R4 with chains vs turf.. worth it?

[Vidiot]

The scenario: BX2680 bought with turfs. They worked great when it was dry out but I had big traction issues when it was wet out so I bought R4s. Traction problem solved and no damage when mowing.

And now... the snow.

I kept the turfs "just in case". First snowfall Thursday was 6" and with the R4s on I couldn't make it up a hill that last year with turfs I had no issues.

My question is this: If I buy chains for the R4s will they react the same or at least close to the turfs on snow? Or do I stack an extra set of tires in the garage half the year. I'd like to sell the turfs if I can get similar performance with R4s and chains but I'm hesitant to spend the money without a clue as to how well they would work and/or what type to get.

Any tips, hints or suggestions appreciated!

 

[edritchey]

Chains will make a huge difference on any type tires weight will also help.

 

[Vidiot]

Thanks Ed, I forgot to mention the rears are loaded. Just trying to figure out if the expenditure is worth it so I ran sell the turfs.

 

[edritchey]

I can't imagine they would cost that much did you check "Tractortirechains.com" They have good prices and fast shipping.

Thanks Ed, I forgot to mention the rears are loaded. Just trying to figure out if the expenditure is worth it so I ran sell the turfs.

 

[conropl]

Chains on your R4's will easily outperform your turf tires.

If you get ladder chains, get 2 link chains... not 4 link. 2 link means how many chain links between chains that go across the tire. With 2 link, the chains are closer together... 4 link gets a little far apart.

If you put chains on the front and rear, it will help your steering as well.

Chains can scratch up you pavement. I never had the problem, but others have complained about that. Normal ladder chains should be aggressive enough... especially if turf tires worked for you in the past. So stay away from the ones with the extra "V" cleats welded on for extra traction. I would think they would do more damage than they are worth it.
Edit: Just to be clear - The more aggressive chain with "V" cleats may not be worth it on pavement, but no issue on dirt or gravel. However, it still does not sound like you need to get that aggressive anyway.

Good luck.

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[fruitcakesa]

Chains on your R4's will easily outperform your turf tires.

If you get ladder chains, get 2 link chains... not 4 link. 2 link means how many chain links between chains that go across the tire. With 2 link, the chains are closer together... 4 link gets a little far apart.

If you put chains on the front and rear, it will help your steering as well.

Chains can scratch up you pavement. I never had the problem, but others have complained about that. Normal ladder chains should be aggressive enough... especially if turf tires worked for you in the past. So stay away from the ones with the extra "V" cleats welded on for extra traction. I would think they would do more damage than they are worth.

Good luck.

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Chains can be pretty destructive but I opted for full wrap double diamond lugged chains.
I go in the woods , everywhere I drive is gravel or dirt and I live on steep rough property so I went full out with lugged units.
They are also very heavy, 150-200 per side.

 

[Vidiot]

Thanks all for the tips and advice, I'll give it a try. I have no pavement of any type, just dirt gravel and farm field so I'll just stay away from the parts I mow in the summer.
If the chains do in fact out perform the turfs, you'll be seeing a low hour full set of turfs for sale in the near future!

 

[mikester]

Chains on the R4s can be harder to get and keep tight and I find they tend to walk side to side more. Make sure you have a good set of spiders to keep tension on the chains.

I personally avoid putting chains on until the driveway turns into an ice rink. My experience is that the R4s are superior to turfs for traction all year round and I rarely need to use chains unless Im trying to roughen up the ice or chew up my cement floors.

 

[RCW]

It's the ONLY way I can get around.
Like others said, keep them tight. I don't have spacers on a BX2360.

Been considering front chains for years. Someday probably. If sheepfarmer likes them, I'm okay with that!

Bought these before first winter 5 years ago. Been great. They aren't shiny like when new, but shiny doesn't provide traction!

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[Vidiot]

So along the lines of keeping them tight... Being a newbie having never used chains before, I see people use bungie cords on the outside to keep them tight which makes sense. My question is do you also do that in the inside of the tire too? If not, what keeps the chains from flopping towards the tension of the outside? Or is it a form fit in that pulling to the outside keeps it snug on the inside.
Just trying to understand how it all works.

 

[RCW]

My question is do you also do that in the inside of the tire too? If not, what keeps the chains from flopping towards the tension of the outside? Or is it a form fit in that pulling to the outside keeps it snug on the inside.

Only apply tension to the outside.

Take up all the slack on the inside, ie., make the inside hook at tight as possible.

When you apply tension to outside, there isn't room enough for them to shuffle off the tire.

You usually have to drive them around for a little at first to "run them in," tighten up again inside/outside, run/tighten, etc.

 

[GBJeffOH]

I have front and rear chains with a 8' plow on my L3540 HST. It has tons of traction. I have 1,200 lbs on the three point also.

 

[Vidiot]

Thanks RCW, that's what I was looking for.

I'm actually looking forward to the next snow now! Eh, that'll probably change though.