Push Button Start on L3450?

[Dave_eng]

Here is my latest findings....sorry cant post pics easy right now

First, the fuel selinoid works fine with 12v applied to it. It does not work however if I simply re-connect the factory connection and shut key off. I didn***8217;t think to check and see if wires are receiving voltage when tractor is running. I suspect not but don***8217;t know.

With the column shifter in neutral, the tractor will start with the button, no operator in seat and clutch not depressed. I know this is dangerous, just reporting this as the situation.

Wiring. I removed all the cowling below the steering wheel to chase wires. First off, the blue wire is for lights that aren***8217;t hooked up to the rocker switch.

Connect to the top position of the push button is a red wire that goes to the lug at bottom side of the starter. There is a heavy cable attached to this lug that goes to the battery. There is a second yellow wire that is connected directly to the starter. This appears to be spliced into a black and white wire; not sure where this BW wire originated but it***8217;s not part of the work around best I can tell. You can see this connection in the photo of the starter, bottom left corner of starter

Any thoughts on how to reactivate the factory ignition?

WHG

I am prepared to work with you to get some of the basics working but perhaps you are satisfied with what you have been able to accomplish.

If you want my help, my request to you is to buy yourself a 12 volt test light like this one. Around $ 10.

Do you understand wiring diagrams and more particular the table showing the various connections made by the key switch and others.

It helps others who are trying to help you to fully understand the level of your knowledge. With this knowledge of your skills we don't miss basic but important points or alternatively bore you with too much trivia.

Dave

 

[WHG]

Hi Dave-

Thanks for the offer to help. I have a Klein multi-meter, fairly well versed in it. I have done a fair bit of residential electrical work. I have a basic understanding of the wiring diagrams, yes. I am not 100% sure I understand all the key positions and connections in the diagrams, but I am sure we can work through it. I really would like to get the thing working correctly.

Yesterday I removed the fuseable link and jumped across it to see if the key would work, but it did not. Also, not surprising, but the tractor will start without any key whatsoever. I tried this after it had been running for a while and wasn't too concerned with GP pre-heat.

Help is appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi Dave-

Thanks for the offer to help. I have a Klein multi-meter, fairly well versed in it. I have done a fair bit of residential electrical work. I have a basic understanding of the wiring diagrams, yes. I am not 100% sure I understand all the key positions and connections in the diagrams, but I am sure we can work through it. I really would like to get the thing working correctly.

Yesterday I removed the fuseable link and jumped across it to see if the key would work, but it did not. Also, not surprising, but the tractor will start without any key whatsoever. I tried this after it had been running for a while and wasn't too concerned with GP pre-heat.

Help is appreciated.
Thanks

WGH
Having your electrical background and a high quality multimeter will stand you in good stead. I still think the 12 volt test light will prove to be a faster and easier troubleshoot tool.

The multimeter is auto ranging and will just as easily mislead you by showing millivolts instead of volts.

I know you have the WSM and wiring diagram. Sometimes the hardest thing when many features do not work as designed, is to choose a starting point.

Since the Key switch is a critical component on any tractor I suggest you start by doing the check out procedure as shown on this page of the WSM.

Since this test is done with all wiring removed from the switch, you are not going to get misleading readings.

We have seen on this forum that owners have replaced Kubota key switches with one from another brand. This can lead to confusion so best to establish you have a key switch which operates according to the original design

Dave

 

[WHG]

This is great Dave...not sure why I didn't see that in the manual, and you are correct, finding a place to start is not that easy. I can see about getting a tester like you suggested if that will make things easier.

Thanks

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

FYI: That model is a direct injection model, you only need preheat the glow plugs when it's in the freezing temps for it to start, the rest of the time you don't need them.