R1 or R4 tires?

[AJared]

I will be doing 70% bush hogging pastures, 20% loader work, and 10% running a disc. I do some road driving moving between farms. Any opinions? Thanks!

 

[Creature Meadow]

The R1's for what you plan on using the tractor for may serve you best.

For me I really like the R4's just a good all around tire. I spend a lot of time in the garden, maintaining my roads about a mile total, brush hogging, and general use.

Little time in muddy conditions and really no snow here in NC to amount to much.

They don't tear up my grass when using the L4600 for a wheel barrow cleaning up around the farm.

I just really like my R4's seem to be a great all around tire.

 

[mickeyd]

I will be doing 70% bush hogging pastures, 20% loader work, and 10% running a disc. I do some road driving moving between farms. Any opinions? Thanks!

I use filled R1 tires because of the traction. They are great for the items you mentioned. Be sure to take your tractor out of 4WD for on road driving.

 

[AJared]

Great insight! Thanks!

 

[D2Cat]

I'd say if you're is loose dirt a large percentage of time use R1, other wise I prefer R4.

 

[NoBiffBetter]

Carlisle WT300 are gonna be your best bet IF they have them in the size your looking for. I’m not sure what tractor you have but I have these on my sub compact and they kick butt. They have the grip of a lug tire yet are gental on your lawn like a turf tire.. they are a perfect in-between tire.. you can mow and turn right with them with out causing turf damage yet when your out in the mud or snow you have amazing forward traction.

Check them out, best part is they are about half the price of any typical R1 or R4 tire and they sell them in 4ply.

 

[85Hokie]

I'd say if you're is loose dirt a large percentage of time use R1, other wise I prefer R4.

I agree with the above statement. I prefer R4.....unless I was farming.

 

[Bulldog]

If you even think about mud you'll want R1's.

The R4's are great on hard ground but if it's wet they suck.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I will be doing 70% bush hogging pastures, 20% loader work, and 10% running a disc. I do some road driving moving between farms. Any opinions? Thanks!

R1's but radials, not bias. I run R1's and my first set were bias on my M9. The second set are radial. Cost more but wear (roading) much better and I road a lot between fields Myself.

End of the year the M105 will get reshod too, if I can afford it. 4 R1's in my size are about 4 grand for radials.,

 

[dalola]

Doesn't sound like being gentle on turf is anywhere on your radar, so R1 is your best choice.

 

[GBJeffOH]

I like R4. They don't tear up the yard. With 4 wheel drive they go pretty good in the mud.

 

[edritchey]

I like R1 tires for field work and R4 tires for loader work.

 

[91redfrod]

which one will likely last 30 years, R1 or R4?

 

[Bulldog]

which one will likely last 30 years, R1 or R4?

My L3000 has the factory rear Firestones and are better than half tread. 18 years old. The front Bridgestone and had to be replaced last year not from being worn out but because the side walls were junk and blew out.

My M9000 still has the factory Titans and they still look new at 16 years old.

Both are R1's.

Both tractors spend a lot of time on the road during hay season and the L3000 gets at least a mile (sometimes more) a day from Oct/Nov - Mar/Apr feeding hay. The start and stop time depends on the weather and pasture conditions.

 

[SidecarFlip]

which one will likely last 30 years, R1 or R4?

Depends on your use frequency and how much pavement driving you do and remember the fronts will wear out about twice as fast as the rears.

No tire will last 30 years and if they do they are shot because of ozone cracking and internal rot.

I run R1's not only for the traction issues but for crop clearance. I still have hay windrow issues, straddling windrows for round baling and R4's would be substantially worse. I have to run a truck mudflap under both tractors in front of the drawbar to 'smooth' the windrows down to prevent bunching of the windrow prior to it entering the baler.

 

[Bulldog]

I have to run a truck mudflap under both tractors in front of the drawbar to 'smooth' the windrows down to prevent bunching of the windrow prior to it entering the baler.

I wondered if I was the only one that did this. I've tried to get some of my buddies to try it but they just keep doing without and then bitch when a big wad plugs their baler.

 

[boz1989]

I wondered if I was the only one that did this. I've tried to get some of my buddies to try it but they just keep doing without and then bitch when a big wad plugs their baler.

This year, I was trying to bale behind a 30' rotary combine that shaved some down wheat. I ran a dual wheel tractor on the windrow[emoji4]

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk

 

[91redfrod]

All good info/advice I went industrial, R4's loaded with bio, thanks.

 

[edritchey]

Great choice

All good info/advice I went industrial, R4's loaded with bio, thanks.

 

[Dae06]

The R1's for what you plan on using the tractor for may serve you best.

For me I really like the R4's just a good all around tire. I spend a lot of time in the garden, maintaining my roads about a mile total, brush hogging, and general use.

Little time in muddy conditions and really no snow here in NC to amount to much.

They don't tear up my grass when using the L4600 for a wheel barrow cleaning up around the farm.

I just really like my R4's seem to be a great all around tire.

You spoke too soon about saying "Really no snow in NC" , My nieces flight out of NC was delayed 3 days due to 18" of snow. She should be flying out today.