Not your standard "B2650/spacers/MMM" topic...

[85Hokie]

After reading through the thread I thought: Is it possible that the driveshaft is binding When lifting the MMM up? Is the PTO shaft locked in place? Is there free play in the shaft went all the way up?
If either of these conditions exist I believe it could force the deck backwards when raised.


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That is a good point, but I think if that was true, the binding would want to push the MMM slightly forward. The pto is more or less under the OP, and the PTO for the MMM is more or less at your feet, so if it was to raise, I would think in the swing of the arc, it would want to push the mower slightly forward.

On the BX there is a "bolt and nut" off the rear wheel that allows the height of the MMM once locked into place, is there such an animal on the "B"?

Also - have both of you measured from the same point on the MMM to the ground? Could sheep's be going up a smidge further??

 

[sheepfarmer]

I stopped by Aldermans, the dealership that sold and services this tractor (nice folks there) and talked to the person that put the deck on after the subframe issues were solved, and I believe the linkage adjustment issues were optimized, he had worked on it quite a bit to get it to work smoothly. It does come up quite high in the hopes of reaching the pin site needed to use the 3pt hitch, but not quite, before it hits the tire. He mentioned that these linkages between deck and 3pt arm are easily bent, he had repaired many after suboptimal installation, and he recommended that I use a stop on the lift lever in the cab rather than the rear stoppers on the deck, which limit upward travel of the deck by banging into the frame. Eipo had not been using them, and I was only going to install them because they are used in calibrating correct length of rear turnbuckles which the tech had already done. So other than evening out my wheels after we fooled with them, I think what I have is as good as it gets. It will mow fine, I just can't use the 3pt for my landscape rake or pin it up out of the way for loader work.


My choices if I don't like this arrangement now are 1. Remove the spacers, and they were doubtful that I really needed them. Not sure I agree, but they aren't very big. 2. Trade this deck in on a 72" deck. Has other problems associated with that. Gonna mow with this one for the rest of the season first.

Conclusions so far: if you are buying Kubota standard turf tires and rims, you should not add spacers if you want to use the 60" deck with all its features. It worked ok for eipo using the rims from his R4 tires to mount the turfs, serendipitously, but the front wheel/rear wheel rolling circumference ratio should be looked at before trying that on account of the 4 wd, and maybe eipo could comment on that.

Thanks everyone, as always I have learned a lot! Any other thoughts on this would be appreciated.

 

[hope to float]

Just a thought, could Sheepfarmer and Eipo swop wheels?

 

[sheepfarmer]

Just a thought, could Sheepfarmer and Eipo swop wheels?

Actually a couple days ago eipo made that offer, before we knew what was different about the wheels. He has gone above and beyond the call of duty to help me get things set up. It is probably premature to do that though, I need to find out how this mower/tractor works in my yard first. It is a little big for some of the corners etc.

 

[sheepfarmer]

Forgot one of the other solutions, the most obvious, take the deck off if I want to use the loader or the 3pt for something. I reviewed Rkidd's post on how easy it is, and I'm almost convinced. . If I could just be 10 years younger....

 

[eipo]

Another option would be to fabricate some short extensions to pin the deck up. Wouldn't be anything more than 2 pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in it.

I hadn't considered the rolling diameter until yesterday. Not sure Ill worry about it right now, I don't use 4wd all that often and I'm religious about taking it out of 4wd when I'm done using it.

All in all, I don't think you need spacers for stability on your property. But they are needed to clear chains. Thats the only reason I have them and Ive mowed the bank along M100, which is better than a 30 degree slope, without them.

Let me know which direction you want to go. Swap wheels, remove spacers and put them back on for winter...

 

[eipo]

Actually a couple days ago eipo made that offer, before we knew what was different about the wheels. He has gone above and beyond the call of duty to help me get things set up. It is probably premature to do that though, I need to find out how this mower/tractor works in my yard first. It is a little big for some of the corners etc.

Thats when you start adjusting bed edges!

 

[Russell King]

Can the interference be eliminated by cutting the wheels off the deck and moving them out some?


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[SDT]

I stopped by Aldermans, the dealership that sold and services this tractor (nice folks there) and talked to the person that put the deck on after the subframe issues were solved, and I believe the linkage adjustment issues were optimized, he had worked on it quite a bit to get it to work smoothly. It does come up quite high in the hopes of reaching the pin site needed to use the 3pt hitch, but not quite, before it hits the tire. He mentioned that these linkages between deck and 3pt arm are easily bent, he had repaired many after suboptimal installation, and he recommended that I use a stop on the lift lever in the cab rather than the rear stoppers on the deck, which limit upward travel of the deck by banging into the frame. Eipo had not been using them, and I was only going to install them because they are used in calibrating correct length of rear turnbuckles which the tech had already done. So other than evening out my wheels after we fooled with them, I think what I have is as good as it gets. It will mow fine, I just can't use the 3pt for my landscape rake or pin it up out of the way for loader work.


My choices if I don't like this arrangement now are 1. Remove the spacers, and they were doubtful that I really needed them. Not sure I agree, but they aren't very big. 2. Trade this deck in on a 72" deck. Has other problems associated with that. Gonna mow with this one for the rest of the season first.

Conclusions so far: if you are buying Kubota standard turf tires and rims, you should not add spacers if you want to use the 60" deck with all its features. It worked ok for eipo using the rims from his R4 tires to mount the turfs, serendipitously, but the front wheel/rear wheel rolling circumference ratio should be looked at before trying that on account of the 4 wd, and maybe eipo could comment on that.

Thanks everyone, as always I have learned a lot! Any other thoughts on this would be appreciated.

I believe that you will find that the 72" deck is also incompatible with wheel spacers, especially with turf tires.

Just investigated this when buying my B3350.

SDT

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

I believe that you will find that the 72" deck is also incompatible with wheel spacers, especially with turf tires.

Just investigated this when buying my B3350.

SDT

Just delete the spacers and be done with this.

 

[SDT]

Just delete the spacers and be done with this.

Agreed, Michael.

The issue is tire chains in the winter. Spacer are necessary for tire chain clearance as there is only about 1"-1 1/2" fender clearance.

I investigated this when buying my B3350 (no MMM as yet, but probably in the future).

I will use the B3350 to plow snow with QA/FEL attached hydraulic angle blade. Some areas are steep so will likely need chains.

Have not bought spacers or chains yet as decided to try plowing without chains first (have back up plows). If chains needed, will buy chains first and try to install without spacers. Will subsequently buy spacers if needed.

Really trying to avoid installing/removing spacers seasonally as may be necessary with MMM.

I have standard size R-4 tires without liquid ballast but do have ballast box. I never use liquid ballast as I change/repair my own tires.

I wanted optional, oversize R-4 tires but ruled these out as completely incompatible with tire chains (spacers or not) and/or MMMs.

SDT

 

[John Lash]

Yes, chain clearance is imperative for winter plowing. I have a steep drive with R4 tires. I can plow without chains most of the time. I might even be able to get through all winter. But, there will be that day or two a year that you can't do it without chains. At best you're ineffective, at worst you can't make it back up the hill, or you slide into something.

 

[sheepfarmer]

The moral to the story is that it is tough to have a single tractor outfitted to do everything conveniently. There is a reason why my real farmer neighbors have 5 or 6 tractors, most accumulated over a couple of generations, outfitted for specific purposes. I bought the B2650 to replace the old Ingersoll for snowblowing in the winter. Hence the spacers and cab. I had to chain up the Ingersoll, so I figured this tractor too. Around here the amount of snow in any given winter varies wildly, and loaded turfs and front chains have been adequate for the two winters I've had it, but the two winters before that were much worse. So its primary purpose was a winter tractor. The dealer told me there would be problems with the spacers if I wanted to mow with it too. So it turns out that I can mow, but I just can't conveniently also use the loader and 3 pt hitch. Talk about greedy! But the B is a remarkably handy little tractor, and I found a bunch of uses for it last summer. All are still possible, but with the arthritis in my hands I have trouble swapping implements easily, so I tend to avoid it. The pins and especially the collar on the flail pto are the bane of my existence. Well not quite, but you get my drift.

 

[Clover13]

Really good pages of info and testing.

So the summary is don't get spacers for the B2650 if you plan on running a MMM whether 60 or 72. And if you want to put chains on (turf tires), then you'll need spacers.

This makes me think maybe spending $3000+ on a MMM might not be the best idea, I can get a dedicated mower for less to manage my 3/4 of an acre. If I do that, then it becomes whether to get R3 or R4 tires for the rest of my work, considering I'll probably also do lawn tasks with the B2650 FEL.

Man so many expensive decisions...

 

[eipo]

Actually......

Here's what was discovered. The wheels for the turf tires have a larger offset than the wheels for the r4 tires.

That's why I didn't have issues with the deck and spacers running the turf tires, because I bought my tractor with r4 tires and swapped over to turfs.

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[Clover13]

Actually......

Here's what was discovered. The wheels for the turf tires have a larger offset than the wheels for the r4 tires.

That's why I didn't have issues with the deck and spacers running the turf tires, because I bought my tractor with r4 tires and swapped over to turfs.

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Right, so with "stock" r3 ties and wheels, you can't go spacers otherwise you'll rub with the 60 or 72 MMM. And conversely, if you don't use spacers, you can't use chains if you need them?

 

[eipo]

Correct.

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[sheepfarmer]

I think the problem with a 72 inch deck and spacers is different. Someone that has a 72 will have to verify, but I think I read that it has something to do with getting the deck on and off.

But as an aside to what eipo said about the rims, the difference in the offset and the way the turf tires fit on those r4 rims made them a smaller total diameter..

 

[Clover13]

And assuming there's no "stock" fix to allow for both with R3 turf tires? I've seen some go with 3350 tires on the 2650 but I'd imagine that's just even more of a problem (wider/bigger).

 

[Clover13]

I think the problem with a 72 inch deck and spacers is different. Someone that has a 72 will have to verify, but I think I read that it has something to do with getting the deck on and off.

But as an aside to what eipo said about the rims, the difference in the offset and the way the turf tires fit on those r4 rims made them a smaller total diameter..

Then I wonder if that is the drive over deck or the conventional deck. Or does the 72 not come in a drive over?