Kubota L1500 L175 3PL lift leak

[35Mill]

Hi,

I'm brand new to this Kubota business, have just bought a well used L1500 with front bucket. Going through the basic service bits at the moment, but can't find much info on the following in the Kubota IT shop manual.
There is a oil leak at the bottom rear of the 3PL arm that goes into the housing (see photo's), I can't find an exploded view of what's there. Can anybody help me out as to what this might be?

Also the control valve (speed controller) of the PTO leaks through the knob when the 3pl lift and drops. Is this likely just an 'o' ring? I read somewhere there is a pressure release vent under the seat which may get clogged and build up pressure in the transmission. Does this sound like a possible cause? I can't find that vent either.

Thanks muchly!
Tim

 

[Dave_eng]

There is another Australian frequently on this forum. 100 td.

You need to get some varsol or other solvent and a stiff parts washing brush and clean the area around the lower lift arms. No pressure washer as it often forces water inside past seals.

Once the area is clean, the leak may be much more apparent. It does look like something has been apart as I am seeing Silicone gasket material squeezing out nearby.

This link to tractor data says a L1500 is about the same as a L175

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/0/9/5099-kubota-l1500.html

In North America Messicks.com is the go to place for parts but their system has never heard of either a L1500 or L175.

I am seeing the L1500 presence in Australia.

I know 100 td had Kubota parts sources in Australia so if he dos not join in send him a private i.e. a PM The parts diagrams can be a big help in understanding how parts connect.

Using a fluorescent dye, available on line or at auto parts places can be a big help in leak detection.

This youtube video will help you understand this technology which is not expensive and can find the source of leaks when everything is covered in oil and dirt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3z11DfAZwWs

Dave M7040

 

[35Mill]

Thanks Dave, the parts list is a great idea.
Will give them both a good clean and inspect.
The manuals are a bit vague and cross different models- can be tricky in certain areas. Will hit 100TD up for suppliers, found a couple online but unsure of what they have. Ebay actually seems to be the best so far. Shipping stuff from the states gets expensive.


cheers

 

[100 td]

Looking at your pics, it appears the housing has been cracked and welded, hopefully as Dave mentioned it could be a bad silicone job, but it could be a bad weld/repair job. As Dave said, pressure clean, and maybe paint strip the area for a good look.
Check out parts layout for L175 here
http://www.kubota.com.au/parts-catalogue/
If you buy L175 parts Kubota Australia should be able to get them, but YMMV, other gray market suppliers are Sota tractors or Midway sales, should be able to help out.
Parts illustration shows oring.
http://www.sotatractors.com/warranty-service-and-support/apollo-kubota-spare-parts/

 

[100 td]

And if you don't have a service manual, there's one here
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...uals/&file=L175 L210 L225 L225DT L260 WSM.pdf

 

[billrigsby]

There is a oil leak at the bottom rear of the 3PL arm that goes into the housing (see photo's), I can't find an exploded view of what's there. Can anybody help me out as to what this might be?

Also the control valve (speed controller) of the PTO leaks through the knob when the 3pl lift and drops. Is this likely just an 'o' ring? I read somewhere there is a pressure release vent under the seat which may get clogged and build up pressure in the transmission. Does this sound like a possible cause? I can't find that vent either.

This is the breakout of what is inside the cover....

This is a breakout of the 3 Point Control....

This is the only vent I know of on the transmission, a pin hole in the cap....

Hope this helps

 

[Dave_eng]

Thanks Dave, the parts list is a great idea.
Will give them both a good clean and inspect.
The manuals are a bit vague and cross different models- can be tricky in certain areas. Will hit 100TD up for suppliers, found a couple online but unsure of what they have. Ebay actually seems to be the best so far. Shipping stuff from the states gets expensive.


cheers

Glad to see 100 td is involved. Great resource for you!

It may not be logical, and I don't know my other side of the world geography very well but it would seem you are much closer to Japan than the USA is so shipping must cost less.

Plse keep us posted with your progress.

Dave M7040

 

[100 td]

Just re-read Daves post, he said DON'T pressure clean, I skimmed his post and thought he said pressure clean, I mis-read his post.

Personally I would degrease and pressure clean, as I expect you'll be removing the axle housing to repair or reseal anyway. You may need to buy some dye-check or similar to find the leak, or it may be glaringly obvious. If the housing has been proficiently repaired, it may be that sealant did not go around the housing bolt correctly and it's leaking from there, which to repair "properly" would also mean removing the housing.

If you pull the housing, take it to an engineering workshop and borrow their surface table with some engineers blue and see if its still flat.
Another way is to degrease/pressure clean, then wash with carby & throttle body cleaner/toloul/acetone, what ever you have that leaves no residue, and throw a handful of talcum powder on it and watch where the oil seep comes from.

Until you pull the housing I doubt you will be able to fully establish the extent of the original damage, but looking at the pics it appears that the back face of the housing mating surface is intact, whether the break behind the pin broke out to the edge of the lower housing or not, we'll have to wait and see from your further investigation. Huge stress occurs at this point so if there is any weakness or hairline cracks they will open up under load so use of dyecheck or similar would be paramount if a crack is not obvious.
Good luck!

 

[100 td]

Check Bill's pic against this one, this is L175, not sure if Bill's is L1500? You can check part numbers of Bill's against the L175 at the Kubota link. You can do the same for the axle group after you find out if Bill's manual is L175 or L1500

 

[bmb196122011]

Guys, I'd like to know how you keep the 3pt hitch from what I call popping a wheelie when loosing the tongue weight on my trailer, using my L185dt? Tyvm

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[100 td]

I'm guessing you mean raising?
3pt hitches generally only have pressure to raise, not lower. Use the drawbar for towing.
Ideally start a new thread for a different topic, or search for existing ones to add to.
There will be further info in other threads that address your query I expect.
A long top link down to the hitch or similar will stop this, others here may use this or even a hydraulic top link.

 

[35Mill]

Thanks Everyone for your input.
The tractor is on a weekender property for me, so it can take a little while to get down there sometimes. It didn't look to be the housing to me, more the seal around the joint- but I need to do more inspecting. Same goes for the rest of the tractor!
Just bought a small post hole digger too, so hopefully all will play well. I'll let you know how I get on.


Tim.

 

[billrigsby]

Check Bill's pic against this one, this is L175, not sure if Bill's is L1500? You can check part numbers of Bill's against the L175 at the Kubota link. You can do the same for the axle group after you find out if Bill's manual is L175 or L1500

My pics are from the L1500 Manual, generally L175 parts interchange.

 

[bmb196122011]

Anybody please? Is there a kit that you can buy to keep the 3pt from going up while hooked to a trailer? Tyvm, Brian

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[Dave_eng]

Anybody please? Is there a kit that you can buy to keep the 3pt from going up while hooked to a trailer? Tyvm, Brian

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Yo should not have a trailer connected to a 3 pt hitch for that reason.
For example and this is likely why you have posted: You have a garden tractor on the trailer and there is tongue weight which keeps the trailer level, then you start to back the garden tractor off the trailer, now the trailer balance shifts to the rear and up goes the 3 pt.

The draw bar is where the trailer needs to be connected.

The height above ground level is a very important fact when pulling with a tractor.

Attach a chain above the height of the middle of the rear axle and start pulling a heavy log. The tractor will flip over backwards so fast you will be lucky if you are still alive when everything stops moving.

The draw bar is deliberately designed to impose a pulling force well below the rear axle height.

In this video of a tractor tug-of-war contest on youtube, note the height of the chain ends connection height above ground on both tractors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAnh6tpDTK0

The operators are deliberately connecting high above the rear axle to force a weight transfer to the rear wheels as the tractors are 2 WD and the more weight on the rear wheels the more pulling power you will have. These operators knew what could happen, I would like you to see how quickly it can happen.

Dave M7040

 

[bmb196122011]

Yo should not have a trailer connected to a 3 pt hitch for that reason.
For example and this is likely why you have posted: You have a garden tractor on the trailer and there is tongue weight which keeps the trailer level, then you start to back the garden tractor off the trailer, now the trailer balance shifts to the rear and up goes the 3 pt.

The draw bar is where the trailer needs to be connected.

The height above ground level is a very important fact when pulling with a tractor.

Attach a chain above the height of the middle of the rear axle and start pulling a heavy log. The tractor will flip over backwards so fast you will be lucky if you are still alive when everything stops moving.

The draw bar is deliberately designed to impose a pulling force well below the rear axle height.

In this video of a tractor tug-of-war contest on youtube, note the height of the chain ends connection height above ground on both tractors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAnh6tpDTK0

The operators are deliberately connecting high above the rear axle to force a weight transfer to the rear wheels as the tractors are 2 WD and the more weight on the rear wheels the more pulling power you will have. These operators knew what could happen, I would like you to see how quickly it can happen.

Dave M7040

Good info Dave. Ty for sharing. Yes I'm use to quad and garden tractor pulling a trailer. 3pt is all new to me. I know the neighbors newer Kubota have side bars that keep the 3pt from climbing. Anyway tyvm, Brian

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[Russell King]

There are chains you can install between the (stationary) drawbar and a drawbar that is on the 3 point hitch.

If you have a neighbor who can keep the 3 point hitch from raising please let them explain their system to you. Then please share with this forum. There are not many tractors that hold the 3 point down


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[D2Cat]

I've got a Case tractor, Comfort King, 1965. A tractor ahead of it's time.

It has what Case called a Quadrant lever which has a two position stop. I'll explain it just as it's in the owner's manual.

Called draft-o-matic control. 1. lower the implement to the ground and start the tractor in forward motion. The weight of the implement and the suction designed into the soil engaging parts will cause the implement to enter the ground.

2. The depth the tool attains or the distance the tool lowers must be controlled by the quadrant lever.

3. Once the quadrant lever is positioned for the correct depth, adjust the two position lowering stop on the quadrant so the lever is against the 1st stop position. The depth of the implement or tool will now automatically be controlled by the draft load on the implement. Note, if a soil condition exists where a slightly lower depth is desired - move the lever down against the 2nd stop position on the two positions stop. The depth of the implement will now be automatically controlled by the draft load on the implement at a slightly greater dept than at the 1st stop.

So the position control lever can be set for a maximum upward and maximum downward position. Leaving the operator to set the two stops right next to each other and hold the three point in any position.

L4240 has a very similar setup, a position control lever and a draft control lever.

 

[Dave_eng]

D2CAT

Draft control and position control, in my limited experience, have been on real farmers' tractors since the 1960's. I am going through the WSM of a MF135 right now and it does.

I am not a farmer so my understanding may be wrong but, as I study the MF WSM, it seems, regardless of the hydraulic system selected on the MF tractor, gravity is providing the downward motion albeit with the hydraulic fluid leaving the lift cylinder being restricted in how fast the oil leaves and the implement descends.

Since the interaction between an implement (such as a plow) on a 3 pt hitch and the ground is always to drive the implement deeper and deeper, and gravity increases that tendency, I though the action of the hydraulics was to raise and that lowering was just an absence of raising and no double acting cylinder is involved.

Am I not understanding your point or the system?

Dave

 

[bmb196122011]

There are chains you can install between the (stationary) drawbar and a drawbar that is on the 3 point hitch.

If you have a neighbor who can keep the 3 point hitch from raising please let them explain their system to you. Then please share with this forum. There are not many tractors that hold the 3 point down


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The neighbors side bars on the 3pt are integrated in the side lower link arms and lock in letting the 3pt climb about 6" vs all the way up. I studied it and it's no help for mine.
Now Russell, you've got my wheels turning on this chain idea. I'm not clear on the stationary drawbar. My drawbar connects to the lower link arms and still will climb all the way up. I'd like to have a clearer picture on chaining them down. Tyvm Russell, please keep feeding my mind

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