I am getting ready to take my MMM off for the year and wanted to see what everyone does with theirs as far as maintenance. There are some areas on the underside where the paint has been wore off. Should I repaint the bottom of the desk to prevent rust?
MMM winter maintenance
- Thread starter jgregory2010
- Start date
I clean and grease it. Sharpen the blades and i always take the belt tension spring off over the winter. Any bare spots under the deck get some oil brushed on. I dont bother painting
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
I usually wash mine and brush on a little rust converter or primer on the bare or rusty areas for protection.
NoJacketRequired
Active member
Equipment
B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
I've done a number of things to keep our old mowing deck in operation (not a Kubota part, but the idea is the same).
1) grease the unit thoroughly and clean up weapage
2) thoroughly clean the underside of the mowing deck - I've found it's far easier to use one of those fancy "twisted wire" wheels on an angle grinder - only takes a few minutes rather than many more minutes using manual methods
3) use a can of cheap rattle can spray paint and paint the underside of the deck with the blades removed
4) sharpen blades carefully and re-install
5) remove tension from the belts
After 25 years with the same lawn tractor this process seems to have worked well. The only exceptions have been years when I was too late putting it away, when it was too cold for paint to have dried. In those years I just sprayed on Krown or Rust Check undercoating - it's liquid enough that it would penetrate through any residual grass that's pasted against the steel.
1) grease the unit thoroughly and clean up weapage
2) thoroughly clean the underside of the mowing deck - I've found it's far easier to use one of those fancy "twisted wire" wheels on an angle grinder - only takes a few minutes rather than many more minutes using manual methods
3) use a can of cheap rattle can spray paint and paint the underside of the deck with the blades removed
4) sharpen blades carefully and re-install
5) remove tension from the belts
After 25 years with the same lawn tractor this process seems to have worked well. The only exceptions have been years when I was too late putting it away, when it was too cold for paint to have dried. In those years I just sprayed on Krown or Rust Check undercoating - it's liquid enough that it would penetrate through any residual grass that's pasted against the steel.
On the bare or rusty spots underneath:
After washing it well, grind the bare spots a bit, then coat with OSPHO, which is phosphoric acid.
It is what we use on ships, it stops rust and makes a base for paint.
Let it dry a bit, Then I spray it with a rattle can of paint.
Done this for years and it has worked fine.
M
After washing it well, grind the bare spots a bit, then coat with OSPHO, which is phosphoric acid.
It is what we use on ships, it stops rust and makes a base for paint.
Let it dry a bit, Then I spray it with a rattle can of paint.
Done this for years and it has worked fine.
M
All this maintenance makes my program look inferior. I clean the caked grass residue off. That's it. The MMM, now converted to front mount, is a 1992 model, no rust issues that have noticeable wear. Belts/springs stay in place.
Same w/ rear 3 point, purchased that in 1997. They are stored inside.
New or sharpened blades in spring, ck gearbox fluid, grease spindles, not the driveshaft and mow, mow , mow, tire air as needed.
Today's MMM seem rather light. The 6 ft Ford 917 weighs just under 700 lbs.
Same w/ rear 3 point, purchased that in 1997. They are stored inside.
New or sharpened blades in spring, ck gearbox fluid, grease spindles, not the driveshaft and mow, mow , mow, tire air as needed.
Today's MMM seem rather light. The 6 ft Ford 917 weighs just under 700 lbs.
Yep pressure the underside, then remove the blades and sharpen them spray paint the underside any color it will get worn off shortly after you start mowing again,, Install the blades and torque them properly,, grease all the fittings check the oil in the transfer case, and put it off to one side out of the way,, yup thats how you do it,,
And if I was wasnt so old fat and lazy thats what I would do too
And if I was wasnt so old fat and lazy thats what I would do too
I sharpen and rotate the blades, grease the zerks and scrape any accumulated debris. I don't waste time painting, etc. the finish on the underside.
Every two or three years I change the oil in the gearboxes.
Been doing this for 25 seasons now with the 60" MMM for my 93 B1750HSDT and it still looks better than any used one that I have seen.
SDT