BX 2750 Snowblower

[gdicks]

I upgraded my 04 bx 2230 to a 2013 bx25 but now the mid pto shaft for my bx2750 Snowblower is too short for the new machine. I've found that the fix is to replace the shaft on the male quick attach with a longer one rather than getting a new drive shaft to fit.

Problem is, I cant figure out how to remove the old one to replace it. There are two, two piece retaining collars with set screws but they dont appear to want to move and a bearing retaining ring on each side of the shaft that arent coming off either.

Question is what do I need to remove to let this shaft come out of the housing? Do I need to pull the bearings, or pull the retaining collars and in what order would you suggest?

 

[Kubota BX 1860]

I had the same issue when I traded my BX 1860 for a 2370. I figured I'd have to get a longer pto shaft, but the dealer told me the longer spline was required. Changing it must be more difficult than it looks, because when I mentioned doing it myself, my dealer said, "Um, you'd probably prefer to have us do it." I didn't argue.

 

[gdicks]

Yeah that's certainly an option, but I ran into the same setup on the blower driveline as well and it would be good to know how to remove them in the event a bearing needs replacing. I wouldnt want to pay the dealer for that lol.

 

[tcrote5516]

Bring it to a driveline shop who will cut and extend it. That's how I got mine hooked up for a grand total of $50.

 

[Dave_eng]

I upgraded my 04 bx 2230 to a 2013 bx25 but now the mid pto shaft for my bx2750 Snowblower is too short for the new machine. I've found that the fix is to replace the shaft on the male quick attach with a longer one rather than getting a new drive shaft to fit.

Problem is, I cant figure out how to remove the old one to replace it. There are two, two piece retaining collars with set screws but they dont appear to want to move and a bearing retaining ring on each side of the shaft that arent coming off either.

Question is what do I need to remove to let this shaft come out of the housing? Do I need to pull the bearings, or pull the retaining collars and in what order would you suggest?

You have Newfie Rust. Sea air and road salt locks everything together.

Steel that rusts grows larger than the steel itself so getting badly corroded things apart is always a struggle.

I would suggest you find new support bearings at the same time.

Go to a general bearing supplier and see what they can provide both in the bearings themselves and the locking collars.

With your new parts in hand, use an angle grinder to cut through the two locking collars with set screws.

I think you will find the shaft itself firmly rusted into the center of the bearings.

As I understand matters you need to get a longer shaft. If that is what you are going to do, then continue to cut the shaft and bearing attachment bolts with the angle grinder. Only try and save the bearing supports.

Be certain to be using a cutting disk for your angle grinder not a general grinding disk. The cutting disk is much thinner and in making a cut has to remove a lot less material.

If you had an Oxy Acet. torch, you could start heating things but in doing so the bearings will be destroyed anyway.

There is a tremendous improvement in quality when buying used equipment between a tractor which has never worked in salt and one which has traveled city streets in winter. Working on a ocean beach is just as bad. The salt accelerates corrosion dramatically.

I expect that the two support bearings will be like this flanged bearing. The steel part of the bearing is able to move withing the retaining plates holding the bearing to allow it to self align.

Remember, Kubota does not make snowblowers they buy then from a manufacturer (often in Quebec) who paints them the color for whatever product they will go on. Orange for Kubota, Green for John Deere.

Dave

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

gdicks I put mine together 3 years ago. I pulled the manual for assembly that I'm uploading. So I'm guessing just reverse the process, hope it helps.

 

[gdicks]

gdicks I put mine together 3 years ago. I pulled the manual for assembly that I'm uploading. So I'm guessing just reverse the process, hope it helps.

View attachment 33288

Thanks! I guess brute force is required after all.

 

[gdicks]

Bring it to a driveline shop who will cut and extend it. That's how I got mine hooked up for a grand total of $50.

Now that Im seeing that the other option is more difficult than I had hoped, yours may be a simpler solution. Im nervous cutting into the driveshaft though, just doesnt sound safe. Somehow I cant see this being a $50 modification.

 

[gdicks]

You have Newfie Rust. Sea air and road salt locks everything together.

No doubt salt is the enemy especially on a 13 year old implement. I think ill have to price a driveshaft first. Replacing shaft, bearings, retainers and collars cant be cheaper...

 

[gdicks]

$275 CAD for the replacement longer splined shaft.

I let the shaft marinate in loosening fluid overnight and the collars are freeing up now so fingers crossed that the bearings will release with some elbow grease and Ill be back in business. Albeit $300 poorer...

 

[BAP]

Take some emery cloth or sand paper and polish the shaft up before you try to slide it in the bearings. It will come out much easier and save from damaging the bearings.

 

[gdicks]

gdicks I put mine together 3 years ago. I pulled the manual for assembly that I'm uploading. So I'm guessing just reverse the process, hope it helps.

View attachment 33288

Thanks for this SLIM. Something didnt look right to me when I was sizing up the way its currently put together and your diagram confirms my thinking. The bearings should have been on the outside to allow a puller to get a hold of them, not on the inside like they are on my unit where there is no way to get anything on them to release the bearings. Also the two retaining collars on mine are not stopping the shaft from sliding in the bearings....... Not sure how the shaft wasn't able to move side to side when first installed. Although there was probably enough play in the drivesfaft female end that it wouldn't have come apart anyway. Odd...

Picked up all the new parts yesterday, and about to start removing the old by force. Smoke Wrench and cutting implements are on the agenda. Thanks for the help Guys! I posted this on another forum and got one unhelpful response.... I know where I'll be spending my time in future!

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Your welcome and goodluck!

 

[Dave_eng]

I am not trying to argue with anyone but read paragraph 3 of the installation instructions previously posted.

It says that the set screw for the bearing needs to be loctited. Not that the setscrew is in its own collar.

If you look at the photo of the new bearing I posted, the collar and setscrew are part of the bearing not separate collars.

This means it does not matter which way the bearing and collar are connected to the mounting bracket.

The outer hard steel surface of the bearing is not flat but spherical. The two halves of the bearing holder have rounded holes to allow the bearings to self align. This type of bearing is often used on the auger of snow blowers because of its self aligning feature.

When you have the new parts could you please post some pictures.

Best of luck with your repair.

Dave

 

[rowe cbr]

Its really not that big a deal i replaced that shaft 2 years ago came apart no problem i bought another drive shaft thinking that would solve the short shaft problem then found out it was spline shaft that was short oh well more garage art work