Added Rear Remotes and TnT

[Paulwestski]

Finished up my rear remote and top and tilt install on my new Kubota L3800 this week.
The spool valve and hoses are from Surplus center. I went with a four spool Wolverine valve.
All of my fittings were purchased from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they're close enough to me that standard ground shipping is overnight.

I decided the best place to mount the valve was on top of the loader valve. I fabricated a mounting bracket out of scrap steel from the scrap rack.
Aside from the welding to fabricate the spool valve bracket the entire install is a drill a few holes and bolt on installation.

I wanted to mount the new spool valve lower to the loader valve but needed enough clearance to operate the loader valve lockout. In reality the loader will probably always be mounted except to service the engine.

The rear remote mounting location was a challenge. My L3800 has the factory backhoe. the remotes had to be out of the way to clear the backhoe and of course the 3pt and top and tilt. It took a lot of prototyping to make it work. There's not a lot of space back there on the L3800 and I didn't want the install to look like a strap on after thought. My final decision was to mount to the side of the ROPS. I fabricated a mounting plate and used U-bolts to attach. Grainger had the best price on the U-bolts, only because they don't charge shipping if you pick up from one of their branch stores.

I'm not going to go into a bunch of detail on the hydraulic plumbing. It's really so simple once you understand the whole power beyond concept.

I've only plumbed two of the valves to serve the top and tilt remotes for now. The other two are capped and I haven't installed the handles. Once I add hydraulics to some of my 3pt attachments I'll complete the plumbing and mounting of the other two remotes.

The top and tilt cylinders came from Fit Rite. Brian was great to work with and is very knowledgeable about the whole T&T setup.

And it didn't hurt that he has the best pricing and quick turn around.

I had ordered the T&T cylinder kit from Brian before I took delivery of the tractor. I thought that I was was getting a Kubota L3400. Brady Barlow emailed me and said that since the backhoe sub frame for the L3400 was on back order he was going to upgrade me to a L3800 for the same price. I couldn't complain. Brian at Fit Rite said there were subtle differences in the tilt cylinder length. All-though It seems to work just fine with the HF quick hitch mounted. I'll know for sure once I take the tractor back to the mountain property where all of the 3pt attachments are stored and test the T&T.

 

[Kytim]

WoW! Nice Job... looks like a well thought out addition. I would be proud to have such a setup.

kytim

 

[Rick442guy]

Very nice install. You have inspired me to do something similar on my L3200. Thanks for the great pictures.

 

[osut362]

you will love it....al

 

[Paulwestski]

Very nice install. You have inspired me to do something similar on my L3200. Thanks for the great pictures.

Rick
If you need some help I'm not too far from ya.....I live in VA Beach when I'm not playing in the mountains.

 

[TripleR]

Very nice setup.

 

[Paulwestski]

Anyone getting ready to order a T&T for your Kubota L3400 or L2800??

When I had my tilt cylinder made I thought that I was getting a L3400 and then Brady Barlow upgraded me to a L3800.

According to Brian at FitRite my tilt cylinder is too long.

I was hoping to trade cylinders with someone that is getting ready to order a T&T set up from FitRite for their L2800/L3400.
I haven't yet had a chance to use my T&T yet. All I've been able to do is mount it, plumb it and mount the quick hitch.
Thank the good Lord I'm so busy at work......... I cant get up to the mountain property and get any seat time in.

 

[markes]

The rear remote mounting location was a challenge. My L3800 has the factory backhoe. the remotes had to be out of the way to clear the backhoe and of course the 3pt and top and tilt.

Hey there -- I know this is an older thread but I'm getting ready to add remotes to my L3800 also. If you had to do it again, would you have picked the same location for the valve body (on top of the FEL control)? or would you have put it to the right of the seat/back of the 3PT hitch lever like some others have done?

Your setup looks like it was easier to install since it's in the "open space" on top of the FEL control, but I think the ergonomics of having the valve handles to the right of the seat is better.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[Paulwestski]

Hey there -- I know this is an older thread but I'm getting ready to add remotes to my L3800 also. If you had to do it again, would you have picked the same location for the valve body (on top of the FEL control)? or would you have put it to the right of the seat/back of the 3PT hitch lever like some others have done?

Your setup looks like it was easier to install since it's in the "open space" on top of the FEL control, but I think the ergonomics of having the valve handles to the right of the seat is better.

Thanks!

Mark

I did consider mounting on top of the fender (with added support of course)
But with a four spool valve that's 11 hoses. Pretty busy and potential safety factor if you developed a leak.
If I was doing it again I'd used a dedicated valve for the top and tilt. A loader type valve with one control handle. Probably mounted underneath the seat area, control handle to the right of the seat.
The third function for loader grapple etc. would be a dedicated loader handle mounted rocker switch tied into a solenoid valve.
If you needed more circuits for the three point i.e. blade pivot, offset, retractable scarifiers, you could just add a electric diverter to the tilt circuit.

Send Brian with Fit Rite Hydraulics a email he may able to give you some input.

Look on eBay you may just find a factory remote kit.
The factory setup if you can get it for a good price is the best way to add the remotes.

What do you intend to control ?

Best option on my tractor besides the front loader is the top and tilt.
It makes any kind of grading earth work soooo much easier and more precise.

 

[speedymph1000]

I did consider mounting on top of the fender (with added support of course)
But with a four spool valve that's 11 hoses. Pretty busy and potential safety factor if you developed a leak.
If I was doing it again I'd used a dedicated valve for the top and tilt. A loader type valve with one control handle. Probably mounted underneath the seat area, control handle to the right of the seat.
The third function for loader grapple etc. would be a dedicated loader handle mounted rocker switch tied into a solenoid valve.
If you needed more circuits for the three point i.e. blade pivot, offset, retractable scarifiers, you could just add a electric diverter to the tilt circuit.

Send Brian with Fit Rite Hydraulics a email he may able to give you some input.

Look on eBay you may just find a factory remote kit.
The factory setup if you can get it for a good price is the best way to add the remotes.

What do you intend to control ?

Best option on my tractor besides the front loader is the top and tilt.
It makes any kind of grading earth work soooo much easier and more precise.

I'm kinda dumb to the power beyond setup My L3901 has a factory mounted BH77 on it and I was wondering if You had a picture of how You plumbed into the power beyond on the distribution block under the floor board? I'm gonna do this same thing to mine to I'm looking for the best way to do it without paying out for the Kubota one. I can make My own hydraulic lines I just have to buy the valves I want to use and make some brackets for mounting.

 

[markes]

What do you intend to control ?

Best option on my tractor besides the front loader is the top and tilt.
It makes any kind of grading earth work soooo much easier and more precise.

I'd like to start with a top link. I rarely need to tilt anything on the 3pt but if I'm going to add the valve body for the top, I'll add the valve for the tilt, plug the holes and remove the handle and add it later if I need it.

The other thing I'd like is a remote for the FEL (grapple) or a power tach as I'm switching between the bucket and pallet forks a lot of the time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8JSGhBCutc

So, I was thinking that I would either add a 3 spool valve to the right of the seat and start with plumbing 1 of them for the top link. then just add the other 2 when I wanted/needed them.

Is the spool for your top link a floating one?

Also, are your top and tilt cylinders locking ones? It doesn't look like they have the locking "block" on the side of the cylinders.

Thanks
Mark

 

[markes]

I'm kinda dumb to the power beyond setup My L3901 has a factory mounted BH77 on it and I was wondering if You had a picture of how You plumbed into the power beyond on the distribution block under the floor board? I'm gonna do this same thing to mine to I'm looking for the best way to do it without paying out for the Kubota one. I can make My own hydraulic lines I just have to buy the valves I want to use and make some brackets for mounting.

The PB concept is really easy on the Kubota L's -- Just think of it this way: High Pressure comes from the pump and goes into the valve body. When the spools are in neutral/center, that high pressure passes through the valve body and out the PB port back to the distribution block. So, PB is just the "output" of the high pressure when it's not being routed out a work port. The last "work port" in this entire chain is the 3PT Hitch lift.

the PB line on the Kubota's distribution block is usually the one with the green tape on the hose and will have PB or PY labeled. So you'll basically want to put your new remote valve body inline between the FEL's PB out port (connecting this to the HP in on your new valve body) and then connect the PB out of your new valve body back to the PB input on the distribution block.

Hope that answers your question.

Mark

 

[Lennyzx11]

Paul I realize this is an old thread. Do you have a picture of the mounting of your mounting plate to the tractor? That angle pracing and where it's mounted to the loader frame?
I have the same valve and putting it on a L3301.
Lenny

Finished up my rear remote and top and tilt install on my new Kubota L3800 this week.
The spool valve and hoses are from Surplus center. I went with a four spool Wolverine valve.
All of my fittings were purchased from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they're close enough to me that standard ground shipping is overnight.

I decided the best place to mount the valve was on top of the loader valve. I fabricated a mounting bracket out of scrap steel from the scrap rack.
Aside from the welding to fabricate the spool valve bracket the entire install is a drill a few holes and bolt on installation.

I wanted to mount the new spool valve lower to the loader valve but needed enough clearance to operate the loader valve lockout. In reality the loader will probably always be mounted except to service the engine.

The rear remote mounting location was a challenge. My L3800 has the factory backhoe. the remotes had to be out of the way to clear the backhoe and of course the 3pt and top and tilt. It took a lot of prototyping to make it work. There's not a lot of space back there on the L3800 and I didn't want the install to look like a strap on after thought. My final decision was to mount to the side of the ROPS. I fabricated a mounting plate and used U-bolts to attach. Grainger had the best price on the U-bolts, only because they don't charge shipping if you pick up from one of their branch stores.

I'm not going to go into a bunch of detail on the hydraulic plumbing. It's really so simple once you understand the whole power beyond concept.

I've only plumbed two of the valves to serve the top and tilt remotes for now. The other two are capped and I haven't installed the handles. Once I add hydraulics to some of my 3pt attachments I'll complete the plumbing and mounting of the other two remotes.

The top and tilt cylinders came from Fit Rite. Brian was great to work with and is very knowledgeable about the whole T&T setup.

And it didn't hurt that he has the best pricing and quick turn around.

I had ordered the T&T cylinder kit from Brian before I took delivery of the tractor. I thought that I was was getting a Kubota L3400. Brady Barlow emailed me and said that since the backhoe sub frame for the L3400 was on back order he was going to upgrade me to a L3800 for the same price. I couldn't complain. Brian at Fit Rite said there were subtle differences in the tilt cylinder length. All-though It seems to work just fine with the HF quick hitch mounted. I'll know for sure once I take the tractor back to the mountain property where all of the 3pt attachments are stored and test the T&T.

 

[Paulwestski]

Paul I realize this is an old thread. Do you have a picture of the mounting of your mounting plate to the tractor? That angle pracing and where it's mounted to the loader frame?
I have the same valve and putting it on a L3301.
Lenny

I traded that tractor in on a L4240 let me see if I have any other photos of the spool valve mount. It was a custom mount that I designed and fabricated.

 

[Lennyzx11]

I traded that tractor in on a L4240 let me see if I have any other photos of the spool valve mount. It was a custom mount that I designed and fabricated.

Paul, that’s exactly what I needed!
Thank you,
Lenny


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[Paulwestski]

Paul, that’s exactly what I needed!
Thank you,
Lenny


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You're welcome..good luck with your install.

 

[Lennyzx11]

So had some time today and weather not brutal so started mocking up the bracket.
First was dropping the loader. I don’t hardly take it as far because it always seems to be a PITA to get back on. Probably from dropping it on ground instead of concrete.

Then fired up the plasma cutter, welder, drill press, grinder, and of course everything thing else buried under something else.

First order of business was removing the plastic cover.

HINT! You only need to remove the 3 outside screws. The other two hold the hydraulic lockout mechanism in place.

Hint 2. That little knob pulls off with a little twist and pull with pliers so don’t go redneck on it.

I shorted you guys on some build pics. Like the one where I cut the vertical piece first with the backwards angles and then too short to be elevated like I wanted.

But “eventually” I got it somewhat together. The plasma cutter from Hypertherm hates a 20 amp breaker on the end of a drop cord (I was warned) so the cutting needed unplanned breaks for me to walk my butt over to the other garage where the breaker was to reset. Repeatedly. 30 amp breaker will be installed and 220 volt ASAP!
So here’s the end of day 1. More to do. I want that floating end to be supported. And then all cleaned up, primed, and painted.

And the obligatory welds of course. .035 Flux core on 110 volts.

All in all, a good days work and enjoyed it. Tomorrow bad weather rolls in so I hope I can move forward without moving the tractor back outside to get the third point of support fabbed up, support angle and tab made, and primed and painted up.


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[Tropical Jack]

This was looking good to me! What happened to this project?

Jack

 

[Lennyzx11]

I’m still on it. My job involves a lot of travel so I’ve been gone. I have to measure for the hoses, make and mount the bulkhead connector brackets on the ROPs are the next steps when I get home.

Here’s the current view.

And I used a professional painter for the bracket!

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[Tropical Jack]

Always worth it to hire a professional!