antifreeze change out

[Orange Beast]

Good evening,

I will be changing my antifreeze this weekend. I went to the dealer to find out what was put in my B2650HDSC from the factory and was told to put anything in.....

Well I'm not quite that stupid!

So in researching this, I see on a few previous posts that green is the way to go and stay away from the red and orange crap.

so my B2650 has green from the factory currently, and I see some people are saying flush before putting new in because of different brands.

1. is all green the same? manual says use long life coolant but none of the green ive seen says that, only the red which states ELC....

manual also says use Ethylene Glycol (EG) which seems to be the green but it also has diethylene Glycol in it also??


2. Since I don't know the brand, do I flush to be on the safe side even going from green to green?

3. the only brand at the store that was a name brand was prestone..... good/bad? Do i need to make a trip to the auto parts store to find a better brand (I know loaded Question)..... But cheaper is not always better!!

Sorry to drag it out, just paranoid thanks for all the help!

 

[rjcorazza]

If using the same coolant type there is no need to flush. That said, there is certainly no penalty in doing a thorough flush. I have always switched out the Kubota standard green to Zerex G05 (HOAT - hybrid organic acid technology) giving me a 5 year interval. That's just my preference, there are plenty of other long life coolants that will work well also.
Standard green EG coolant should be widely available, but I haven't looked for it since the late 90's.

 

[Saxman]

I just changed my L3830 antifreeze again. It's a 2006 and I change it every 3 years or so. I drain it all out. Fill up with fresh water with drain plug out and run water in till clean water comes out. I let it drain completely and refill with 50/50 prestone and distilled water. I flush the overflow tank and top it off after I run it. The stuff I drained out still looked new but I feel better that it's done


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[bxray]

How about Shell rotella elc?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/shell-rotella-elc-antifreeze-1-gal?cm_vc=-10005

Ray

 

[Bulldog]

The ELC is good because it last longer but nothing wrong with green. Just make sure it says compatible with all systems and you should be fine. Last I bought came from my local fuel supplier and was way cheaper than all the parts stores.

 

[Orange Beast]

If using the same coolant type there is no need to flush. That said, there is certainly no penalty in doing a thorough flush. I have always switched out the Kubota standard green to Zerex G05 (HOAT - hybrid organic acid technology) giving me a 5 year interval. That's just my preference, there are plenty of other long life coolants that will work well also.
Standard green EG coolant should be widely available, but I haven't looked for it since the late 90's.

I like the idea of the Zerex G05, so if i decide to switch to the Zerex would I need to flush the green out with water before i refill? Reason I ask is Zerex appears to also be a EG coolant also but with more additives if i am understanding it correctly?

 

[D2Cat]

Bulldog, a couple of months ago I called the fuel supplier and asked about antifreeze in bulk. They had it. I asked if I needed to bring a container, thinking I'd get 5 gallons. She said, "No. it's ready to go in gallon jugs." $7 gallon.

 

[SLIMSHADIE]

Year 2 I installed a block heater after it gelled. Went to the local dealership and bought some extra antifreeze, too. They sold me green Oreilly's antifreeze, ok? Me overthinking as usual, I decided to flush the system since its after the breakin period. I run 2 dehumidifiers and stocked up on some clean water. 2 years later ready to flush the system again. I recently swithed to Zeroex G05 in my Dodge Cummins from a 2 year flush to 5 year flush interval. Decided if was good enough for my truck then it was good enough for the Kubota, also keeping like fluids is easier. Havent been happier....

 

[rjcorazza]

I like the idea of the Zerex G05, so if i decide to switch to the Zerex would I need to flush the green out with water before i refill? Reason I ask is Zerex appears to also be a EG coolant also but with more additives if i am understanding it correctly?

I don't believe it's necessary to flush in terms of incompatibility or cooling system damage, but depending on how much coolant is left in the block without flushing will leave you with something other than ZerexG05 when done. I prefer to flush thoroughly when changing coolant types... It's just good practice.
As far as EG is concerned, the majority of coolants are EG based. PG based coolants are a distant second in base make up for environmental concerns. There are likely other types for specialty applications that I am not familiar with.

It's been a while since I read up on the subject, but if memory serves the Zerex G05 is a low silicate coolant with organic acid technology additives that provides immediate corrosion protection with the silicates, and long term corrosion protection from the oat. There are other long life coolants that have been discussed here on OTT and are recommended. Hopefully some of these folks will chime in.

 

[rjcorazza]

<snip>... I recently swithed to Zeroex G05 in my Dodge Cummins from a 2 year flush to 5 year flush interval. Decided if was good enough for my truck then it was good enough for the Kubota, also keeping like fluids is easier. Havent been happier....

That's exactly how I ended up where I am with coolants. Except with a 97 Ford, then 2011 Ford. The 2011 came with "specialty orange" which is the same as GM DexCool. I do not have a high opinion of DexCool in general, but it was horrible in early GM cars.
Other than 2 Toyotas, my "fleet" is all on one coolant.

 

[badcompany]

I'm about to change mine as well. I landed on the Peak Final Charge which supposedly can last up to 8 years. I'll flush completely, run through with radiator flush treatment, then likely run another round of distilled water. Maybe a little over kill but, labor of love I suppose.
I wouldn't use water from the tap/well; it still contains trace amounts of stuff that you generally don't want in your system.

 

[Orange Beast]

Thanks everyone!!!

just drained the system and Just thought of something else while i am flushing..

I have a cab, so is there anything else special I have to do while flushing?

Do the antifreeze lines go up into the cab for the heat? if they do how do you ever get all out of the system? Seems like I'm over thinking, but if there is still water going to the cab when I am filling after the flush I will be dulting the 50/50 mix because I can't completely drain?? Does that make any sense? Nothing in the manual...

 

[Orange Beast]

Thanks everyone!!!

just drained the system and Just thought of something else while i am flushing..

I have a cab, so is there anything else special I have to do while flushing?

Do the antifreeze lines go up into the cab for the heat? if they do how do you ever get all out of the system? Seems like I'm over thinking, but if there is still water going to the cab when I am filling after the flush I will be dulting the 50/50 mix because I can't completely drain?? Does that make any sense? Nothing in the manual...

When draining, I am only getting about 4 qts out and it takes 5.7 according to the manual, so I must be missing something?

 

[David H]

I change antifreeze more than needed.
I look into the filler and see if the tubes are clear of any debris.
Then I add cleaner and run while cutting large lawn then drain.
Then flush with Hi pressure nozzle while petcocks are open and let drain.
Close petcocks refill with 50/50 that I mix. Run machine for while
Check with bulb tester for proper concentration which never seems to get me to the lowest -34 or the highest boilover point.
I then add concentrated and re-run then re-check.

 

[Bulldog]

You'll never get it all out. if you really want to do more fill it with distilled water and run it with heat on. Drain and repeat until you only have clear water coming out. Then fill with anti-freeze mix.

 

[rjcorazza]

I never considered the cab when I did mine, but by draining at the lower radiator hose I got close to the system capacity drained. In any case, I have always tested the final fill with a refractometer to get the correct concentration. Drain a little, add 100% coolant until it's right.
Refractometers aren't expensive, and much more accurate that the floaty ball devices.

 

[Orange Beast]

I never considered the cab when I did mine, but by draining at the lower radiator hose I got close to the system capacity drained. In any case, I have always tested the final fill with a refractometer to get the correct concentration. Drain a little, add 100% coolant until it's right.
Refractometers aren't expensive, and much more accurate that the floaty ball devices.

I ended up flushing and draining it 7 times and had almost clear water in the end, no green just a tad yellow. Figured that would be sufficient. Got it all filled back up, new block heater installed, no leaks....... and then I noticed that my lower bottom water hose has been chewed up by one of the belts.. JUST GREAT Now it looks like i will have to go get a new hose and start all over again...... Not sure what is up with the belt?? its not touching at this point...
almost three years old I doubt they would warranty that since its past that point...... Thanks again for everyones help!!