Have a gear drive b1550. Seems like after I added a loader it is really hard to get out of 4wd, lots of pressure on leaver even if I put the tractor in neutral. It was summer when I put the loader on so I don't know if this was happening before I put the loader on or not. Was at the dealer and they don't have any answers. They told me to run it in 4wd then lift the front with the bucket and see if it is still hard to take out of 4wd, haven't done this yet. I haven't check fluid levels in the front end yet but have never seen any leaks etc. Just seems like the gears don't mesh quite right. Has anyone else had this kind of problem? Thanks
b1550 4wd problems
- Thread starter kubota1550
- Start date
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Gosh - - my first thought has nothing to due to the loader, but tires....
Oh, I'd check the front axle lube NOW!!!! If it's dry as a bone, you may have found your problem!
You say you really don't know if it was an issue before.......
Your B1550 was made 1988-1997 according to Tractordata.com
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/5/1259-kubota-b1550.html
Have tires/wheels, etc, changed over those 20-29 years? Do the TYPES of tires match front/rear? Ag (R1), industrial (R4), or turf (R3)? Somebody stick 16" truck tires on the back?
The rolling circumference ratio of fronts versus rears is very important with a 4WD. If they are out of synch with the tractor's gearing, there can be a bind in the front drive system. For example, a too large front wheel/tire might go too fast compared to the rears and make the front "pull" the rear drive, or conversely one too small might make the rears "push" the fronts. Won't be a problem at all in 2WD.
Same thing will happen if rears are too tall or too short. Type of tire doesn't matter, as long as circumferences work for your tractor.
The key is the ratio between the fronts and rears, whatever kind or type they are.
I'm not a expert - try searching "rolling circumference" on this site. It comes up often on tire type changes.
I'd start there.....and good luck!
Oh, I'd check the front axle lube NOW!!!! If it's dry as a bone, you may have found your problem!
You say you really don't know if it was an issue before.......
Your B1550 was made 1988-1997 according to Tractordata.com
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/5/1259-kubota-b1550.html
Have tires/wheels, etc, changed over those 20-29 years? Do the TYPES of tires match front/rear? Ag (R1), industrial (R4), or turf (R3)? Somebody stick 16" truck tires on the back?
The rolling circumference ratio of fronts versus rears is very important with a 4WD. If they are out of synch with the tractor's gearing, there can be a bind in the front drive system. For example, a too large front wheel/tire might go too fast compared to the rears and make the front "pull" the rear drive, or conversely one too small might make the rears "push" the fronts. Won't be a problem at all in 2WD.
Same thing will happen if rears are too tall or too short. Type of tire doesn't matter, as long as circumferences work for your tractor.
The key is the ratio between the fronts and rears, whatever kind or type they are.
I'm not a expert - try searching "rolling circumference" on this site. It comes up often on tire type changes.
I'd start there.....and good luck!
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Same tires since I got the tractor. I will check the front drive fluids soon as it stops raining. Had 4 inches here in the last 5 days.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
So, you don't know if the wheels/tires match, and don't know if 4WD binding was a problem before the loader.
Check the front axle (after is stops raining - that's a lot), and post a couple pictures of the tractor.
We have several guys here that are savvy on tires/circumference ratios. A simple picture might jump out a tire problem.
There are several possible problems, but you always want to start with the simple stuff!!
After getting the loader on, you want 4WD to work correctly!
There's a whole bunch of guys here that can get you through this!!
Best wishes!
Last edited:
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
PS -
I did find an Owners Manual here:
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...s/&AutoIndex=491356eaf8125972a0fef9e4feb23f6a
A Workshop Manual (WSM) would be more handy:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20111
I did find an Owners Manual here:
http://www.kubotabooks.com/AutoInde...s/&AutoIndex=491356eaf8125972a0fef9e4feb23f6a
A Workshop Manual (WSM) would be more handy:
http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20111
I am with RCW on this as far as a diagnosis and a way forward..
Measure the circumference in the middle of the tread on both the front and rear tires.
The front will be easy. Just elevate the front wheels off the ground, use a piece of rope because it is flexible, and wrap in around the center of the front tire. Then measure how long a piece of rope would just make a complete wrap.
The rear is a bit more difficult as you cannot easily elevate it. Use the rope again but this time secure it to the tire tread with duct tape or hot melt glue.
Drive the tractor forward or backward with someone keeping the rope in the center of the tire and mark the rope when it meets the beginning. Measure the length of the rope.
Post those numbers here.
Take pictures of the tire side wall info for front and back tires and post here.
An overall picture of your tractor will help.
With the loader, you have added a lot of weight unto the front tires and this will magnify any incompatibility between the front and rear axles.
Dave M7040
Measure the circumference in the middle of the tread on both the front and rear tires.
The front will be easy. Just elevate the front wheels off the ground, use a piece of rope because it is flexible, and wrap in around the center of the front tire. Then measure how long a piece of rope would just make a complete wrap.
The rear is a bit more difficult as you cannot easily elevate it. Use the rope again but this time secure it to the tire tread with duct tape or hot melt glue.
Drive the tractor forward or backward with someone keeping the rope in the center of the tire and mark the rope when it meets the beginning. Measure the length of the rope.
Post those numbers here.
Take pictures of the tire side wall info for front and back tires and post here.
An overall picture of your tractor will help.
With the loader, you have added a lot of weight unto the front tires and this will magnify any incompatibility between the front and rear axles.
Dave M7040
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Checked trans oil was just at the bottom of the dip stick. Added oil and much better. If you stop and reverse it comes out easily and sometimes does even if you don't. If you lift the front wheels in the air it comes out easily. These are the same tires that have been on the tractor for the last 10yrs. It wasn't a problem before the loader was added to the tractor. My guess a bit low on oil and the extra weight of the loader combined is the problem. I'm happy with the way it works now. I will check the size of the tires and make sure they are what is recommended both front and back for the tractor. Thanks for everyone's help.