1500 PSI or when the lever is in the closed position. The relief is adjustable. I'm not much on hydraulic knowledge but like having the valve in the circuit as a shutoff and an additional way to control Capstan RPM without having to reach in the tractors throttle. Hope this helps.

 

[mike paulson]

Stomp I'm not sure how that flow valve that CMorse and I used would work in conjunction to a spool valve. As I understand it, and as that valve works in my setup is it's like a simple rheostat or flow amount valve. The lever when moved speeds up or slows the motors RPM. It is also a shutoff when the lever is all the way closed. It bypasses fluid when pressure exceeds a factory set 1500 PSI or when the lever is in the closed position. The relief is adjustable. I'm not much on hydraulic knowledge but like having the valve in the circuit as a shutoff and an additional way to control Capstan RPM without having to reach in the tractors throttle. Hope this helps.

PS. I'm using this flow valve directly from my tractors pump without a spool valve just to clarify

 

[Stomper]

I'm not sure you are understanding what I asked, or.... maybe I'm not undertsanding your reply. LOL. Some times I can have difficulty explaining thing.
To clarify, I installed two sets of rear remotes on my tractor that are controled by one, two spool valve (see link). I installed a detent in the one valve that I am using for the capstan to keep it in the "on" position when using the winch. There is a motor spool available for this valve (see link). I posted the same question on another tractor forum and one of the members said that I need to put a motor spool in the valve that I am using for the capstan or I could damage my hyraulic system form the sudden stop of taking the valve out of the detent "on" position. What I am not understanding is whats the difference between a hydraulic motor stopping suddenly or a cylinder stopping suddenly. From the description of the motor spool, all it does is let the motor freewheel or let a cylinder float. The capstan works fine the way it is and there is no noticable "hammer" when I take it out the detent position.

two spool valve
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/bm40-2-spool-directional-control-valve/A-p8669723e

Motor spool
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/bm30-40-motor-spool/A-p1259084e

 

[boz1989]

A regular valve is like going from drive to park with your car. A motor valve would be like drive to neutral, it can coast. If you have a high speed motor, or one with a lot of rotating mass, this sudden stop could cause hose/motor, or other hydraulic issues.
In this case, you have little mass, and very little speed, I don't think you will have any issues.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

 

[mike paulson]

As Boz states there's really little or no rotating mass in our capstan setups. That's the beauty of a capstan system. Imagine spinning a huge 3 ft diameter , three inch thick steel wheel on a hydraulic Motor, then suddenly shutting flow to that motor. The inertia that wheel would have at that point if spinning at say 200rpms would be huge. But any damage I would think would be post spool valve in the circuit anyway. I think your concerns are with delivery to your spool valve when suddenly throwing it out of the detent position, and there shouldn't be any if my thinking is correct ,or shouldn't be any different that a spool valve operating a motor or a cylinder. Give the guys in the tech Dept at Hydraulic Surplus Center a call and discribe your circuit. The tech named Mike is very helpful and might help with putting your mind at ease because I known damaging something in the tractors hyd system is scary as hell.

 

[Stomper]

Thanks for the great explanations guys. I understand now. It makes total sence with the extremely low rotating mass and extremely low speed that the capstan have that this isn't really a concern. But I could see it if there was more speed and/or mass.

 

[crmorse]

Fellow capstaners, I'm about to embark on a new build and I'd like your thoughts. I've got a bunch of 20-24" red oaks that came down this year due to all the rains and storms that I need to fish out of my woods. However, the access is pretty tough so I think I need a log arch.

I found this log arch that is pretty darn cool and could be towed up the slopes by our log winches.

i've started a [potential] build thread here:
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=376392#post376392

 

[crmorse]

Great news! I finally got out do some logging today. I pulled up four 17"x10'+ red oak logs and it worked great.

I still had a little trouble with the rope trying to climb over itself but I finally found the little rope "ramp" guide thingy and since I can weld now I'll give that another try.

Another thing that worked out just great is I made a "nose cone" for pulling logs. You see these commercially but they're pretty expensive. I happened to have an extra blue 55gal plastic barrel lying around so I tried that. I just drilled a 4" hole in the bottom 1/3rd of the bottom and cut it off about 1.5' from the end. You feed the choker chain through the hole and hook up to your pulling rope and that's it! It self loads into the cone and the rounded corners do great at helping it slide and even sometimes will redirect a log off of an obstacle like a stump or other tree. When it's time to unload just remove the choker chain and most of the time the cone just pulls right out. Worst case, just roll the log a bit and it should come out from under it.

Here's a pic of it in use.

 

[mike paulson]

Yes, I think you'll be happy with the guide wedge. I'll post those pics of my Arch later. I'll also post pics of the skid cone I made out of a 55gl drum, lmao. We must work on some lunar parallel thought pattern..