Sweet property! I see snow there but not a blower...do you find yourself wanting/needing more HP at all for any application?I wouldn't change a thing
I purchased a BX2380 recently, it is NOT overly powerful so no way I'd choose the BX1880 if I had it to do over. I paid $14,750 for a BX2380 with standard FEL and standard 54" MMM. Recommend you compare specs and capacities between the two, start with tires the BX1880 are smaller.
It's not like you're wasting any money. The 2380 will always be worth more money, and may be easier to sell if you ever decide to go bigger. Just look at what these tractors go for used, they hold their value pretty good as long as they are taken care of.I may never need the extra PTO hp but I’d rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it down the line...although 2k is a good chunk of change to save.
Not a silly question and yes, you will gain something in the way of useable traction. However, you will need a strain-gauge and slide rule to figure it out. The difference is going to be mighty small.Maybe a silly question but if the 2380 has bigger tires would not the size and additional weight provide a little more useable traction?
Yes and this "you will run out of traction before you run out of power" is nonsense. I stalled my B2920 several times and it had WAY more grunt than this BX2380.Maybe a silly question but if the 2380 has bigger tires would not the size and additional weight provide a little more useable traction?
Love my x530 but can’t keep both, no storage for both. So although I’d love to go bigger, the primary use of what I get will be mowing, with bucket and snow removal next.I also have a JD X530 that I love for mowing and hauling carts, and rototilling. But the 47” snowblower is a bit much for it at times here in Maine.
My lot is less than 2 acres, 3/4 wooded, and I want to cut most of it to burn, and landscape those areas, some of which are very rocky and hilly.
I chose a L2501, with 66” bucket and 64” rear snowblower. I’ve used the snowblower twice on the last 2 nor’easter, one 15” really wet and heavy, the other 22” and a little less wet. I’m glad I didn’t get the B2650 I was debating on buying instead. Same horsepower basically, but the extra 1k in weight has already come in handy and the little extra width makes it feel a lot more stable. I really like the over 13” of ground clearance and the loader capacity. I have a 66” box blade, a 4” chipper, and pallet forks as well.
Of course I spent about 10k more than you’re talking about but I know I won’t be looking for a bigger tractor.
Some of the things I want to do couldn’t be done by a much smaller machine and I still might need to rent an excavator before I’m done, but that’s ok. I’d be spending a lot more on rentals if I’d gone smaller.
I’m not criticizing your choice, just giving you something to think about. I’m 60 and will never buy another tractor, but I see a lot of guys selling their BX and upgrading to a B or L after a few years and I didn’t want to be one of those guys. I actually put a Johnny Bucket Jr on my X530 the summer I bought it and used it to build a brick patio. I pretty much destroyed the bucket, the tractor is fine, but not enough weight to really do anything serious with. That’s why I didn’t even look at a BX. Too similar in size and weight for working in the woods and the B just seemed too top heavy by comparison.
I’m keeping the X530 btw. The L2501 is too heavy to mow the lawn with so that’s a consideration.
Once I check out my wife will sell any tractor I buy anyway but she’ll keep the X530 because she can operate it. Someone else will be clearing the snow for her though. Meanwhile I can comfortably do so many things with my tractor that I couldn’t do before.
Best of luck with whatever you choose. You can’t go wrong with Kubota.
Yes and this "you will run out of traction before you run out of power" is nonsense. I stalled my B2920 several times and it had WAY more grunt than this BX2380.
The BX2380 is slow pokey at anything below half throttle, mostly I'm 2000 to 3000 rpms where the B2920 got a lot of work done at less than half throttle, FEL, backhoe, much more lower throttle hydraulic grunt with its dual pumps vs the BX2380 single pump.
Looks like you are correct. It would appear that they have 2,500 right smack-dab in the middle of the loader range.If I’m correct, the New 80 series BX have the sweet spot for FEL and mowed rpms show. Right on the tachometer. If true that’s good learning for a noob like me.
Not nonsense at allYes and this "you will run out of traction before you run out of power" is nonsense. I stalled my B2920 several times and it had WAY more grunt than this BX2380.
The BX2380 is slow pokey at anything below half throttle, mostly I'm 2000 to 3000 rpms where the B2920 got a lot of work done at less than half throttle, FEL, backhoe, much more lower throttle hydraulic grunt with its dual pumps vs the BX2380 single pump.
LOL its total nonsense. I was spreading fertilizer yesterday, the BX2380 was lugging down climbing the mild slopes in my yard I had to have the RPM's 2,500 or it felt like the little thing was struggling power wise. And that's with the FEL sitting in the garage, just the mower deck on and a tow behind spreader with 2 bags of weed and feed.Not nonsense at all. You have to understand the machine. For one thing, loader work should be done at a minimum of 2,500-2,600rpm. Mowing will be at 3,000rpm or higher. It's by design, that's where these engines make power. Don't have to like it but that's just the way it is. You can't run a BX like you would run a B on a given job. Then again, you can't run a B like you would run an MX.
A BX used correctly will absolutely, positively run out of traction before it runs out of power. Keep the RPM's where they should be and accept that Low Range is where most work will be done. That too, is by design.