Strange noise from transmission or brakes

[mllkn6]

I got a L245 DT, after pushing stuff upon a pile with the front end loader, I stopped the tractor using the brakes as I allowed it to roll back down off the pile and started to pull off a strange noise started coming from either the transmission or the brakes. It's like something is raddling or when you try to move with the brakes on, it will move forward and reverse but it's like the brakes are on and if you try to start off in anything but 1 or 2 it chokes down. I checked all fluid levels which were OK, all hydraulics work on front end loader and 3 point hitch, and no leaks anywhere.
It's hard to tell where the noise is coming from as it stops when it not in gear or moving, but I noticed it's hard to get it into gear or it seems that way. I bought the tractor back in 76 or 77 new, it's been great so far, just hope that this isn't as bad as I think with something broken in the transmission. I was using the differential pedal when pushing stuff upon our burn pile and it wasn't a heavy load either, just some limbs and stuff, about 4 feet high. I also looked under the tractor to see if anything might have gotten lodged under it some way but seen nothing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

 

[100 td]

Check to make sure your parking brake lever isn't accidentally engaged, broken spring etc.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Sounds like the brakes are locked up.
Check movement of each pedal individually.
If one is very low or soft then very hard there is your culprit.

 

[mllkn6]

Thanks Guys for the needed info, haven't had a chance to check it out yet as I got hit with a Lupus attack and just beginning to recover, hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to look at your suggestions.
Thanks again, if I find out what it is I repost.

 

[mllkn6]

North Idaho Wolfman, you might be on to something, I mustered enough energy to go check the brake pedals out, the right brake goes down about an inch but the left only goes down a 1/4". It sounds like when I mash it that it's something is clicking down next to the brake at the tire. Any idea what could be broken inside the brake to make it hang up like this? I appreciate your help. thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There is a ball assembly that engages your brakes, could be an issue with that.
I think your in for a tear down to fix it.

 

[mllkn6]

There is a ball assembly that engages your brakes, could be an issue with that.
I think your in for a tear down to fix it.

Thank you Wolfman, My 245DT is an ole 1976 model (I bought it new) so everything I have to have must come from Japan (if available). I'm no mechanic, but growing up on a farm, it was all fix it yourself if you could, I have my old Operators Manual that has a diagram of everything broken down with Code No. or Part No. now.
In the diagram it shows a SEAT Ball and a BALL that is in the BRAKE GROUP, I assume that is what you are referring to when you say ball assembly, am I right?
Once I remove the rear wheel can I pull the AXLE CASE GROUP in one piece to get to the BRAKE GROUP or do I have to remove everything piece by piece? Now that I have had more time to look over the diagram and the tractor, I'm not sure I have to remove the rear wheel, by hooking my chain fall around the AXLE CASE GROUP I could support it and move the whole unit as one. Then that will allow me access to the BRAKE GROUP which is against the rear housing case. Please correct me if I am wrong as I'm sure you know more about it than I do.
My tractor is still sitting in my backyard, do you think it would hurt to drive it 100 yards to my shop, once there I can begin the disassembly and repairs?
One more question, is there any fluid I need to drain off before I remove the BRAKE GROUP, I would hate to find out it's full of fluid just as I start to open it up and it all run out on the floor, wore that T-Shirt before and don't care to put it on again, if you know what I mean.
I appreciate your help and hope you don't mind me asking so many question, but I try to get as much information as possible before I start a project, at 67 years old I've learned my lesson on do it yourself without it. Also at todays mechanic prices I have to fix it myself or do without it and that is out of the question.
One problem that bugs me is finding parts for the repairs because of the tractors age and having to order them from Japan, if it not possible to find what I need I think I can disconnect the brake to that left wheel, not what I would like to do but what I might have to do. The tractor is never on the road and now I never go faster than 4th gear (2.6 MPH), I know it would pull to the right when I apply the brakes, but I can handle that too. I do use the brakes to steer with at time (like a crawler) when I'm using the front bucket to push or pull to one side if needed and then I wouldn't be able to do that. Any ideas on that possibility if it's at all possible, I'm just not sure what to do to release pressure on the brakes. I have run into problems getting somethings before, but was lucky enough to find them on line.
Thanks again Wolfman.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
The first thing to check is to be sure the brake levers are not froze up . These are the arms on the outside of the brake housing. They sometimes get rust on them and get tight in the housing.This is a very common problem with the L245DT. You can spray PB plaster on the lever so it runs down the back, and work the brake pedals to try and free them up.This can sometimes take a few days of spraying working it let it sit spray some more. Also be sure your pedals under the tractor are greased well. The brakes on these tractors are generally trouble free other then this problem. I have seen these with 4 or 5 thousand hours on them and not wear out the brakes.Have you checked you hydraulic filter screen to see if you have any thing on it. Also be sure to use good quality tractor hydraulic fluid with the wet brakes.
Good Luck Lance

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

In the diagram it shows a SEAT Ball and a BALL that is in the BRAKE GROUP, I assume that is what you are referring to when you say ball assembly, am I right?

Yes that is what I'm talking about.
I would do as 007kubotaguy said and triple check the linkage and all places that move as it wouldn't be the first time that rust has caused brakes to not operate as they should.

Once I remove the rear wheel can I pull the AXLE CASE GROUP in one piece to get to the BRAKE GROUP or do I have to remove everything piece by piece?

Yes, you can pull the whole assembly off at once.

Now that I have had more time to look over the diagram and the tractor, I'm not sure I have to remove the rear wheel, by hooking my chain fall around the AXLE CASE GROUP I could support it and move the whole unit as one.

That sounds great, but it gets real heavy and awkward!
block the center rear of the tractor and block between the front axle and the frame (keeps the front axle from rotating side to side), remove the wheel, then the axle group.

My tractor is still sitting in my backyard, do you think it would hurt to drive it 100 yards to my shop, once there I can begin the disassembly and repairs?
One more question, is there any fluid I need to drain off before I remove the BRAKE GROUP.

Yes you can move it, one you get it in the shop jack up the side that is binding and make sure it's the brake binding and not something else like a gear or bearing.
And yes you will need to drain the hydro fluid out of it or your going to get an oil bath!

One problem that bugs me is finding parts for the repairs because of the tractors age and having to order them from Japan.

Parts are available in the US,
https://www.colemanequip.com/parts/kubota-parts/kubota-tractor-parts/
This is a great place to get parts, shipped right to you quickly.
If a part isn't available new there is also sources for used parts.

 

[mllkn6]

Wolfman, you are the MAN, I appreciate all the help you have given me.
You are right on picking up the whole section, even though I can pick up to 5 tons it might be awkward to balance especially doing it by myself, so I'll remove the wheel then the Case would be easier in the long run.
Thanks for the advice on scotching the wheels I had not thought about doing that and it does make sense too.
My Dynamo stopped working a few weeks back, so I've had to jump it off when I needed it. I was trying to get finished cleaning up from the Tornados and Hurricane crap when this happened before I took it off to let my step son rebuild it, his dad owns a rebuild shop so he can do it there and it will not cost me anything. Guess I got the time now.
I'll remember to make sure to check the wheel when I jack it up before starting to take it apart too.
I'm no mechanic by any means, but I have managed to get by over the years doing as much of what I can as possible, rebuilt a few motors, changed out tranny's and rear ends, done brake jobs and kept all the vehicles up along the way. Don't farm as much as I used to but still have a few cow, horses and chickens to piddle with. I also got my grandfathers 1951 John Deere "B" that I still use for the heavy stuff of planting, plowing and fertilizer spreading.
I'll let you know how it goes along the way, I'm sure I will need more advice before it's done so I hope you don't mind. Again I appreciate you taking the time to help me and advice me, it means a lot.
thank you.

 

[D2Cat]

Before you start dis-assembling the tractor, I'd suggest go back to post #8 by 007.....do what he suggested and take your time...2 or 3 days to give it a chance to work. Sure beats getting into the whole thing, unless you absolutely have to.

 

[mllkn6]

OK, Guys, time for an update.
Got my tractor back into my shop, jacked the rear end up so I could check if the brakes were locked, well, they both spun like new money, one in way I turned it and the other one the opposite way. Looks like it isn't the brakes after all.
One thing I noticed is, it runs great in reverse with out almost any noise, (like a slight raddle though), also in 3rd and 4th gear it is almost noiseless, except for a slight raddle that seems to be coming from the tranny, I think, hard to determine as it's loud, the faster you go the louder it is also.
But once you put it into 1st or 2nd, all hell breaks loose as far as noise, like the whole thing is about to blow up, worse in first than second too.
I'm about to drain the tranny fluid to check for metal, parts of gears, or anything that may give me an idea of what is wrong. I noticed that it is hard to get into any gear except first, I have to wait till everything stops turning before I can engage them and then might have to bump the clutch to get them to line up right (the teeth that is).
I'm looking through the manual, I see GEAR DRIVE SYSTEM GROUP 1, 2 and 3, think mine is 3 with the PTO system on it, but not sure.
Again any help would be appreciated, some how I am getting the feeling I'm going to have to break my baby in half. I'm not looking forward to that either, but what ever it takes I guess.
Any and all ideas are greatly appreciated. Sorry it has taken so long to get back, but my wife has been in the hospital, but she is home now, she has lung cancer and it looks like another operation will be next.
Again thanks for the help.

 

[mllkn6]

Before you start dis-assembling the tractor, I'd suggest go back to post #8 by 007.....do what he suggested and take your time...2 or 3 days to give it a chance to work. Sure beats getting into the whole thing, unless you absolutely have to.

Thanks, I did that once I got it into my shop but it didn't have any effect on it. Think it's something in the tranny now, see my other post on it, goes into detail. really appreciate the help too.

 

[skeets]

My friend I feel your pain with your wife, prayers for you both

 

[mllkn6]

My friend I feel your pain with your wife, prayers for you both

Thank you, Skeets, you don't know how much that means to us. That is the best medicine we could ask for, the Lord is always in charge in every situation and his will is perfect.

 

[mllkn6]

Ok guys, this is my latest update on my 245DT tractor issues,
1. drained the fluid from transmission, all 4 places too.
2. Found very little metal shavings after I ran a magnet through it, no more than I would think that would be normal anyway.
3 After draining the final place which was the one under the bottom of the tractor under the seat, this little gadget was in the oil from that section. It round 1-1/4" overall dimension with a 3/4" hole in the center, it had a rubber seal around the center also. Any ideas what it came off of and where it goes, I guess it related to my problems, but still puzzles me with so little metal shavings, thought there would be more.
Help Guys, I'm at a lose to figure where it goes, going to remove the speed change cover under the gear shift lever and POT lever, trying to leave as much in tack as possible. Hope fully I will be able to see better down inside the transmission that way.



Thanks, I appreciate the help.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello
Looks like sealing washer off the drain plug. That will not fit through the drain hole will it?
Lance

 

[100 td]

Looks like an oil seal, meaning a shaft seal, are you sure it wasn't in the drum you used to drain the oil into? Otherwise have a look underneath at every shaft and work out where it has come from, does your tractor have a mid pto with a shaft that size?

 

[Russell King]

I think there may be a way to determine if it is a seal or a sealing washer. I think if it is a sealing washer it will look very similar on both sides. It looks like the side shown has a protrusion at the inner diameter. What does the other side look like?
Search for “dowty washer” and see if that is what you have. That is another name for the sealing washers


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[100 td]

Search for “dowty washer” and see if that is what you have.

I think you're on the money Russell, I should have clarified my thoughts, as I was meaning a dust seal, which sits in front of an oil seal, but still think you're likely spot on.