Sticky Pedal - what am I missing?!

[grinch1989]

The forward/reverse pedal on my B2100 gets stuck in the direction I last pressed it...basically it doesn't return to "neutral". Now things are a bit rusty under there, so I've added lots of white grease, messed with the neutral return springs a little, but no dice. The pedal acts fine when the machine is not running, so maybe its internal? I also recently changed the fluid, spin on filter and cleaned the screen (which I could tell had never been cleaned before). What am I missing? There's a damper piston down there...maybe that's it? Thanks fellas

 

[grinch1989]

I'm running UDT, not SUDT...per the book

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Remove the dampener piston and see if the issue disappears, yes the control will be jumpy but that's normal with the dampener out.

 

[grinch1989]

Remove the dampener piston and see if the issue disappears, yes the control will be jumpy but that's normal with the dampener out.

Thanks for the reply. I just went through it with a fine tooth comb. The part of the damper that is supposed to connect to the pedal linkage was not connected, I'm not sure why the prior owner would have removed this. I took the damper off and it seems to operate ok. I assume it is NOT supposed to retract or expand on its own, but rather just recreate resistance? Either way I hooked it back up and the problem still exists, but the pedal is much smoother and less jerky. Am I wrong in assuming the pedal should self return to neutral? I basically have to drive it heel/toe now if that makes sense...thanks

 

[grinch1989]

Bump for my questions above before I order a $100(!) damper...thanks guys!

 

[RCW]

Grinch - not familiar with your machine, but it should return to neutral position.

Don't believe that's governed entirely by the damper - but springs as well. You've been digging into your linkage, so you know better than me.

Certainly getting the damper reconnected has helped smooth it out, but may not be the root cause.......

However, if everything else seems free, maybe there is just enough bind in the damper that obviously hasn't operated in the whole time the prior owner had it disconnected...and maybe that's why he unhooked it?

 

[armylifer]

forgive me if this seems too obvious but have you greased the pedal grease zerk? Also, try spraying some wd-40 on all the linkage parts and try operating it when you have lubricated all of the linkage parts. Also check to see if the pedal return springs have the right tensions to return the pedal to neutral.

 

[lugbolt]

The dampener does not have any sort of bias. All it does is slow down the rate which the linkage works. Sometimes they stick, leak, fail. Replace it if that is the case.

Also the HST charge pressure can affect it, especially if the charge pressure is on the low side. Generally speaking, you'll want to eliminate everything else before you start messing around with that.

There's also the neutral detent assembly, which has a ball bearing on it. If the bearing wears out it will not return to neutral properly, and you can chase your tail figuring it out because it's nearly impossible to get to. The center of the tractor is more or less a big steel box and the HST is up inside that box, so the only way to gain access is to split the HST/transmission assembly from the rest of the tractor. Hopefully you won't have to do that. I hate working on these things for that reason, those and the BX's.

 

[grinch1989]

Grinch - not familiar with your machine, but it should return to neutral position.

Don't believe that's governed entirely by the damper - but springs as well. You've been digging into your linkage, so you know better than me.

Certainly getting the damper reconnected has helped smooth it out, but may not be the root cause.......

However, if everything else seems free, maybe there is just enough bind in the damper that obviously hasn't operated in the whole time the prior owner had it disconnected...and maybe that's why he unhooked it?

forgive me if this seems too obvious but have you greased the pedal grease zerk? Also, try spraying some wd-40 on all the linkage parts and try operating it when you have lubricated all of the linkage parts. Also check to see if the pedal return springs have the right tensions to return the pedal to neutral.

The dampener does not have any sort of bias. All it does is slow down the rate which the linkage works. Sometimes they stick, leak, fail. Replace it if that is the case.

Also the HST charge pressure can affect it, especially if the charge pressure is on the low side. Generally speaking, you'll want to eliminate everything else before you start messing around with that.

There's also the neutral detent assembly, which has a ball bearing on it. If the bearing wears out it will not return to neutral properly, and you can chase your tail figuring it out because it's nearly impossible to get to. The center of the tractor is more or less a big steel box and the HST is up inside that box, so the only way to gain access is to split the HST/transmission assembly from the rest of the tractor. Hopefully you won't have to do that. I hate working on these things for that reason, those and the BX's.

Thanks for the replies guys...to answer some of your questions:

-I've greased that zerk and oiled/lubed just about everything under there.
-The damper seems perfectly fine, which is why I wonder why it was disconnected. Maybe it wasn't and just loosened up and fell off.
-I've messed a little with the neutral return springs, maybe I need to crank them to max tension, worth a try.
-I'm afraid that because the pedal doesn't stick when the machine is NOT running, that it is something internal. You mention HST pressures...is that adjustable somewhere??

Thanks again!

 

[lugbolt]

You mention HST pressures...is that adjustable somewhere??

Yes. WSM entails it in depth.

 

[Butch]

Scope out this thread regarding your sticky pedal

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34084

My HSD fwd/rev pedal was sluggish/sticky and would not return 100% to neutral position when released. It ended up being a $20 bearing the diameter size of a quarter and the thickness of three quarters stacked...

See the pics... I have almost 2000 hours on my tractor... pedal works like brand new.... Let me know if this works... Butch

One more thing... normally you'd have to split the tractor to get to it... see my thread... a McGiver fix... no split... just 8 hours of my slow labor and the bearing.

 

[Butch]

Thanks for the reply. I just went through it with a fine tooth comb. The part of the damper that is supposed to connect to the pedal linkage was not connected, I'm not sure why the prior owner would have removed this. I took the damper off and it seems to operate ok. I assume it is NOT supposed to retract or expand on its own, but rather just recreate resistance? Either way I hooked it back up and the problem still exists, but the pedal is much smoother and less jerky. Am I wrong in assuming the pedal should self return to neutral? I basically have to drive it heel/toe now if that makes sense...thanks

Damper has to be stiff pushed in and out... to be good... don't think that is your problem

 

[Butch]

The dampener does not have any sort of bias. All it does is slow down the rate which the linkage works. Sometimes they stick, leak, fail. Replace it if that is the case.

Also the HST charge pressure can affect it, especially if the charge pressure is on the low side. Generally speaking, you'll want to eliminate everything else before you start messing around with that.

There's also the neutral detent assembly, which has a ball bearing on it. If the bearing wears out it will not return to neutral properly, and you can chase your tail figuring it out because it's nearly impossible to get to. The center of the tractor is more or less a big steel box and the HST is up inside that box, so the only way to gain access is to split the HST/transmission assembly from the rest of the tractor. Hopefully you won't have to do that. I hate working on these things for that reason, those and the BX's.

I just replaced that bearing... no tractor split and you'll always be able to get to it again from the outside just behind the forward end of the damper.... I will bet that is why the previous owner had the damper loose...

 

[Butch]

Yes. WSM entails it in depth.

My WSM showed the peep hole where you can see the little bearing inside and towards the rear of the tractor... Based on experience I'd had cut my new access hole to at least 1". and have a Hobby Dremal Tool with a 3/4 dia grinding wheel to cut the inner race (actually split the ring) it will just pop of with a nudge if a screw driver.

I would bet one of my appendages this is your ONLY issue.... had exactly the SAME issue... if you pull up the picture of my tractor torn down... look under the water bottle down and a smidge to the right.... that is where the bearing goes...

 

[Butch]

Bump for my questions above before I order a $100(!) damper...thanks guys!

Don't buy the damper! That ain't the problem...