B9200HST 4WD struggles uphill

[Redjos80]

Wolfman,

Apologies for messing up the acronym "FEL". Thanks for the correction.

Yesterday, I had a breakthrough. I turned the Implement Lowering Speed Control knob all the way in (clockwise) and lowered the Position Control Lever. The tractor immediately performed with nearly full power. I was able to go up a slight grade with a bucket full of recycled concrete in "MIDDLE" range! I was able to smooth the recycled concrete in "LOW" at a much lower engine RPM (1500-ish). However, after about 4 minutes and going up a significant grade the tractor complete went into neutral (possibly bypass?) and I rolled back down the hill. I could only get the tractor to move again by placing the Position Control Lever in the full up position and now it's back to performing mediocre again.

Attached are photos of the hydraulic system and numbers corresponding with the owners manual (#4,5, and 6). I'm including owners manual screenshots so I'm on the same page with you. I'm guessing I have a BF300 series BH (not markings). I found an old BF300 parts manual and my plumbing appears to be correct MINUS the extra weird larger quick connect (see photos).

Yes, I need to test the pressure of the pump and purchased a 3000psi gauge from Northern Tool for $13. I need a couple more fitting and I'll "T" is into the FEL hand control on the #4 line. Please let me know if this a good location to test pump pressure.

I truly believe something sinister is wrong with the control valve as the WSM states "Implement Does Not Lower" - Control Valve Malfunctioning- page S.8-1

I'll send another message with more photos.

 

[Redjos80]

More photos

I wanted to include photos of my BH to clear up earlier posts about the BH hydraulics not being a factor and it a subframe mounted BH. Thanks.

 

[Redjos80]

Last round of photos

Pressure tester and BF300 diagram

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you turn the valve (top side) on the hydraulic block you eliminate the FEL all together.
What happens when you turn that valve?
Does everything else work the same?

 

[Redjos80]

I turned it all the way clockwise and the FEL shut off completely. The tractor still moved but I didn’t really notice a performance improvement. I did not look to see if the rear lift arms moved nor did I try to move them. However, when I opened the diverter nut (full counter clockwise) the FEL didn’t work. I had to back it off about a 1/4 turn before it would work again.

 

[D2Cat]

In your first picture you have lines marked 4,5,6. Just above #5 is a smaller hex head. That originally had a steel roll pin sticking out of a hole in the top of it and it was painted red.

I do remember that pin (which showed the location of the valve) had to be in a particular position to get the hyd. to work correctly. Maybe North Idaho Wolfman can comment as to what position it needs to be in. I'd have to go dig out my B8200 book.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep D2Cat is right, the roll pin that would be in the shaft of the valve below the nut and the two stop springs shown missing in red would put the valve in the right positions.

That block also has the pressure relief valve in it.

And to test the pressure you don't need to tee into an output of the loader control, just pick a line take it off and put the gauge in place of the line.

 

[Redjos80]

Wolfman,

Finally attached the pressure gauge and did some diagnostics.

First, the highest system pressure I can achieve is 1950psi with the FEL max out in the dump position and in reverse. I think that is a little low.

Next, the directional control nut. I turned it in every possible direction and aligned it with the marker. It changed the system pressure from 300psi to 500psi. Of note, the nut keeps turning endlessly in either direction. There’s no stop. I believe this is a problem.

Thirdly, the highest pressure I can achieve while driving the tractor is 300psi. The pressure is even lower (100-200psi) in MID range. Again, I believe this is why the tractor is weak going uphill.

Lastly, and the most confusing. The damn tractor will barely moving when I adjust the position control lever full down. The lift arms stay up and I believe this is causing me to lose pressure.

I’m headed to the Kubota dealer in the morning and I’m ready to just throw money that the problem. I’m open to any and all suggestions. Thanks the the help.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Your pressures are on the money in fact they are 20PSI over stock.

You won't really get a pressure rise on the main system with the HST use.

With the stops missing it's hard to get the diverter valve in the proper position, but because you have the loader attached it really doesn't matter, the flow will go either direction, it just effects how much flow is available for the loader to use.

The rear three point control is the most likely candidate for where your issue is coming from, I say having a dealer look at it might be a good option, but I wouldn't hold my breath, as most mechanics now do not know how to troubleshoot older machines.

 

[Redjos80]

Wolfman,

Thanks for the quick response. I plan to just throw parts at the problem and see what happens. I don’t believe I need a hydraulic pump because the pressures are within tolerance. I’m leaning toward the control lever and the valves.

Do you believe the HST is still the issue? I’m still not ready to split the tractor this season but will get ready come Fall.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Wolfman,

Thanks for the quick response. I plan to just throw parts at the problem and see what happens. I don’t believe I need a hydraulic pump because the pressures are within tolerance. I’m leaning toward the control lever and the valves.

Do you believe the HST is still the issue? I’m still not ready to split the tractor this season but will get ready come Fall.

No I think the issue is in the three point control valve.
I would be taking it apart myself and checking it.

 

[Redjos80]

Beyond frustrated with this tractor.

It is demonically possessed!

I’ve done nothing except get the lift arms lowered and opened the valve under the seat. Now, it gets stuck in forward and reverse(no longer a nuetral?). I nearly drove straight through my new metal building. I haven’t even touched the control valve nor tried to rebuild it.

About to call it quits and just buy a new tractor.

 

[sdk1968]

buy a new tractor...


then play with this one until you get it right...


or sell it to someone here on OTT.

just be warned ahead of time: its an ego blow when any of us works on something until we cant take it anymore & sells it....

then in about 5 mins the next guy fixes it & rubs it in how easy it was for the next year.


it happens. its happened to me twice.