2014 L4060 Will not start. Cranks won't fire
- Thread starter Heli8ight
- Start date
Sorry it was me reporting it incorrectly I looked at several Google pages and some how had a short circuit in my brain! - The other issue is this is a generic code used by many car manufactures. So the question then is what does it really mean to Kubota? My fuel pump is working so I believe it was caused by me unplugging things as stated by 100 td. I am scheduling to deliver the tractor to the Kubota dealer asap and will post the issue.
P0627 - Fuel Pump 'A' Control Circuit/Open
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I am by no means a expert yet on this tractor. but here are a couple of pictures of the area I focused on while checking for fuel flow. I am not recommending anyone follows my steps because again I am shooting in the dark. While talking with the Kubota service department no one yelled at me they just said stay the heck out of the common fuel rail system and I think this is more of a safety issue than anything. The original problem started with the tractor simply quitting on me, it chugged out like it ran out of fuel After a minute I was able to start the tractor again and made it probably another 60ft low idle back towards the garage. This time it would not restart so being pretty cold out I pulled the water separator and fuel filter and there was some gelling. So I thought hey no problem I brought both filters into the basement and let them thaw out for 24 hrs (80 degrees) . The next evening I flushed both with 911 and then filled the primary filter with new diesel and bleed the system(filter). The tractor would not start so I thought well I must have gelling in the lines so the tractor was towed into a heated garage where is has sat now for several days. I have confirmed the pump will fill the water separator, it will prime the fuel filter, secondary fuel container/tank and I also pulled the Bosch pressure valve out so I know am getting fuel to this point with the fuel pump. I think I have safely covered the small and easy stuff. I did check all of the safety circuits I could find but again most of those when tripped wont let the tractor crank over.
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If you can get them to tell you what codes Diagmaster finds and post them It'll be a big help for future people, also what they do to fix it!
There is another possible cause for your original problem that wouldn't have totally been solved by soaking the filter in 911, and that is algae. If you don't put many hours on your tractor, you probably don't use much fuel, and if you weren't using an algicide a chunk of algae or bacterial slime that grew during the summer broke loose and is clogging a line somewhere. These tractors have divided tanks, and it sure makes it hard to know how well mixed any treatment is.
What you need to know to verify if the fuel delivery system is working properly is what rail pressure you have. I guess you could plumb in some kind of gauge that reads 20000 to 30000 PSI but diagmaster does it for you!
If you haven't dropped it at the dealer yet, and want to spend some more time, remove the fuel line at the inlet to the HP fuel pump and ensure you have an unobstructed fuel flow, also check to see if the is an inlet screen in the HP pump, and see if it is clean. Be sure not to introduce any dirt particles into line or pump. You could alternatively check at the outlet of the filter, but that doesn't prove the line is clear. Maybe it's one for the dealer to do, JIC. YMMV
Is it really 20 to 30k I was under the impression these systems were in the 2000 to 3000psi range.
I wish I had the shop manual because I would tear into this a bit deeper. With out it I am not even sure I could confidently find the HP pump. The schematic you posted is similar to my setup but not exact. Fuel is definitely not getting to the common rail system I am 100% confident of that. I have run the tractor out of fuel before so I know what a typical priming is like and this is certainly not it. I wont be able to get the tractor to the shop until the end of next week so I have some time with it. Last night while hanging out with my orange mistress and checking a couple more fuel hoses, I sprayed some diesel on the air filter ducting and noticed this morning that it was completely evaporated which was a bit strange. It seems like when I spill diesel it stays around for a while? So I am tempted to drain the entire fuel system and start over, however I find it hard to believe the fuel would be bad enough that it would atheist run like crap. The tractor was running great right before it gently stalled out.
I guess it isn't over 20000 like the M tractors but it IS high enough at 9500-10000 psi! (3700 to 4300 at idle)
North Idaho Wolfman
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If it's evaporating it's not diesel, I'm a little concerned that you have gasoline contaminated fuel. 
X2 on NIW's concerns!
If that's the case I'd certainly be running some new fuel, think back, any chance the wrong drum or tank was used by somebody(doesn't matter who, if it's happened it's happened), to top the tractor up? What does this "fuel" feel like, gasoline/water/other? Anyone leave the tractor out in the snow with the fuel cap off, or wash the tractor?
If it was me, and I had any inkling of contamination, I would drain fuel filter, grab a clean drum of diesel, run a hose into it, hook it up to the inlet of the electric pump, fill/flush fuel filter and line, bleed clean fuel to inlet of HP pump, then disconnect an outlet line on the rail (I would probably bleed at each injector) and crank engine over to flush clean fuel to rail and injector lines. Close up line and crank for start and see how you go. If you have a win, REMOVE fuel tank and lines and totally flush and clean all the way to the fuel pump. Big job, but a costly tractor to repair if contamination gets into fuel system. Be aware of high pressure atomized sprayed fuel, extremely dangerous, if you have plenty of openings for fuel to flow you won't get high pressure building up. YMMV
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That's a scary thought!
I only use a yellow can for diesel so it would be pretty hard for me to get them confused. But after spraying the fuel on the air filter duct work I was certain I was going to have to get up the next day and clean it but it was gone, like it was never there. In the last day or so in checking the fuel lines the diesel smells normal but I think I am fully on board with draining the tank and flushing the system. The tractor did sit out in some snow and rain for a few days which is not typical for mine.
Narrowing the issues down, I think I have it narrowed down to a few items with everyones help.
-Bad or contaminated fuel (the diesel I have been getting on my hands seems normal and has a smell that you just about cant wash off)
-The high pressure pump mechanism has failed. Diesel is running through the pump.
-ECU
I only use a yellow can for diesel so it would be pretty hard for me to get them confused. But after spraying the fuel on the air filter duct work I was certain I was going to have to get up the next day and clean it but it was gone, like it was never there. In the last day or so in checking the fuel lines the diesel smells normal but I think I am fully on board with draining the tank and flushing the system. The tractor did sit out in some snow and rain for a few days which is not typical for mine.
Narrowing the issues down, I think I have it narrowed down to a few items with everyones help.
-Bad or contaminated fuel (the diesel I have been getting on my hands seems normal and has a smell that you just about cant wash off)
-The high pressure pump mechanism has failed. Diesel is running through the pump.
-ECU
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I know you are reluctant to have the dealer do a service call but the advantage if they did is that you would get to see for yourself what Diagmaster does and what it finds. If it goes back to their shop it disappears into the bowels of that mysterious place and you have no idea what they actually do! If they find the component that has failed it is possible that you could install it yourself and save the second service call. If you are changing electrical components relative to the CR system do it with the battery disconnected.
I'll be surprised if your dealer will just order in a few thousand dollars worth of parts in case you need them. There is likely only one part need replacing if that.
Here is something you can try.. Swap the two relays that are located beside the ECU. one is power to the ecu and the other is for the glow plugs. there has been some issues with the ecu relay freezing in cold weather and creating a no start. yours likely isn't frozen but it could have failed and is a 1 minute job to try! The ECU is beside the left rear tire. The ECU relay is the one closer to the front of the tractor
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I guess I was expecting a high pressure pump and a ECU to be pretty stamdard parts on these new tractors that they would carry. Buuuuut maybe not....did you say a few thousand dollars.......?
I will look into this thank you. I am on a work trip for a couple days. Updates will be a bit slow.