My tractor recently stalled on me for what i thought was a fuel jelling problem. I have cleared all seperators and fuel filters and can confirm that fuel is getting to the first point it hits the engine block. From that point on fuel is not getting into the common rail system. The only bleeding process for this tractor is at the filter and this is not the issue. There is a fuel sensor at this point fuel doesn't seem to be travelling past but maybe it's a fuel shut off. I have been informed that I'm not really supposed to have to bleed this common rail system like you might on older tractors. 3
2014 L4060 Will not start. Cranks won't fire
- Thread starter Heli8ight
- Start date
You don't have to bleed the lines but you should be able to disconnect the return to see it sprays. The system should pressurize with the key on if it's like most common rail systems.
Do not use ether!
Do not use ether!
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
get a block heater and install it. Warm everything up with that. If can't do that yet find a warm place to tow it into and use heaters in there to warm it up good.
Yup. I can see the system fuel pump is working and builds pressure allowing me to bleed the filter. The tractor is now in a heated garage and has been there for about 10 hours. This morning it still would not start but I will try again this evening.
No ether...got it.
Thank you
No ether...got it.
Thank you
coachgeo
Well-known member
Equipment
L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
test glow plug circuit? hmmm does this model have safety switches.... maybe one that activates a fuel shut off solenoid?
Last edited:
In the wsm besides the usual suspects that you are working with ( fuel, air, water where they shouldn't be), it lists fuel leak due to loose injection pipe retaining nut. Do not loosen for 5 min after engine has been running and maybe cranking due to high pressure. And check wsm for torque values.
Also fuel with low cetane number, but I doubt if that applies to your problem.
There are two places that you have to look at after changing filters. One is a nut on top of the fuel filter, and the second is the little lever above the fuel separator. Did you open that lever? Also near by there is a fuel pipe that has a 90 degree bend in it. Some other folks have found clogs in that bend.
Then bleeding procedure is open air vent plug on fuel filter about 2 turns. Turn on key for 1 minute, or until fuel bubbles out. Close plug. Set throttle to minimum, and turn key to start, wait for glow plug symbol to go away if necessary first. Crank for 10 sec at 30 sec intervals.
Sorry if your recent observation rules this out, wasn't sure where you were looking.
Beyond these things, I would check to see if any other things aren't covered by your warranty. 5 yrs on engine and related parts.
Also fuel with low cetane number, but I doubt if that applies to your problem.
There are two places that you have to look at after changing filters. One is a nut on top of the fuel filter, and the second is the little lever above the fuel separator. Did you open that lever? Also near by there is a fuel pipe that has a 90 degree bend in it. Some other folks have found clogs in that bend.
Then bleeding procedure is open air vent plug on fuel filter about 2 turns. Turn on key for 1 minute, or until fuel bubbles out. Close plug. Set throttle to minimum, and turn key to start, wait for glow plug symbol to go away if necessary first. Crank for 10 sec at 30 sec intervals.
Sorry if your recent observation rules this out, wasn't sure where you were looking.
Beyond these things, I would check to see if any other things aren't covered by your warranty. 5 yrs on engine and related parts.
Last edited:
So tonight I again confirmed:
-All fuses front to back look good
-Fuel through the filter looks good ...bled etc
-No fuel is getting into the high pressure portion of the system. Cranking produces no white smoke from the exhaust.
- The first solenoid? Or sensor? that fuel hits is getting just under 10volts. This is where it appears fuel comes from the filter and is then introduced Into the metal high pressure lines. This is where I think the problem is!
- No dash code alarms
I have not checked the glow plug circuit does this prevent fuel flow?
What return line can I disconnect? Is this the one that comes back to the filter?
I should note I only have 124hours on this tractor.
-All fuses front to back look good
-Fuel through the filter looks good ...bled etc
-No fuel is getting into the high pressure portion of the system. Cranking produces no white smoke from the exhaust.
- The first solenoid? Or sensor? that fuel hits is getting just under 10volts. This is where it appears fuel comes from the filter and is then introduced Into the metal high pressure lines. This is where I think the problem is!
- No dash code alarms
I have not checked the glow plug circuit does this prevent fuel flow?
What return line can I disconnect? Is this the one that comes back to the filter?
I should note I only have 124hours on this tractor.
I have not been able to figure out where you are looking, on the diagram I have for the 3560, it looks like you might be looking at a pump???? What you might do is go either to Messicks site or Kubota's and down load the parts diagram and look at the fuel flow diagrams. The flow is complicated (to me anyway) with the returns to and between the parts of the tank and to the fuel cooler. Since all of this is computer controlled you might be ahead of the game to take it to the dealer in case the original problem was not fuel gel but rather something to do with one of the pumps.
You will never see smoke from a DPF equipped tractor! You cannot fix this tractor yourself. Get a Kubota trained tech out with the proper software ( diagmaster) and he can tell you in a few minutes what the problem is. The mechanical parts of these tractor give almost no problems.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Also a note to anyone:
Testing "Sensors, Switches, Solonoids, or Valves" on a common rail system with normal meters and test lights is a big NO NO as you can fry the computer in the blink of an eye!
Testing "Sensors, Switches, Solonoids, or Valves" on a common rail system with normal meters and test lights is a big NO NO as you can fry the computer in the blink of an eye!
Also be very careful if you have to boost these tractors! One flash of reversed polarity and you will likely have a failed computer!
Manually and visually check all the connections to sensors. Look for corrosion, loose connections, damaged pins, etc
Yeah, I'm pretty close to winching this dead beast onto the trailer and dropping it of at the orange hospital. Being a 2014 with only 124 hrs on it, is a pretty tough pill to swallow!
I have looked at every switch, fitting you name it and I'm not seeing anything stand out as a potential issue. If you parked my tractor next to a brand new one you would find the same level of corrosion minus the bucket of course.
My tractor probably is not enjoying the very limited use, I have heard that these new engines like to run and run hot!
I have looked at every switch, fitting you name it and I'm not seeing anything stand out as a potential issue. If you parked my tractor next to a brand new one you would find the same level of corrosion minus the bucket of course.
My tractor probably is not enjoying the very limited use, I have heard that these new engines like to run and run hot!
Last edited:
Man if these tractors are that sensitive I wish I never bought one! The old tractors you could weld on them and it didn't kill them...what if I have a static charge when I get on this thing, is it smoked? I'm not at all doubting what you are saying either! The L4060 for me has been like buying a prius when you should have bought a truck.
I'm sure they would be happier if you haul it in but usually these kind of problems can be addressed with a service call.
Okay - So here is my theory on a service call, which I assume you mean onsite service? I called my dealer and there is no such thing as you call them and they help you fix the issue!
So for me a onsite service visit is 100.00 to get to my home plus 20Cents per mile. Then atleast an hour of work onsite 100.00 and then the return drive which will be 100.00 plus 20 cents per mile.
So here is the deal They can come to my home for atleast 300.00 dollars then lets say the tech says the issue is part of the common high pressure rail fuel system and I cannot fix it at your home! guess how much I owe them..yup 300.00 for nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So if I delivering little orange to the shop they pretty much have no excuses and I know that 200.00 dollars is going to good use. Assuming my time is free of course.
Thats about right! If you have the equipment and time hauling it in to the dealer is always the cheapest. You wouldn't believe how many customers refuse to do it though!
There are a couple of things to throw into the calculations...how soon do you need the tractor? Do you have to haul over icy roads to get there? Worth something to not get the tractor covered with salt.
Ask your dealer what it would cost if the faulty part is under warranty. Transportation is not typically included but tech time is.
Tech time at your house is also free education for you. You can watch what he or she does, and ask questions. That might not be possible at dealership.
Finally did you ever check the lever on the fuel line by the water separator? I'm still curious.
Ask your dealer what it would cost if the faulty part is under warranty. Transportation is not typically included but tech time is.
Tech time at your house is also free education for you. You can watch what he or she does, and ask questions. That might not be possible at dealership.
Finally did you ever check the lever on the fuel line by the water separator? I'm still curious.
It's worth checking that fuel lever allright but if it was off he wouldn't be able to bleed fuel at the main filter