First post here guys. We live down almost a mile of AZ desert dirt road that gets washboarded when dry and also cut up when raining. The rains flows quickly downhill across the road and leaves deep ruts in some areas and excess sand in others. The ground is very hard during the dry months so I'm not sure a compact tractor box blade or scraper could cut through the surface. What do you recommend for smoothing out the road? I have my own preliminary ideas after reading through several forums and watching online videos, but would like to hear from the people here that have been there and done that.
Dirt Road Maintenance
- Thread starter Werstlna
- Start date
Some quick questions before some advise.
What size-model of tractor do you have?
What do you have in mind to deal with where the water runs across the road?
If you don't mind, what implements do you have and about what kind of $$$ are you willing to spend for additional implement-s to get the job done right and be able to easily maintain the road?
Any and or all of that information will help a lot in what gets recommended. It's easy to recommend all the best equipment to deal with things, but a waste of time and effort if it simply is not in the cards.
Let us know so that we can actually make reasonable recommendations for you.
What size-model of tractor do you have?
What do you have in mind to deal with where the water runs across the road?
If you don't mind, what implements do you have and about what kind of $$$ are you willing to spend for additional implement-s to get the job done right and be able to easily maintain the road?
Any and or all of that information will help a lot in what gets recommended. It's easy to recommend all the best equipment to deal with things, but a waste of time and effort if it simply is not in the cards.
Let us know so that we can actually make reasonable recommendations for you.
Currently I have no tractor, just a 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup. There is little to be done about water rushing across the road, when it rains water flows quickly through the washes and any small dip becomes a mini wash. I'm thinking filling the ruts with material after heavy rain is the only practical solution. The wider washes get filled with so much sand that delivery and trash trucks have gotten stuck.
I'm open to various budget options as long as they make sense. I'm certainly not looking to spend over $30k. Used equipment is a viable option.
I'm open to various budget options as long as they make sense. I'm certainly not looking to spend over $30k. Used equipment is a viable option.
Well, to start with, nothing under 50HP in my opinion. What is considered a large compact tractor. I would be looking at a tractor larger than that myself. Something in the full size utility class. Assuming since you are asking in a Kubota forum that you are considering a Kubota. Look for something in the M series tractors. You can get by with a larger Grand L or an MX, but an M series will get the work done easier and faster.
First implement to get is a LPGS. (land plane grading scraper) something up around or preferably over 1000lbs. While this is not a good implement for shaping the road, it is definitely the implement to maintain it once it is shaped how you want it. I would actually use the LPGS to start with just to get the ground all smooth and evened out. It is much easier to then use a rear blade to shape the road how it needs to be shaped to deal with the water the best that it can be without spending a fortune.
Depending on what tractor you end up with, but I would say either a 6' or 7' unit would be a good match to maintain your road.
Once you get the road smoothed out, a good hydraulic actuated rear blade would be the implement of choice to get everything shaped up how it needs to be. Something 8' wide and a minimum around 800lbs. Be sure to get skid shoes with ANY rear blade that you get. They just make grading easier.
Be sure to get a canopy if you don't get a cab tractor. They sure make life better.
First implement to get is a LPGS. (land plane grading scraper) something up around or preferably over 1000lbs. While this is not a good implement for shaping the road, it is definitely the implement to maintain it once it is shaped how you want it. I would actually use the LPGS to start with just to get the ground all smooth and evened out. It is much easier to then use a rear blade to shape the road how it needs to be shaped to deal with the water the best that it can be without spending a fortune.
Depending on what tractor you end up with, but I would say either a 6' or 7' unit would be a good match to maintain your road.
Once you get the road smoothed out, a good hydraulic actuated rear blade would be the implement of choice to get everything shaped up how it needs to be. Something 8' wide and a minimum around 800lbs. Be sure to get skid shoes with ANY rear blade that you get. They just make grading easier.
Be sure to get a canopy if you don't get a cab tractor. They sure make life better.
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Lil Foot
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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
If the road is a forest service road, there is another thing to consider- the forest service may not allow you to alter the road in any way. No grading, filling in holes or low spots, adding gravel, culverts, etc..
I have two acquaintances (one in Coconino county, one near New River) who have been fighting the forest service for years on this issue.
Hopefully this will not be a problem for you. Judging by your pics, you will need all the tractor you can afford- you will need multiple passes, and I'm assuming the road is longer than your pics show.
I have two acquaintances (one in Coconino county, one near New River) who have been fighting the forest service for years on this issue.
Hopefully this will not be a problem for you. Judging by your pics, you will need all the tractor you can afford- you will need multiple passes, and I'm assuming the road is longer than your pics show.
It's not a forest road, Bill. It is an unmaintained county road that the residents either tolerate as-is or have to self-improve.
What are your thoughts on pulling a land planer / grader scraper behind a 4x4 pickup? Something like a Land Pride GS1572 or GS2572. Videos appear to show that the implement follow the contours of the road and although a 3 point lift would be ideal the tool essentially is just drug along.
I'm not sure a 50+ HP tractor is in the cards.
What are your thoughts on pulling a land planer / grader scraper behind a 4x4 pickup? Something like a Land Pride GS1572 or GS2572. Videos appear to show that the implement follow the contours of the road and although a 3 point lift would be ideal the tool essentially is just drug along.
I'm not sure a 50+ HP tractor is in the cards.
Welcome to the OTT forum. As you can see a great place to get answers.
I don't think MVR understands what happens when it rains there. The only thing you can do when it rains is get to high ground and wait it out.
When I lived out there, there was a wash on both sides of the area we lived in so when it rained, we were stuck until the water stop flowing. It didn't help that a lot of streets were banked to make the water flow down them.
I don't think MVR understands what happens when it rains there. The only thing you can do when it rains is get to high ground and wait it out.
When I lived out there, there was a wash on both sides of the area we lived in so when it rained, we were stuck until the water stop flowing. It didn't help that a lot of streets were banked to make the water flow down them.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
There are ATV land plane models that can be pulled with an ATV or a pickup, I wouldn't try it with a three point model, no way to keep it skiing strait.
You could pull it off with a simple drag too.
You could pull it off with a simple drag too.
Start simple, then upgrade if needed.
https://www.progressiveforage.com/forage-production/equipment/homemade-tire-drag
https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=28145
Make a steel version:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_road_drag
Got an old boat trailer?
https://www.whateverwheels.co.uk/m28b0s516p13354/
Old mobile home tongue? Clip front corner, drag sideways.
https://www.progressiveforage.com/forage-production/equipment/homemade-tire-drag
https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=28145
Make a steel version:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King_road_drag
Got an old boat trailer?
https://www.whateverwheels.co.uk/m28b0s516p13354/
Old mobile home tongue? Clip front corner, drag sideways.
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Lil Foot
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Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Unless your road is a lot less hard packed than most AZ dirt roads, I'm not sure the tire drags & such will improve the road much. They will drag loose material into low spots, but won't do much with the washboard bumps & high spots. The mobile home tongue concept (heavy, steel, somewhat of a cutting edge) would be better.
I know a guy in the Snowflake area with a road similar to yours; he & his neighbors pay a local tractor guy to grade the road once a year with a box blade.
Then once the road is in shape, they drag a large I-beam (6"x12"x10'?) crosswise with some chains. They pull it with a 4x4 pickup leaving the property, then drop it at the end of the road. When they return, they drag it back. Neighbors take turns, and the road lasts about a year, then they start the process over again.
I know a guy in the Snowflake area with a road similar to yours; he & his neighbors pay a local tractor guy to grade the road once a year with a box blade.
Then once the road is in shape, they drag a large I-beam (6"x12"x10'?) crosswise with some chains. They pull it with a 4x4 pickup leaving the property, then drop it at the end of the road. When they return, they drag it back. Neighbors take turns, and the road lasts about a year, then they start the process over again.
I understand that if there is a heavy rain that the gullies fill up and washes are full, but how often does that actually happen? I mean, how much rain fall does the OP actually get there in that area of AZ? Does this happen once or twice a year, so what, go have some fun and fix it when that happens.
Other wise just keep the road in nice driving shape with a LPGS. Even with the road being over a mile long, with no rain (most of the year?) you are looking at a half day of grading every other month or so.
I would not even consider any light weight tow behind implement. A waste of time and money IMO.
Good luck to the OP.
Other wise just keep the road in nice driving shape with a LPGS. Even with the road being over a mile long, with no rain (most of the year?) you are looking at a half day of grading every other month or so.
I would not even consider any light weight tow behind implement. A waste of time and money IMO.
Good luck to the OP.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Look here
http://www.domorequipment.com/tp-series-grader/
Or DR Equipment DR Power Grader may work
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
http://www.domorequipment.com/tp-series-grader/
Or DR Equipment DR Power Grader may work
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Take a look around Youtube. There are a few videos showing equipment that I towable behind trucks and other ATV equipment. If that's all you need it for why buy a tractor? A land plane type would work if you could control the height remotely. Look around. I am sure I have seen equipment that would suffice. Look at "Domor" equipment. TP series graders.
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This looks promising. I requested info/price for the domoreqipment 7 foot model TP-84 weighing 1,100 lbs. The ability to pull behind a pickup and still control height adjustment is appealing. What is everyone's opinion on the ability of this tool to cut through the earlier mentioned road surface? After a rain may be the best time to grade since the ground is pliable. During dry season it gets really packed hard. We get significant rainfall during summer monsoon and then sporadically throughout the rest of the year.
To answer some other comments, adding culverts would quickly accumulate sand and would be costly and time intensive. Dragging light materials, e.g. Fencing or tires, simply bounce along the road. I've seen various home made contraptions that usually include some kind of steel frame or railroad ties being pulled behind a pickup with cinder blocks weighting it down. The results are disappointing; the washboard doesn't get cut, no material transfers to the cut low spots, and we're still looking for a bit more job-specific tool.
This looks promising. I requested info for the domorequipment 7 foot model TP-84 weighing 1,175 lbs. The ability to pull behind a pickup and still control height adjustment is appealing. What is everyone's opinion on the ability of this tool to cut through washboard? The ideal time for grading is after rainfall when the surface is more pliable, so that may be the answer.
To answer some other comments, adding culverts would quickly accumulate sand and would be costly and time intensive. Dragging light materials, e.g. Fencing or tires, simply bounce along the road. I've seen various hone made contraptions that usually include some kind of steel frame or railroad ties being pulled behind a pickup with cinder blocks weighting it down. The results are disappointing, the washboard doesn't get cut, no material transfers to the cut low spots, and we're still looking for a more job-specific effective tool.
NOTHING will work as good as a LPGS, specifically on wash boarding.
I don't believe you will find any tow behind product that will make you happy with the results for the job that you need to do and maintain.
I'm near Concho, AZ, at 5600 ft. on unimproved dirt roads in area of 40 acre parcels. My neighbor and I just acquired a 1989 Kubota L2550 with FEL and a 6 foot CountyLine 3pt blade, and 5 foot CountryLine drag box for our road maintenance (about 1 mile of hilly road total). While it's no grader and reshaping the road grade substantially is difficult and slow, it does do the job. We wait for good moisture conditions; it will not readily move dry hardpacked clay. The blade is used to move material from the shoulders into the road to fill gulleys, the box is the primary road grading tool, with FEL used for pot hole filling. Either the blade at 45 degrees or the box would do your washboard if it was rain softened a bit. We plan to add 150lbs to the low side of the blade to improve cutting power. If one of us stands on it, it cuts like fiend. Both blade and box are ideal, if I could only have one the box is the hands down winner.
I had my doubts about the compact size of the L2550, but with 4WD, filled rear wheels and reasonable expectations it does the job quite well and we are very happy with our low budget DIY road grading. As it happens we've had a few inches of rain in October, something that has never happened before in the last 40 years. Our road is looking pretty damn good.
I had my doubts about the compact size of the L2550, but with 4WD, filled rear wheels and reasonable expectations it does the job quite well and we are very happy with our low budget DIY road grading. As it happens we've had a few inches of rain in October, something that has never happened before in the last 40 years. Our road is looking pretty damn good.
Just a little food for thought if it truly is a County Road: Around here, if you contract with the county road department to maintain a given stretch of road, you qualify for government pricing on tractors and implements through Kubota, Case IH and John Deere. Only applies to NEW equipment purchases and you must have a signed contract. I know on green and red it amounts to very nearly a 30% discount from suggested list. The dealer sells at a loss and gets a credit memo from the manufacturer to get them back to the break-even point. The dealer profits from future parts and service sales. Something worth checking on.