2012 L4600-Red Coolant

Creature Meadow

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
Sep 19, 2016
1,065
140
63
54
Central North Carolina
Good afternoon folks have a question about coolant, I searched and read a number of posts on coolant but found none that answered my question.

Purchased some standard green Prestone antifreeze last week and much to my surprise when I opened the cap on the radiator to start the flush and refill it was red.

I took a big clear syringe and pulled out some and sure enough it was red in color.

So, do I carry back my green and get red or ok to flush, fill, run, with water 3 or 4 times then fill with my green?

Or, do the same but still return green and get red?

Thoughts and insight would be most helpful.

I have the manual and it simply says use (EG) type for this engine and the green is (EG).

Jay
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,434
76
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
If you're going to run the green you need to flush it out so all the red is gone. Just make sure the green you have is safe for all systems.

That said the red should be extended life coolant and will last 2 or 3 times longer than the green will. If you have the correct green I see no problem with using it as long as it's fully flushed.
 

rjcorazza

Member

Equipment
L4060 HSTC Loader, ZD326, ZD1211
Mar 9, 2016
778
25
18
Hyattstown, MD
I don’t mix antifreeze on general principle... best case it reduces the resulting mix to the lowest common denominator.
Who knows what the red coolant is in there now, there are numerous red / pink coolants on the market. I ditch the standard green in all of my Kubota machines after thoroughly flushing. My personal replacement choice is Zerex G05 (HOAT) which has a five year interval. Many here like Fleet Charge coolant.
Anyway, thoroughly flushing the system would be prudent since you don’t know for certain what coolant is currently in the tractor, - take the opportunity to get an extended life coolant in your machine. JMHO
 

Creature Meadow

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
Sep 19, 2016
1,065
140
63
54
Central North Carolina
If you're going to run the green you need to flush it out so all the red is gone. Just make sure the green you have is safe for all systems.

That said the red should be extended life coolant and will last 2 or 3 times longer than the green will. If you have the correct green I see no problem with using it as long as it's fully flushed.
Bulldog, you run Amsoil coolant?

Believe I will return my Prestone standard and get me some extended life.

Still do a good flush and fill several times before adding coolant.
 

Bulldog

Well-known member

Equipment
M 9000 DTC, L 3000 DT
Mar 30, 2010
5,434
76
48
Rocky Face, Georgia
Bulldog, you run Amsoil coolant?

Believe I will return my Prestone standard and get me some extended life.

Still do a good flush and fill several times before adding coolant.
I have never tried it but I'm sure it's very good. I get mine from my fuel supplier. 6 gallon case of extended life coolant is like $45. Green is like $35 a case.

Either one you use flush it out good with distilled water.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,487
2,191
113
Mid, South, USA
Kubota pre-fills every single tractor with ethylene glycol coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water. They do not specify anything else. Ethylene glycol is the standard green stuff.

Some owners have better ideas and attempt to reinvent the wheel for whatever reason. That's all fine by me. I get to work on stuff for a living. But I'd honestly rather see folks use what's designed to be in it than for me to have to fix the results of the opposite.

Remember, coolant is important, and it lives in a nasty environment. Coolant is electrolyte. The system has different metals in it, and when the coolant wears out, those metals combined with the worn coolant will start to conduct electricity. It has to protect against corrosion. It has to protect the engine from freezing (expanding) water. It has to lubricate the moving parts (water pump), and it has to protect against boiling, it lives under 30psi pressure (15 psi at atmospheric pressure + 15 psi inside the system) at 200 degrees F; and actually is a little hotter as it exits the cylinder head(s).

Coolant and brake fluids are the two most commonly neglected in any type of equipment whether it be car truck tractor motorcycle, etc. And I get the call way too often that X part is failing/failed and want to know why. When was the fluid changed last? Usually hear crickets in the background before the caller gets mad (normally at him or herself). Did ya read the service manual's check list? Of course, that was the part that said owner wiped his butt with that first day when he was enjoying the new tractor and had to stop out in the middle of a field to take a dump. The comment is usually "nobody reads that stuff". :)

Butt seriously. Get the red stuff out and put the cheap green stuff back in. It's just fine, and is what the system was designed for.
 

Creature Meadow

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
2012 L4600, Disk, Brush Hog, GB60 Garden Bedder, GSS72 Grading Scraper
Sep 19, 2016
1,065
140
63
54
Central North Carolina
Lugbolt, thank you for the education!

I plan to remove the red stuff by drain and fill several times, run tractor for few minutes after each fill then repeat process until clear.

Then fill with my green coolant then put on a 2 year cycle to do the same.

Thanks for weighing in.

Jay
 

200mph

Well-known member

Equipment
L4740-3 Cab, FEL, Fnt Snow Blower L2185, LP Finish Mower, LP Rotary Mower
Mar 3, 2017
1,228
61
48
PA
Remember to flush the reservoir while your at it.