Which Thread locker (Loctite) to use for wheel spacers?

JeepinMaxx

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I'm hoping to install my new wheel spacers today. The manufacturer recommends using a thread locking compound. Which one do you folks use? Red or Blue? I assume only on the studs holding the spacer to the hub (not the spacer to wheel studs)

 

CobraTom

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If you don't intend on removing the spacers after install, use Red. Red is permanent. Only use it on the spacer bolts to the wheel hub. Do not use it on the Spacer to Wheel bolts.
 

John T

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Red.

And FWIW
green is permanent or I should say, the strongest....

That said,
There are about 30 different kinds of loctite for all kinds of applications

But I digress....
LoL
yeah
I’d use red.


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Lil Foot

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I use blue 242 almost exclusively. I have never had any kind of a failure or loosening with 242. Just be sure everything is clean & dry.
I seldom use any of the reds or greens except on stuff like locating pins that I never want to remove again.
I spent too many hours trying to disassemble/rework assemblies that some one had put together with red/green instead of blue.
 

Daren Todd

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Don't just go by the color. Read what it says on the bottle. There is Red (high strengh) as well as Red (high temperature).

You can break a nut or bolt loose with a little MOJO using the high strengh loctite. The high temperature needs to be heated to 1000 degrees before removing the nut/ bolts. If not, chanced are good you'll break the bolt or nut or strip it out.

On bolts smaller then 1/2", 13mm, use the blue.

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Bulldog

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I'd use a good torque wrench and tighten to the correct specs and forget the locktite. May want to remove then at some point.
 

SidecarFlip

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I'd use a good torque wrench and tighten to the correct specs and forget the locktite. May want to remove then at some point.
Exactly. In reality, any grade of threadlocker, wicking or not can be released by heating the part.
 

bxray

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Since you can. Ot see them use threadlock.
Blue should be fine.
Red may make it hard to service later.
And use a torque whench.

Ray
 

JeepinMaxx

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Thanks for the feedback. I used permatex red high temperature.




I torqued the bolts to 100 ft/lb. I have a torch if ever need to take them off. The tube squirted a little too much on the 1st lug i did!



I like how the BroTek spacers are hub centric

 

Sodark

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Red. It's "high strength", but if you actually read the print, it specifies which to use according to bolt/nut size. IIRC and without researching, I believe anything over .5 or .75" calls for red and below that, blue. Further, it's not like you're welding it on. Either muscle it off with a breaker bar or if you're feeling particularly delicate, heat it up with a soldering iron, propane/map torch, etc.
 
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baronetm

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Another reason for using Loctite is it inhibits the integration of moisture. It fills the gaps between the threads hence no rust, in this case I would use Blue, and the previous mentioned torque wrench.
 
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motorhead

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Though you have already done it, I would have recommended the BLUE Loctite. I would also have suggested that you clean the bolt threads and the threads on the axle flange with laquer thinner or acetone to make sure there was no oil or grease.
 

mike paulson

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I'm a mechanic for over 30 years, 15 yrs at GM and 15 yrs Diesel/Truck mechanic. I have never ever had a properly torqued lug nut come loose, and have never used locktite on any wheel. Just saying.
 

SidecarFlip

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I'm a mechanic for over 30 years, 15 yrs at GM and 15 yrs Diesel/Truck mechanic. I have never ever had a properly torqued lug nut come loose, and have never used locktite on any wheel. Just saying.
My comment was going to be.... Have you ever used threadlocker on your vehicle lug nuts? We all know the answer, of course not. Why then would you use threadlocker on the lug nuts of your CUT? Makes no sense to me. Properly torqued and checked after running in, they won't loosen up.

You beat me to it however.....:)
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Sidecarflip, and mike paulson,
You use thread locker on the bolts and nuts for the adapters because:
#1 They are not tapered flange bolts they are flat that hold the adapter to the axle.
#2 You can not see the bolts that hold on the adapters when the wheel is attached, let alone easily retighten them, thus a extra margin of safety of the bolts not being able to loosen on their own is a very wise choice.

I would only have used used Blue, but thats me.