No dang down pressure.

[BigT]

Hey folks

I have a 7100d. I just picked it up. I'm starting to learn the machine. I have a service manual comming shortly. I plan on going threw it and changind fluids,filters and hoses. I have played with it. Some of my friends who are farmers are impressed with this "little guy"

Any way
when I go to drop the rear hitch it dropps very slow. It goes a little faster when when I put pressure on it. (I have a blade that angles on the front that works fine) Do I have a Problem? Does this machine have down force?
I have read elswhere that it doesnt. I was also told that by adjusting a screw under the seat I could adjust the pressure. Any input would be great.

 

[cmorningstar01]

Hi Big T,
Not sure about your B7100d but on my B5100 and B7500 there is upward lift on the 3 point and downward movement is by gravity only, My B7500 does have a knob under the seat that allows you to control the speed at which the 3 point drops and it can be set so that it will hold it up indefinately even when you place the lever in the down/drop position. This is convenient because I have a bracket on the back with a platform for hauling items around and if I leave anything on that platform overnight the pressure slowly bleeds off and the 3 point slowly drops so if I want the platform to stay up and level I just turn the knob and it locks the 3 point in the up position.

Val

 

[GWD]

Very few tractors have down pressure on the 3 point hitch. When all the way down the implement floats and follows the contour of the the land (in the case of a blade).

The knob for adjusting the rate of drop on the 3 PH should be under the seat and between your legs when seated. It is very difficult to turn while the hitch has weight on it so my recommendation is to lower the implement and make the adjustment (turning counterclockwise will increase the rate of drop). Then test to see if it is what you want.

 

[B7100]

Very few tractors have down pressure on the 3 point hitch. When all the way down the implement floats and follows the contour of the the land (in the case of a blade).

The knob for adjusting the rate of drop on the 3 PH should be under the seat and between your legs when seated. It is very difficult to turn while the hitch has weight on it so my recommendation is to lower the implement and make the adjustment (turning counterclockwise will increase the rate of drop). Then test to see if it is what you want.

On both my B7100's the rate of drop adjuster is located on top of the hyd control valve under the seat hinge,its a bolt with a lock nut painted yellowish orange.
Page 27 of the owners manual describes the proceedure
Dave

 

[stuart]

Power down is pretty much required on a loader, to give you a really good scrape along the ground. Also helps to get unstuck when you can lift the front wheels up a bit and rick the bucket.
For rear attached implements, you want them to float, and follow the contour of the ground. Power down on the rear implements would cause the rear wheels (eventually) to rise up off the ground - can't get much traction that way. As I understand it, power down is not included because it should not ever be needed. You can control how low you want the implement to drop, necessary in plowing and rototilling, or preventing the back blade from digging too deep.
If you need your back blade to dig in more, add more weight and/or change the length of the top link to make the angle more aggressive.

 

[BigT]

I've noticed that painted nut. I thought so but didnt want to go messing with somthing I didnt know about. Thanks fellas. Should be able to get to it later this week and play some more.

Many thanks
T

 

[BigT]

Yup
That was it. Plowing much faster now.
Thanks fellas.

 

[ToyFarm]

Power down is pretty much required on a loader, to give you a really good scrape along the ground. Also helps to get unstuck when you can lift the front wheels up a bit and rick the bucket.
For rear attached implements, you want them to float, and follow the contour of the ground. Power down on the rear implements would cause the rear wheels (eventually) to rise up off the ground - can't get much traction that way. As I understand it, power down is not included because it should not ever be needed. You can control how low you want the implement to drop, necessary in plowing and rototilling, or preventing the back blade from digging too deep.
If you need your back blade to dig in more, add more weight and/or change the length of the top link to make the angle more aggressive.

I agree with most folk on here in the logistics of normally not needing or wanting down pressure or a down force option with a 3pt hitch. I am not one to pass judgement on those who wish it did have the option because I am one. My desire for wanting 3pt down pressure is for stationary work not traction based vs down pressure. I will look into my Kubota system more in depth in time to see if I can at least install a manual valve set up to at least dead end the 3pt so bypass would be minimal. The reason for this is because I want to build rear stabilizers or out riggers because for the loader I want to build a loader mount scaffold/work platform for doing siding/roof/gutter work. If anyone thinks its a horrible idea lol, my father built one about 20' wide for the little john deere 3130. I admit that it was plenty of loader for that tractor but he ballasted it well and walking out to the outside edge was just fine once you got used to working on front tires having a side wall and being 14' in the air at max height when needed. The loader handled the lateral torque well. I want to build an 8' approx. for my little Kubota tractor. I think it will handle it well. But due to the light weight of the machine and not the integrity of its construction I want to make a weighted rear stabilizer system. I only have a bungalow so I don't have to be ridiculously high to perform my household tasks. It will work just fine. Everyone has an opinion and is entitled to it. There will always be haters and appreciators but I bought my little unit to be a poor mans skid steer and it is everything I could ask of it and more. I don't abuse it, I use it within its capability and plan to for many years to come. It is one of the handiest tools I have in my collection. If I need an attachment then I will fabricate one up

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My desire for wanting 3pt down pressure is for stationary work not traction based vs down pressure. I will look into my Kubota system more in depth in time to see if I can at least install a manual valve set up to at least dead end the 3pt so bypass would be minimal.

On most Kubota's especially the small models, you can not make the 3 point have down force in it's stock form, the three point connection to the piston is not attached, thus no down force, no matter if you were to change the valving.
You could add external hydraulics but that's costly and complicated.
To do what you want to do, you are better off adding a subframe and outriggers just like a back hoe to make it safer and more efficient.

 

[ToyFarm]

Good to know, thanks for the advice on the floating piston assembly. That I was certainly not aware of, I was thinking it was fixed but was designed to float via hydraulically. Very appreciative of the tip. Thank you I do have dual rear remotes I will have to look at utilizing them. Was using the primary set for operating the hydraulic top link on the quick hitch but will most likely have to scrap the quick hitch stabilizer theory.

 

[prof.fate]

very few tractors have 'power down' on their 3 point. My neighbor has an old farmall that does have it - handy for changing tires!!

 

[hodge]

very few tractors have 'power down' on their 3 point. My neighbor has an old farmall that does have it - handy for changing tires!!

Belarus has it. That's the only other brand that I've seen with downforce.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

JD offers it as an option on the newer 40XXR series tractors.

 

[Butch]

My first Kubota was B7100. I bought it from a commercial landscaping contractor. It saw a hard life before I got it. the radiator screen was gone and the the the radiator was clogged... I found out when it over heated every time I put it under any load. Took about 4 hours to clean each vent vein.... got a new screen and worked like a charm since. The 7100 does not have power down on three point hitch. When plowing snow with it using a 5' three point manual adjusting blade... I weighted it down with my 275 lb. neighbor. Lowering speed of the three point hitch was between the legs. One of the meatiest little machines around. Handled a 72" MMM like a dream. It also handled a FL1000 rototiller without any problems and it contoured a 4 acre lot that was a cornfield to the point it was ready for lawn grass seeding. My teenage boys got really tired of picking up rocks out of that field. Wore out a set of 4" wide HD tines to the size of a hair comb on the cornfield with that little machine on account of those damn rocks.

Yep... you have a great little machine. And if you really want down pressure on the three point... find a fat neighbor that likes to play on a tractor.

 

[Mike9]

Look for a three, or four foot piece of rail road rail, or rig up a few hundred pounds of bench weights - there's you "down force".