B1750 Clutch and left brake act together

[noah1]

Hi everyone,

I have a B1750HST 1996 (I believe). I'll list my symptoms:

1. The clutch does not disengage the drive wheels or the PTO.
2. The clutch pedal engages the left brake pedal.

Things I've checked/looked at:
1. Pulled the pin connecting the left brake pedal to the shaft
->Left wheel still braked by clutch pedal. Left brake pedal loose!
2. Verified clutch linkage is connected and moving. I noticed the clutch pedal has one short linkage which I assume runs to the clutch, and a second linkage running back to the rear of the tractor. Both appear to moving freely.
3. Drive shaft under the filter housing cover spins at all times (clutch pressed or not) when tractor is running.

The tractor runs and starts fine with the PTO engaged or disengaged.

Any ideas? Frozen clutch? I can snap some pictures if it would help.

Thanks!

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
The clutch pedal pivots on the brake shaft. Is it possible the clutch pedal hasn't been greased and is froze to the brake shaft. The clutch pedal should not be moving along rod for the brakes. The clutch pedal only floats on the brake shaft. If the clutch pedal is froze up on the brake shaft you may not be getting enough throw to release the clutch. You should have at least 3 grease fittings across the bottom of the tractor on the pedals. Good luck. Lance

 

[noah1]

Thanks for the reply! I have greased at least two, on each of the extreme ends of the central pedal shaft. I noticed some snap rings on the shaft I'll tear it apart and report back.


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[noah1]

As an update, I've verified that the left brake and clutch are indeed frozen together on the pivot shaft. Some penetrating oil and light percussive maintenance by a 200 lb gorilla haven't quite broken it free yet.

I'll post some more pics this weekend in case anyone else runs across this.

 

[85Hokie]

As an update, I've verified that the left brake and clutch are indeed frozen together on the pivot shaft. Some penetrating oil and light percussive maintenance by a 200 lb gorilla haven't quite broken it free yet.

I'll post some more pics this weekend in case anyone else runs across this.

You might need a bigger gorilla

Let her soak some more ....and more...and ....more! Then allow the gorilla to place some more pressure on it......

If in a position to "tap" on it - do so, sometimes a vibration will allow the "rust" to free, and or allow the oil to penetrate better.

Nothing can withstand the force of a good fashion "gorilla"

 

[al m]

try a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone as the penetrating fluid

 

[mendonsy]

Some heat on the clutch pedal hub will help the penetrating oil work also. If it's not in a place that is safe to use a propane torch, try pointing a halogen work light at it. Even a little bit helps.

 

[D2Cat]

I second what al m said. Many think WD40 is a penetrating oil (in case that is what you are using). It's a rust inhibitor. The 50/50 mix will free it up if it is "freeable".

 

[noah1]

I second what al m said. Many think WD40 is a penetrating oil (in case that is what you are using). It's a rust inhibitor. The 50/50 mix will free it up if it is "freeable".

Thanks all. I'm using PB blaster penetrating spray. I've had great success with it, however, it takes some time and multiple applications. I'll give the ATF acetone a try and some heat from a torch (not at the same time, have fire extinguisher handy!).

 

[D2Cat]

DON'T use a torch on acetone!!

 

[85Hokie]

DON'T use a torch on acetone!!

As D2Cat said.......even HEAT around this stuff is bad news........

if you think gasoline is flammable......this stuff is off the chart!


"The most hazardous property of acetone is its extreme flammability. At temperatures greater than acetone's flash point of ***8722;20 °C (***8722;4 °F), air mixtures of between 2.5% and 12.8% acetone, by volume, may explode or cause a flash fire"

 

[noah1]

LOL! Ok you all have convinced me!. Acetone+Torch=Bad.

I'll use PB blaster and an air chisel. I believe I can disconnect the left wheel brake linkage and pound out the connecting rod from the right side. Looks like a snap ring. Still waiting on my WSM to show up and haven't found a digital copy

 

[al m]

Honestly,the atf acetone mix is amazing,and no matter what you are using ,a torch under a tractor is scary

 

[noah1]

Hey all!

So my 200 lb gorilla pulled out a 6' piece of angle iron and a 10 lb sledge to work on the left brake clutch pivot point. After a couple heat/cool cycles from the torch (no acetone!) and after disconnecting the brake linkage I tapped the steel brake tab from the loader end and the back of the tractor. Once I started to see movement the pneumatic hammer made short work of it. Took about 45 minuets of chin scratching and gorilla hammer swinging.

Unfortunately, the clutch is definitely frozen. I can press the pedal almost to the floor board and the HST & PTO are still engaged. The tractor makes an interesting whine different form the normal HST whine when the clutch is pressed and I accelerate hard. Maybe the throw out bearing making noise? Or just the clutch protesting under load in an unnatural position.

Assuming I'll have to split the tractor at some point to fix it.

 

[MtnDon]

I have my B1750 split right now replacing the clutch so i have couple of suggestions. Have you attempted to adjust the free-play? While you have the pbblaster out you may want to shoot some on the pivot points for the clutch release shaft there is one on each side of the bell housing. Also have you greased the bearing holder? There is a Zurich fitting on the release bearing holder you can access it from a hole in the bell housing on the left side. spray some blaster from underneath in the area where the bearing holder passes thru the bell housing it may be binding there. I included some pics of the side of my bell housing and a parts break down from the parts list. Good luck if you do end up splitting you may find like I did that almost most every part I removed needed seals so I have had to stop and order parts about three times as I discover them.