Costco Tractor trans. fluid?

gurn

New member

Equipment
Kubota L175
Apr 15, 2011
239
14
0
Nashville,Tn
Anyone use this stuff or know anything about it? Its around 35$ for 5 gal. I would think it would be ok for older Kubotas like my L175 but may be not so good for newer hydrostatic tractors. But what do I know? Not much yet but I'm learning.
Gurn
 

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GWD

Member

Equipment
M7040, L48 TLB, BX2200
Jan 8, 2010
792
15
18
Northern California
I have used cheap hydraulic oil from Costco, Sam's Club, and Tractor Supply. Sam's is the worst of the lot.

If you have any complicated hydraulics like clutches, backhoe, remotes, etc. it is best to use a better grade of oil.

My observation is that the cheap oils lose viscosity when heated much faster than quality oil. As a result, I now only use quality oil that run $80 - $90 for a 5 gal. pail. My choice is Kubota UDT or New Holland AMBRA Mastertrans. Others are available and just as good or perhaps better in some folks opinion.

My three tractors take around 40 gallons but the hydraulic oil is not changed often and heat related issues are no longer factors. To me, it is worth the extra cost to have the tractor hydraulics run like they should. There is no dealing with failed lubrication.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
If you have any complicated hydraulics like clutches, backhoe, remotes, etc. it is best to use a better grade of oil.

The hydraulic oil is not changed often. To me, it is worth the extra cost to have the tractor hydraulics run like they should. There is no dealing with failed lubrication.
Agreed fully.

I can't understand a person that's willing to spend thousands on the purchase of their tractor and then cut their on throat trying to save a few dollars on oil. It costs me about $1K to change the hyd oil in both my tractors. It would be about $60K to replace both tractors. A good PM program using quality products isn't cheap. You get what you pay for though.

If cutting corners and going cheap is all that is on your mind maybe a Yanmar should be on your list. It might get you by about as long as the cheap oil will last. While I was looking I would be sure to find the lightest weight, cheapest built implements I could find. This is fun, lets cut some more. We can even cut the cheap oil problem out completely. Sell the Yanmar and buy a mule. It's a multipurpose tool. It can cut/eat your yard down for you. While cutting grass it will drop fertilizer paddies out freely. Plow the garden and be a pet. Potentially hours of fun for the whole family. Sounds like a winner to me.
 

pat331

New member

Equipment
L35, mower, bushhog, cement mixer, grader, boxblade, forks, posthole digger
Mar 31, 2009
298
3
0
Ft. Worth, TX
gurn, in your case where the L175 went through the flood and was submerged, I would drain what is in the tractor now to make sure there is no water in the hydraulic system/transmission case (I assume this is true in a L175). Then refill it with the COSTCO oil and see if you can get it running. After you get it running and all the rest of the problems straightened out, I'd then drain and refill it with new oil. I think an L175 is a straight gear driven tractor, so the COSTCO oil may be ok. You might check the owner's manual. I prefer Kubota Super UDT in mine because that is what came in it. Good Luck and keep us posted.
 

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
Bulldog, you sound like you aren't a huge fan of the Yanmar machines.... :D


I agree with you on proper maintenance being both time consuming and not cheap, and that going lower quality isn't necessarily saving money.


I have no experience with the Costco fluid, and have never had hydraulic fluid be a problem with any machine I've ever had, except when it leaks out.


For that matter, I've only had one machine ever fail because of a lubrication issue. When my brother was 12, he borrowed a 2 stroke dirt bike, filled it straight gas, and took it for a ride. He made it about 13 miles before the engine seized.


For my dollar, doing the maintenance is more important than what you use, as long as it's a compatible product. For example, Wal-Mart Supertech 15W40 oil comes out as being better than some name-brand products (Like Delo 400 LE, Rotella T Triple Protection, Amsoil Synthetic, and Castrol Tection), largely because of the CI-4 API specification rather than being a CJ-4 oil. I attached the test.


I have a lot of equipment that sits for sometimes 2 years before I ever even use it (Post-hole digger, manure spreader, etc.) I don't see any reason to run expensive fully synthetic oil in the gearbox of a post-hole digger that hasn't been under power for an entire hour over the 10 years I have owned it. I change the oil before I'm going to use it: Literally every couple years or so. For that machine, my best maintenance tool is a tarp, to keep it covered. Consequently, when it's time to service the gearbox of that thing, I run Super-tech oil, since it is the cheapest, and isn't an inferior product.


In a machine that does a lot of work with its hydraulic fluid, I see the benefit of running fully synthetic fluid, with top specifications. Loaders, hydrostatic transmissions, and hydraulically powered implements will logically be tougher on the fluid, and more demanding. The expense of the product is counteracted by the improved service intervals. In a gear tractor, that uses the hydraulics to lift the three point at the end of a row, I don't see what benefit the "better" product would be.


The machines of 70 or 80 years ago are doing that same work, and probably some are a fluid change of 40 years ago, maybe more. The guys with the 8Ns don't fret about the hydraulic fluid-they're too busy working on the ignition systems. Lifting an implement, then lowering it for a few minutes, then lifting it again isn't going to be tough on fluid.


The original poster's tractor, as Pat331 pointed out, has been in a flood. It will probably run and work ok without changing the fluid, but he should. The Costco stuff, as long as it meets some reasonable specification (JD303, IH Hy-tran, or whatever) will be great for your machine. Use it for awhile, then change it out again once it's milky.


Buy the cheap stuff, Gurn, and use the money you've saved to do more frequent maintenance and buy parts until you've got the bugs all worked out. I think doing maintenance is more important than having expensive consumables.


The savings of the Costco fluid over the other stuff will let you do a whole flush of the system and fill it up again. That's better than running contaminated synthetic stuff at 90 dollars a bucket! I'd do the same thing with the engine oil. Good luck with your resurrection of this drowned Kubota!
 

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Eric McCarthy

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
Well food for thought Service Dept Vic has said in the past that its totally fine to run store bought brands of hydrulic fluids in tractors. I think Vic even mentioned that he gets his from Wal-mart. I suppose to put your mind at ease if you want read the ingreidents on the buck and compair the brands and see if they have the same luberication values to them. And I defenatly agree with Pat, purchase cheaper fluid and "flush" the system out yo get rid of any water or trash inside the trractors system if it was in a flood.
 

exkx61

New member
Jan 18, 2011
25
0
1
Bigfork,Montana
Total agree with 284 International & Eric McCarthy.Read the specs on container if it meets or surpasses specs it will be just fine. Remember Kubota, JD, Case do not make their own lub they put their name on it and sell for 100% mark up. If you look at Costco container it should have a 1 800 number to call for questions.
Example: I had a JCB Backhoe that took ONLY JCB Special Gear oil 4000/0501 which JCB wanted over $150 per bucket I kept asking what they specs where and JCB would NOT tell me.... BUT Mobil oil people crossed it to 80w/90 LS... less than haft price from Local Mobil.
 

Eric McCarthy

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
Kubota B6100E
Dec 21, 2009
5,223
7
0
43
Richmond Va
Kubota bids their products out and the one with the lowest price wins the contract to make their oils and filters and such. Like Exkx61 Kubota does not refine their or oils and lubes, they find the cheapest company who can produce it for them. Then pay to stick Kubota's name on it and in their package and sell it to you for 100% mark up. Same thing goes for the gasoline that Costco sells outside their store. They dont have their own refinery, they purchase it from Exxon for a predetermined price and sell it to you with their Costco name on it.
 

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
It's possible that the manufacturers could specify a different, that is, optimal, additive package for their own packaged material. I don't know anything about that specifically. Further, "meeting specification" doesn't tell us how far it is exceeds specification. I have students who "pass" my classes; that doesn't necessarily mean they're top of the class.

However, in this context (Replacing fluid in an L175 that was under water) anything that meets specification is going to be fine. He needs to run one or two fills through it to get the water out, or else it doesn't matter what he's using. If he had 10 gallons of unused ATF it would be fine. The major concern is the water contamination, not that a fully synthetic name brand UTF will last an extra 400 hours or whatever in a properly maintained machine.

Once he's got it flushed, then run whatever you want. Any of them will lubricate and last long enough for his homeowner purposes to outlive probably any of us, as long as it doesn't get moisture into it. If it gets rainwater down the shifter or vent, or is submerged again, whatever flavor of lubricant he has will be ruined anyway. I'm certain there are 8Ns running that have only had one hydraulic fluid change in their lives, if any. These vintage Kubotas are as well built as they were, or better. A similar life expectancy is logical to me.

It's not that I think the other posters are wrong. Using better materials won't hurt anything except the pocketbook. But using cheaper ones won't hurt anything, either. Contaminants, additive package consumption and viscosity breakdown are major killers of lubricants. Until his contamination problem (with flood water) is resolved, I don't see any reason to pay more for the other things.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Bulldog, you sound like you aren't a huge fan of the Yanmar machines.... :D

For my dollar, doing the maintenance is more important than what you use, as long as it's a compatible product. For example, Wal-Mart Supertech 15W40 oil comes out as being better than some name-brand products (Like Delo 400 LE, Rotella T Triple Protection, Amsoil Synthetic, and Castrol Tection), largely because of the CI-4 API specification rather than being a CJ-4 oil. I attached the test.
I'm sure a Yanmar would be better than nothing but everybody that I know who either had one or still does has alot of repair cost and time looking for parts. I watched T/V and saw the Mythbusters polish a turd to a slick shine. After all the work it was still just a turd.

I'm not getting into a oil debate but since Amsoil was in this test I looked up the info for myself and this is what I found.
The test has 2 5w40 oils listed, a API rated CJ-4 and a CI-4.
Amsoil does have 2 different 5w40 grade oils but only 1 is diesel.
The test listed the Amsoil Premium syn 5w40 CJ-4 to have a TBN of 7.61. This is about what is listed for the non-diesel 5w40. The actual TBN for the 5w40 diesel oil is 10.4.
According to the test the Amsoil 5w40 CI-4 has a TBN of 10.4.
I don't know what they tested but Amsoil doesn't make a 5w40 CI-4 oil. They have several which have API CI-4 plus specs but none are 5w40.

I'm just passing this info along because I know for sure this test has false statements in it. Maybe it's bad typing but who knows. Only thing I know for a fact is that their information is not correct.
 

284 International

New member

Equipment
B6000 with FEL, assorted Yanmar machines
Mar 25, 2011
151
0
0
California, USA
I didn't mean to turn this into an oil thread either, but I do see that I mis-typed, and want to say so publicly. The two Amsoil oils they tested were rated CI-4 Plus and CJ-4, not CI-4 and CJ-4. The test is at least a couple years old; it's not unlikely things have changed. The CI-4 Plus 5W-40 may no longer be made. I don't know. I trust the data though. Whether it's rated as diesel oil or not, the base numbers are going to be applicable in comparison across the board, since they're done on the same equipment and so forth.

I wasn't trying to make a big deal out of things, I was just trying to say that lubricants that meet specification will work fine, especially for what he's using.

Bulldog, PM sent.
 

kuboman

Member
Dec 6, 2009
725
6
16
Canada
Back when International Harvester came out with the first hydro tranny they were quite explicit on what to do to get long life. They said there are 3 killers of hydros.
Heat
Dirt
Poor oil
They came out with their hy-tran fluid specifically for the hydro. I have more than 20000 hrs combined on various IH hydros and never had a failure of any kind. I used their fluid kept new filters and never overheated. Hydros are very reliable when treated right. Use the best fluid you can buy. I have used CaseIH hy-tran in all my hydros big and small without a failure.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
The test is at least a couple years old; it's not unlikely things have changed.

The CI-4 Plus 5W-40 may no longer be made. I don't know. I trust the data though.

Whether it's rated as diesel oil or not, the base numbers are going to be applicable in comparison across the board,
Like I stated before I'm not starting a oil debate. Just straight facts and nothing else.

I don't see how any test can be acurate if they test diesel and non diesel oil together and compair them like they should be equeal with each other. Lets see, I'm looking at a apple while squeezing a orange. I may have been looking at apple but I got orange juice. You know what I'm pointing at.

It's no secret that I'm a Amsoil dealer. Became one to make it easier on myself to get Amsoil for my on use. I have every book that was sent to me over the years from the price sheets to the monthly magazines. I spent a couple of hrs searching thru data before I stated the info in the test was false. Amsoil does not nor has never made a 5w40 weight oil with API CI-4 plus specs. I don't know about any of the other brands but the test info about Amsoil is false. :cool:

I noticed that Rotella tripple T was down in the bad line up of the test along with one of the Amsoil products. What really caught my eye was that both these were in the same category as Castrol Tection. :eek:This dude must be a comedian or a fruit cake, hard to tell which. :confused:I was forced to use Castrol products at my former job and this was a let down to say the least. Tection oil is the nastiest, smelliest, worst looking lubricants I have ever used. We went from Mobil to Castrol because of the price. You know how these big companies cut cost and damn the quality. I just don't see it posible that Amsoil and Rotella synthetic oil having anything in common with Castrol Tection lubricant other than they are sold to the public.

If you have never used any Tection lubes here is a mental picture to go by. Have a waste oil tank that stores the following: engine oil (diesel and gas) hyd, tranny fluid, gear oil and then mix in some extra stinky crusher oil to finish it off. Now get a gallon jug filled with waste oil and pour it thru a funnel with a screen filter in the bottom. Wipe the catch jug off and stick a new Castrol Tection label on. You think I'm joking, go get some and look for yourself. No matter what weight or grade you have it's all a dark nasty looking green color and smells like a 3 day old summer time s!:t house. :mad: This stuff is so bad it doesn't even make good bar oil for a saw. :D
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,440
78
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Kuboman, You've got my vote on the IH Hy-tran fluid. That is high quality lube if there has ever been one. We used it for years in all our IH stuff. I say IH, in everything that required hyd fluid.
 

kuboman

Member
Dec 6, 2009
725
6
16
Canada
Kuboman, You've got my vote on the IH Hy-tran fluid. That is high quality lube if there has ever been one. We used it for years in all our IH stuff. I say IH, in everything that required hyd fluid.
It sure makes life simpler to use one oil. I use it in all our equipment no matter what the color. I am sure that Kubota's oil is top notch and there are many others that are just as good. I just started with IH and have stuck with it. I do think there are some discount oils that are a lot cheaper that are not as good so I stick with a proven performer.