Trailer Tie downs

[goldenpsp]

Hey all,

So I've towed machinery before, but it was always rental gear and already tied down to the trailer when I picked it up. Now that I have a BX23s and need to tow it I realized I was confused when looking for tie downs. Between Load capacity, breaking strength, and safe working load numbers I was confused. I don't want to simply over spend needlessly. At the same time however I don't want to buy straps that are not sufficient.

I'm also not opposed to chains, but that gets equally difficult understanding capacities. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[eipo]

You're looking for something that has a WLL of 50% of the weight of your tractor. If you're using straps, and lets say your tractor weighs 1000 pounds, you want each strap to have a minimum rating of 500 pounds.

Now... that being said.... Straps that small don't have the dynamic capabilities as a 2" strap, so I use 2" straps with a WLL at just a hair over 3000 pounds for my 2650. They are small, easy to use and its what I would use in your shoes as well. I use 4 because I prefer to tie off to each corner rather than use 2 and run it through/over something on the tractor.

You can certainly use chains and binders, a 5/16 grade 70 transport chain has a WLL of 4700 pounds. But they are heavier and IMO unnecessary for your size tractor.

The only number you need to concern yourself with is WLL. Non overhead lifting apparatus usually has a 3:1 margin built in, some use a 5:1. Overhead is 10:1. So a 2" ratchet strap with a WLL of 3,300 pounds has a break strength of 9,900 pounds based on a 3:1. Chains use the same methodology.

 

[rjcorazza]

I used 3” straps on 4 corners for my previous L3410, which was a little heavier than a BX machine. I believe they had a working load of 5000 lbs or so. I connected to the tractor with short axle straps, which gives me a lot of options.
I have yet to tow my L4060, but when I get a larger trailer I will continue to use the 3” straps. I agree that 2” straps would be a good fit for a BX tractor.


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[goldenpsp]

Excellent, thanks everyone. I definitely plan on 4, I don't like wrapping one from one side to the other, there is always a chance of slippage.

I figured straps would be fine but I also have seen on the internet, the "always chainers" who decry the unexpected failure of straps.

I don't expect to trailer my BX very often, or for long distances anyway.

 

[skeets]

What are you using as tie down points on the trailer and on the tractor?

 

[boz1989]

Don't forget the loader/ 3 point stuff needs to be strapped also, and backhoe bucket.

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[Tarmy]

Check with your DMV or state...

Some states require rated chains and associated hardware to be used on public roads...

Straps can stretch and snap under extreme loads in wrecks...you are not only supposed to tie it down to tow...but to remain safe during unplanned events like emergency braking etc...

Remember...you may be not only saving your life...but another life if that load shifts or becomes loose on a highway...

 

[eipo]

Straps fare better under dynamic loading than chains when all else is equal. The key is to make sure that the WLL is derived from a REASONABLE safety factor.

 

[goldenpsp]

What are you using as tie down points on the trailer and on the tractor?

The trailer has D ring tie down points on all 4 corners. Same place others attach to the frame of the BX that I've seen on other trailer posts

 

[bikerdib]

I use four 3/8" grade 70 chains that I have cut to length specifically for the purpose, one on each corner of the tractor and I use four ratcheting binders. For any 3 point implements or the backhoe bucket, I throw a 1/4" chain over it with a quick binder.

Overkill? Maybe, but it's kind of like when I ride one of my motorcycles; I wear a helmet for the unexpected.

I shake my head every time I see someone with minimal or even no securing of a load. I wonder who or what they are on the way to destroying.

 

[flyidaho]

The main, and about only, drawback with straps is weakening over time from abrasion, and exposure to UV. In my crane biz, I never leave my slings out in the sun, unless working. Chains wear too, but at least are UV resistant. But for a sudden shock, I'll take a sling over a chain, they have no give. I use chain on my mini and the tractor, as said earlier, for sure grade 70 min. A sharp highway trooper will know the difference between 70 and lesser grades, and rightfully ticket you! I also use 2 tiedowns, where I could use one, looped. It halves the excitement if one fails for some reason.....

 

[Creature Meadow]

I use grade 70 chain with binders, one chain for front with binder and one of each for the rear. I use a 3" strap for any implement I have on. I only use the 3" because a 4 pack at TS was like $30 bucks some time back.

I just like the chain and binder setup, once I tighten down Katie the L4600 is tight to the trailer.

If I did not have the chains and binders I would use the 3" straps one on each corner of tractor and one for the implement.

 

[KeithG]

I use the same chains for tractor work and securing the tractor to the trailer. Dragging 24" diameter tree sections on the ground would wear the straps too much that I would not trust them to secure the tractor to the trailer.

Also, I forgot my chains once when I picked up a pallet of block for a retaining wall and was surprised to find that the road travel caused the block to almost wear through one of the straps. I was glad I had 4 securing the load! So from then on I always used chains as I figured they would be more durable and could be used for more tasks... My 2 cents... Oh, I used 5/8" chains...

 

[Freeheeler]

Don't forget the loader/ 3 point stuff needs to be strapped also, and backhoe bucket.

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I always push the bucket into the front of the trailer so nothing can move forward and strap the axles to the four courners. I've never thought about strapping down the backhoe. My BH77 has a beefy mechanical latch to prevent the boom from dropping. How do you go about securing your backhoe and why? I don't want to be 'that guy' on the road.

 

[troverman]

This is a good discussion for sure.

A BX machine is reasonably lightweight and straps can be used. A quality 2" strap is the minimum I would ever use for a machine like this. I have a B series which is a little heavier than a BX, plus an MX which is considerably heavier. I run commercial insurance coverage on my truck and trailer and equipment. My insurance company stated chains and binders must be used for either of my tractors. I estimate my B2920 with loader and loaded rear tires to total somewhere around 3000lbs. My MX4800 with loader and loaded rears would be somewhere around 7k lbs. I use 5/16" grade 70 chain with matching ratchet binders for the MX. For the B series I have used chains but I have also used heavy duty strap with a high WLL rating.

Many laws dictate 4-corner chaining or strapping, but I often use just two chains. These tractors do not really have great places to chain from, certainly not like an excavator. I've used a single chain through the torque tube of the loader to opposing d-rings on my trailer forward of the loader, plus a single chain atop the lift arms, with an implement attached, to d-rings behind the attachment. Using a binder to keep tight I feel the tractor is very well secured. Sometimes in the front I use a chain through the front frame cross brace which the brush guard attaches to.

As a general rule of thumb, engage 4x4 and drive the tractor on to the trailer, then firmly set the parking brake, lower all implements, keep the bucket squarely flat on the trailer deck, and then securely chain. Stop after a few miles to check and make sure your chains (or straps) are tight.

 

[Dennis.D]

This is how I tie it down. 4 straps one on each wheel. Low range 4X4 and lock the brake.

 

[greeno]

Your hoe should be riding on the deck.


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[SteveSRT]

for a machine that small I personally would just get some 5/16 grade 70 or higher chain and some ratchet binders or snap binders. Over time you'll save over straps because you won't probably ever need to replaced the chains and binders unless you lose them. Look at the rating on the ratchet or snap binders when you buy them and make sure the hooks are also the right size. Some will be to big for that small of chain. They will probably be 5400lb rated. I think 5/16 grade 70 chain is rated for 4700 pounds I'd have to double check. We mostly buy 3/8 and 1/2 grade 100 these days for our heavy haul trucks. WAY overkill for what you're doing. As others have said the bucket and backhoe boom need to be tied down too to make the cops happy. That is, if you run across one that knows what he's doing.

 

[captmikem]

Two chains and one binder.

Both my BX and my MX I use the same chains and the same procedure.
I drive it on the trailer, about a foot forward of where I want her, hook a chain at the front right corner of the trailer, pass it thru the front grill guard, then back to the left front corner and hook it on itself. Then back the tractor up till it snuggs down, set the park brake and lower the FEL.

For the back I Hook a chain to the right trailer corner, pass it around and thru whatever implement is on the back, then to the left rear corner of the trailer, and hook a chain binder on that leg.

I haul often and have had no problems with this procedure on either tractor.
Simple and easy.

M

 

[PA452]

I use 5/16 Grade 70 chains and binders with my BX23. I just feel it's more positively secure than straps, and I find them pretty quick and easy to set up. In fact, I personally feel like I probably put those chains on faster than I could put on straps.

I use just two 20' chains, one in the front and one in the back. But, I have a 4-point tie-down with them by adding removable hooks midway on the chains. This way I get a 4-point tie-down without having to cut the chains into shorter lengths, so I can use them for other things if I want. It's also nice to be able to quickly change the position of a hook, but I have yet to need to do so.