BX or B?

[Dave T.]

Hi. I'm looking for advice on my first tractor purchase. My wife and I are building on 2 acres of pasture with a very gentle roll. We'll have a 700' crush-n-run drive, a short portion of which has a modest slope of about 3% (2-1/2' rise over about 75'). We have settled on a zero turn mower for mowing. We'll have 850' of trees along the property line to maintain.

Here are my major projected uses:
- Move and spread #3 and #57 to maintain the driveway during construction, finish it off after construction, and then maintain the drive.
- Remove 6" of wet snowfall from the drive once or twice a year (central Virginia).
- Move bucket loads of dirt.
- Grapple sections of 18" diameter downed trees on rare occasions.
- Dig post holes.
- Be able to add a capable backhoe (capable of minor excavating like trench digs).
- Be able to add a bush hog to mow an adjoining 15 acres if the need arises.

I'm leaning toward a new BX2680 or B2601. I think the BX will do what I need if I am somewhat careful with it, and it may be a safer center of gravity wise than the B. However, the B26 platform added capabilities (lift, tire grip, weight) give me the impression that I won't be wanting for more.

Could you tell me what you think?

Thanks,
Dave T.

 

[eddiebob]

I chose the BX2680 over the B because of the lower center of gravity. Primary use is mowing 5 acres of hilly ground. Saturday we moved a ton of clay with the tractor for a little pond dam repair. The BX is quite capable for all of my chores. I am unable to make a comment about snow.

 

[TripleR]

I own two BXs and a JD 1025R, BUT I have bigger tractors, if I didn't my choice would be a B2601 or B2650 with wheel spacers and wheel weights/fluid in my tires or both.

Yes a BX will do what you ask of it, but the B will do it so much better with the added ground clearance and no exposed HST fan.

 

[jmf78]

If you want to "add" a backhoe in the future, you'll be stuck with the BX25D/BX23S out of the gate as you can't simply add a backhoe to the BX line. The platform has dedicated units for backhoes.

I have the BX23S and it does everything I need on my 3.5 acres but I don't have much for woods to worry about or maintain. Just a few tree lines. It is a workhorse though.

-130' x 4' trench through hard clay for drainage this summer
- moved tons of clay and gravel
- plenty of utility work.

The BX will do what you need. The B will do it faster with less concern of ground clearance.

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[skeets]

Im running a BX 2360 and sometimes I would like to have something a bit larger,, my little BX has always come through with flying colors

 

[JackJ]

I agree that the BX23S (the backhoe compatible BX) will meet your needs. Given only two acres, if it were me, I would skip the zero turn and get the mid mount mower for the BX-- save a bunch of cash, a bunch of space, and a fair amount of maintenance. No doubt a zero turn will mow faster, but with a 60" deck, the BX is no slouch and can deliver a very nice cut.

Jack

 

[1970cs]

If you are going to dig post holes, I would shy away from the BX. Three point just don't raise high enough to accommodate a 3' long auger and gearbox.

Pat

 

[whiskeymike]

I had a BX1860 for a short time, and I've had my B2320 for a few years now. If you were sticking to 2 acres, I'd say BX. But if you're looking you expand I would go with the B, especially if you're using a ZT around trees. The BX was a much more maneuverable machine for mowing with my 4 ft brush hog, but that is the only thing it did better.

Even before my tires were filled on the B, it was more stable than the BX. I would have thought the BX would be more stable, but driving on the same hills, or lifting with the loader on uneven ground the BX would repeatedly lift a rear wheel, where the B wouldn't. With the rear tires filled now, the B is very stable for such a narrow tractor.

 

[Dave T.]

Please keep the data flowing, this is great info.

Can anybody weigh in on BX vs. B for pulling box & grading scrapers?

Also, does either model have a leg up in snow removal? And if snow removal is not often, can I get away with the loader, or is a front or rear blade needed?

 

[jmf78]

The B models will be better for grading work due to the 3pt lever. The BX model only has quarter inching, meaning you control the 3pt hitch height visually. The B series has set heights.

Good info for you here: https://youtu.be/xhnhaS9Krdc

As far as snow removal, I plow about 450 of driveway with my BX and a front mount blade with no issues. You can get away with a loader but it will be more tedious as you will scoop, lift, move and dump vs. just pushing the snow. My $.02 on that.

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[whiskeymike]

Never moved snow with the bx. For your driveway you'll want a box blade or at least a rear blade anyway, and they work better for snow removal on gravel for me.

The 1/4" valve is horrible. Both my BX & my B2320 have them and even after getting used to them position control is still easier to be precise. Some people seem to like them, but since Kubota seems to be moving towards position control more, I would imagine I'm not the only one that feels this way.

 

[pauly]

For what it's worth, I have the B2650, rear blade, box scraper, loader with a Phirana tooth blade, front mount blower and the rough cut. Maintain a quarter mile gravel drive with a good pitch, box screper. Snow removal with the blower and rear blade. Trail clearing with the rough cut. General messing around, dirt moving and other fun stuff on 6 acres. I like the size and power the B2650 has.
Get the extra hp if you can.

 

[bearskinner]

I can do everything you want to do on your list, with my BX25D. The adjustable snow blade moves enough to curl snow over the top, and 6" on a road would be an easy drive down the road. I regularly move a foot deep with no problem as long as you don't let it melt and get crusty. It's true the PHD only goes 28" deep ( I plant my FEL blade straight down, you get a couple extra inches depth) but with the backhoe, I can dig really deep. I find I use the Grapple and backhoe WAY more than I ever thought I would. People look at a BX and think "what a cute toy" they are awesome tools.

 

[dalola]

I would agree that both the B & BX could handle your list of chores, but based on that list, I believe a B would be my choice. The BX really shines in areas where tight maneuvering is necessary, and will inflict less damage to turf if you're finish mowing, but I don't see either of those scenarios in your list. So, for that reason, I would go with the larger, more capable B.

 

[Ezlife45]

I'm going to steal a comment from another thread.

You never hear someone say they wish they bought a smaller tractor.
I have a B2650 and its a beast. I added the 3rd function valve and a grapple.
Look closely at the front loader capacities, 3 point lift capability etc.

Also a big one for me is weight. If you are doing loader work weight is your friend. I don't have loaded tires but I always like having extra weight anytime I'm using the loader. I probably moved 50 yards of red clay and spread with my box blade.

 

[maclean]

I love my BX25D. I love my lower payments. I agree if I could afford it I'd like a bigger tractor. But the BX25D fits in places bigger tractors won't. That being said... whatever model you do get go SSQA for the loader. BX25D get wheel spacers and a skid plate to protect the HST fan.

 

[chim]

A rear blade will remove a lot of snow. That kept our 300' driveway and several nearby neighbors' driveways cleared for 10 years till the first Kubota with a loader came along. In combination with the FEL, either tractor will work well. As some others stated, it's nice to have more HP and weight. I had a B7500 for 10 years. It had about 5 HP less than the B2601. There were times that it was a little light for the work. The FEL wasn't always robust enough for the tasks. Most of the time it was adequate. If it had the specs of the B2601, maybe I wouldn't have replaced it.

5 years ago I bought my L3200. I'm much happier with the size and weight of it. We only have 3-1/2 acres, but if I were to inherit a large sum of money I'd be looking for a 40 HP tractor with factory cab and A/C

 

[precisionbike]

A rear blade will remove a lot of snow. That kept our 300' driveway and several nearby neighbors' driveways cleared for 10 years till the first Kubota with a loader came along. In combination with the FEL, either tractor will work well. As some others stated, it's nice to have more HP and weight. I had a B7500 for 10 years. It had about 5 HP less than the B2601. There were times that it was a little light for the work. The FEL wasn't always robust enough for the tasks. Most of the time it was adequate. If it had the specs of the B2601, maybe I wouldn't have replaced it.



5 years ago I bought my L3200. I'm much happier with the size and weight of it. We only have 3-1/2 acres, but if I were to inherit a large sum of money I'd be looking for a 40 HP tractor with factory cab and A/C

I have a 1.2 acer suburban lot, the B7100 was a bear to use at times. I did ungraded to the B2601 and love it! I used it to dig a pond.
I chose not to buy the BX series based on these.
1. Smaller light weight chassis.
2. Unable to handle a heavy load
3. Used model is readily available. When I asked why, it was because they bought the wrong tractor and needed more tractor.
4. In our area, northwest Pennsylvania the Grape farmers love the B series tractor. They are very hard to find used at a good price. Unlike the BX series.

The bottom line is, over buy what you think you need. Don’t spend the money twice.


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[Missouribound]

Both will do the job albeit the B will be a little faster, handle bigger implements and ride a little smoother.
But you need to go to a dealer and plant your but in the seats of the tractors you want to buy. The one that feels right is your best bet.....you will have it a long time.