Sub frame build for a loader

[Daren Todd]

Bucktail, Mine was 2wd so it was simpler to install. The steering arm was a bugger to figure out distance. Especially on the pivot by the clutch pedal. Thought I had it all set, the realized that I needed to cycle the suspension to double check the clearance. That meant a removal of the bracket and more slicing and dicing.

Yours is gonna be a more in-depth build with having to account for the drive shaft. Be sure to post lots of pictures of your build process for the greater good

A few other members have l1500's with loaders. Maybe you can get them to take some good pictures of how the subframe mounts

 

[D2Cat]

Bucktail, I have some pictures on my computer, and there may be some on the forum of the brackets I made for my L305. It has a Massey 1246 loader. I had to make the brackets that bolt to the side of the block, then cross under the engine to get to the other side. It's 4x4 so I had to have spacers to get it all below the drive shaft.

If you want, I'm sure I can come up with some pictures that may help you with some ideas.

 

[bucktail]

Is it necessary to tie the front bracket into the rear? This is the part that has me scratching my head. The front driveshaft goes right where I would put the subframe going from front to back. Also, how critical is the height? My thoughts are that the bucket should be right at ground level when the bucket is level and the boom is all the way down. Is my assumption right, and will it matter if it's a couple of inches low?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Is it necessary to tie the front bracket into the rear? This is the part that has me scratching my head. The front driveshaft goes right where I would put the subframe going from front to back. Also, how critical is the height? My thoughts are that the bucket should be right at ground level when the bucket is level and the boom is all the way down. Is my assumption right, and will it matter if it's a couple of inches low?

It's supposed to be about 4 Inches lower, at full bottom in order for it to dig properly.

And yes the rear axle bars are very important.
If you don't do those you risk stressing the clutch housing too much and breaking the tractor in the middle.

 

[Daren Todd]

Bucktail, usually on the subframe, they run down the side. So the front drive shaft shouldn't be an issue. Should be able to put a cross member in tied to the bottom and sides of the transmission. The run to the front and rear off that cross member down the side of the tractor.


Another member ripped the front end of his tractor off because the subframe bolts had loosened up on the front end


So I would reccomend both front and rear bars tied to the center of your tractor.

 

[D2Cat]

Here's a few pictures for reference. I put a piece of square tubing parallal to the drive shaft to attach the bracket going under the tractor to.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I know what your saying, your issue is because the front drive shaft runs down the side of the tractor and not the center.
Well you should still be able to attach axle bars outside of the shaft.
If not go down the center with them.

 

[Daren Todd]

I know what your saying, your issue is because the front drive shaft runs down the side of the tractor and not the center.
Well you should still be able to attach axle bars outside of the shaft.
If not go down the center with them.

Well dang, I was figuring it went down the center underneath like most other tractors. I wonder if the engineer got fired after that mess, or worse

 

[bucktail]

So the front bracket is just going to be a matter of unbolting the bumper and replacing it with the bracket. The back is going to suck. I need to figure out how to post pictures.

 

[bucktail]

So if the attachment succeeded this is the loader I'm working with. The hooks on the front can slide back and forth on u bolts

 

[D2Cat]

How does the width fit your tractor? There can be some variance, but you tractor HAS to fit between the arms!

 

[bucktail]

These are the Belarus brackets

 

[bucktail]

How does the width fit your tractor? There can be some variance, but you tractor HAS to fit between the arms!

It's wide enough. The seller measured 28 inches between the booms . That might have made me move the muffler but I measured it over 30 so I should be okay

 

[D2Cat]

I got some cribbing and set the loader towers on that and then the front of the arms with the bucket flat on the ground. That was a starting point. I eventually built an A frame to hold it all while I could pull the tractor in and get measurements and ideas.

First two pictures are when I was unloading it from my trip to Beebe, Arkansas.

 

[bucktail]

Hey Daren, How thick are the walls on the 2X2 you used?

 

[Daren Todd]

Hey Daren, How thick are the walls on the 2X2 you used?

1/4" I think, but don't hold me to that. I'll measure tonight when I get home. Still got about 10ft left over on the 20ft stick I had to buy. I didn't really pay attention to the thickness at the time I bought it.

I got with the owner of the local fab shop and explained what I was doing. He checked the book for how much weight it took to break (shear force) on the tubing he had at his shop, and I purchased based on that instead.

 

[bucktail]

Thanks Daren

 

[Daren Todd]

Yup, the 2x2 tubing is 1/4" thick.

 

[bucktail]

When you attached the mounts for the towers to the bell housing did you only bolt it to the sides or did you use the bottom as well? If not did you fit the crossmember tight to the underside of the bell housing?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When you attached the mounts for the towers to the bell housing did you only bolt it to the sides or did you use the bottom as well? If not did you fit the crossmember tight to the underside of the bell housing?

Yes the sub-frame cross member should also bolt to the bottom, mine has a gap filled in by risers that make it hit the bottom of the clutch housing.