Baffled newb - need help - D1105 runs up to full throttle and wont idle down

Flatiron71

New member

Equipment
F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
0
1
Nampa, ID
Hi guys,
This is my first time posting on the site. This may get a little long but I want to give you all the details up front.

Kubota F2680E mower
Year: 2010
Hours: 1993
Engine: D1105-ET03
Deck: 72"
2 wheel drive

I bought this machine a few weeks ago off of a local guy - had it listed on craigslist. He used it for his lawn care business. He said it would run but only at full throttle. He was told it simply needed a governor spring but he was afraid to tear into it and was not willing to spend any more $$ on it. He was asking $1200 - I offered $1000 because it is pretty clean and straight and the engine does start right up - runs smooth - just full throttle. He took my offer.
So here's the story on how it got to this point and what I've done so far. Last year he parked the machine at the end of the season with it running fine. This spring when he tried to start it up, it would not start. He talked to Kubota mechanic who said it was probably a stuck valve in the injection pump so he took the mower to some cheap, local outfit that supposedly rebuilt the pump. He said Kubota wanted more than he was willing to pay for the rebuild. After putting everything back together the engine starts and runs up to full throttle right away. A lot of back and forth between the guy and the local shop and other mechanics and they cannot figure out whats wrong with it and he does not push them to make it right and basically gives up on the thing. He was told by local Kubota mechanic that it sounds like the other shop forgot to connect or lost a governor spring. He said he was done with it.
I buy the machine and proceed to dig into it. My first time working on diesel engine but I grew up working with my dad working in an auto repair shop and repaired F-15s in the Air Force so I figured this would be a good place to take a gamble and jump into the deep end. I downloaded a service manual for the engine and have been comparing what I've found in it to what's on the machine in front of me. I pulled the throttle plate off and looked at the governor linkage - all springs are present and connected correctly. All levers move back and forth freely. The rack pin moves back and forth freely. The stop solenoid moves freely and I was told by the guy I bought this from that it was new. I can start the machine - it goes to full throttle regardless of the throttle position - I can shut down the engine with either the key or the stop lever so I don***8217;t believe I'm sucking oil from the case.
I go and talk to the Kubota mechanic at the local dealership and we go through the service manual together and verify that all the springs are in place so he says it sounds like the injection pump was not calibrated properly by the other shop when they put it back together. I remove the injection pump and take it to a reputable shop here in town and they rebuild it for me. They put new plungers in it, calibrate it and say they found nothing wrong with it but still take $316 - ouch. I put the rebuilt injection pump back in the engine with all the shims back in place, spring connected, etc and fire it up. Same problem - it starts right up and immediately goes to full throttle. I can modulate the rpms by moving the stop lever and essentially pushing the rack pin the opposite direction which leads me to believe the injection pump is working properly.
This is as far as I've gone with it. My thoughts are possibly frozen flyweights on the governor shaft from sitting all winter and the thing has not been run more than probably several minutes since last year. I found there is a port opening on the side of the engine case where the governor shaft is located. I removed the plug from that port and started up the engine and oil started to spurt out of it (small amount - not pressurized) so I can see that part of the shaft gets somewhat of an oil bath so I'm wondering if just letting the thing run for a while at full throttle would allow oil to work into the flyweight mechanism and work it loose if they are froze up. In order to remove the governor shaft I would have to pull the engine and remove the front cover. I don***8217;t really want to do that if I don***8217;t have to so I'm reaching out to you all looking for ideas, solutions, etc.
Sorry for such a long post but I think its necessary on this one. Thanks in advance for any feedback!!
PS - I dont have a service manual for the mower but plan on getting one asap.
 
Last edited:

Dave_eng

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M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
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Because messing with the injection pump has the potential to damage your engine, I am suggesting you take the pump back to the independent diesel injector and pump place. Perhaps disconnect the throttle linkage at the injection pump and start the engine. If it does not go to full speed your problem may be in the linkage.

This is not the part of your tractor where it is a good place to learn about a diesel. Think of this work as tearing apart a 4 barrel carb plus a distributor advance mechanism. Unless you have very specific knowledge the likelihood of the engine ever running well again is slight.

I would be surprised if your injection pump was unique to Kubota and the shop may recognize it as being made by a supplier company and used by many tractor manufacturers.

You could go to Messicks.com and try and find the injection pump parts for your tractor. Sometimes their illustrations are not much help unless you know what you are looking for.

Go to Kubotabooks.com and try and find a WSM for a tractor with the same engine as you have.

Dave M7040
 
Last edited:

100 td

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Aug 29, 2015
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There is a manual here for a similar engine to yours, meaning same engine but setup for generator use, so governor may be slightly different, but you'll probably get the info you need to ensure the pump rack is connected with the governor as well as governor spring layout. Page M-2 & 3 or 51 & 52 of the pdf
http://www.promacinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Kubota_Workshop_Manual.pdf
Also use the exploded parts diagram here for you engine/mower which shows the layout
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx
 
Last edited:

Flatiron71

New member

Equipment
F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
0
1
Nampa, ID
Because messing with the injection pump has the potential to damage your engine, I am suggesting you take the pump back to the independent diesel injector and pump place. Perhaps disconnect the throttle linkage at the injection pump and start the engine. If it does not go to full speed your problem may be in the linkage.

This is not the part of your tractor where it is a good place to learn about a diesel. Think of this work as tearing apart a 4 barrel carb plus a distributor advance mechanism. Unless you have very specific knowledge the likelihood of the engine ever running well again is slight.

I would be surprised if your injection pump was unique to Kubota and the shop may recognize it as being made by a supplier company and used by many tractor manufacturers.

You could go to Messicks.com and try and find the injection pump parts for your tractor. Sometimes their illustrations are not much help unless you know what you are looking for.

Go to Kubotabooks.com and try and find a WSM for a tractor with the same engine as you have.

Dave M7040
Thanks Dave_eng - I have no intention on tearing into the injector pump myself. If I do not get any feedback from the forum here that I can try then my plan is to take it to the dealership to have them look at it. I just dont want to do that if i'm missing something simple here that I can address myself. $98/hr adds up fast.
 

Dave_eng

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,239
1,022
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
There is a manual here for a similar engine to yours, meaning same engine but setup for generator use, so governor may be slightly different, but you'll probably get the info you need to ensure the pump rack is connected with the governor as well as governor spring layout. Page M-2 & 3 or 51 & 52 of the pdf
http://www.promacinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Kubota_Workshop_Manual.pdf
Also use the exploded parts diagram here for you engine/mower which shows the layout
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx
I was surprised to find that the Kubota parts site was not accessible to Canadians. I am certain I could find one but.......
 

Dave_eng

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
M7040, Nuffield 465
Oct 6, 2012
5,239
1,022
113
Williamstown Ontario Canada
Thanks Dave_eng - I have no intention on tearing into the injector pump myself. If I do not get any feedback from the forum here that I can try then my plan is to take it to the dealership to have them look at it. I just dont want to do that if i'm missing something simple here that I can address myself. $98/hr adds up fast.
Disconnect the throttle linkage which should be simple to do.

Dave M7040
 

Flatiron71

New member

Equipment
F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
0
1
Nampa, ID
There is a manual here for a similar engine to yours, meaning same engine but setup for generator use, so governor may be slightly different, but you'll probably get the info you need to ensure the pump rack is connected with the governor as well as governor spring layout. Page M-2 & 3 or 51 & 52 of the pdf
http://www.promacinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Kubota_Workshop_Manual.pdf
Also use the exploded parts diagram here for you engine/mower which shows the layout
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx
100_td - I had the WSM for the engine but did not have the parts diagrams. Thanks - that is very helpful.
 

100 td

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B21TLB (B21, TL421 & BT751) Toyota SDK4 T116 Bobcat
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They have one as well IIRC, we have one too now, but ours is limited to what was brought into the country.
 

100 td

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B21TLB (B21, TL421 & BT751) Toyota SDK4 T116 Bobcat
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Check out pages 88/89 for the speed control plate as well
 

Flatiron71

New member

Equipment
F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
0
1
Nampa, ID
Disconnect the throttle linkage which should be simple to do.

Dave M7040
Dave_eng - I've tried that also and it still runs up full throttle. All the reading that i've done on the engine show that the combination of springs in the governor assembly pull the rack towards full throttle all the time in order to assist in startup and then when the rpms pick up enough the governor pushes the whole mechanism the opposite direction to bring it back down to an idle. If I move the stop lever to push against the governor lever assembly it will bring the rpms down just as it would if the governor shaft flyweights were pushing back on it. Thats why i'm thinking the governor shaft may be the problem - like its froze up. Basically the engine responds to back and forth movement of the rack if I do it manually.
 

Flatiron71

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F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
0
1
Nampa, ID
Check out pages 88/89 for the speed control plate as well
Governor levers and springs are setup the same as Fig A on page 89.
- small spring connected on the left correctly on both ends
- large throttle spring connect correctly on both ends
- rack pin is fitted in the governor arm slot same as the picture
 

100 td

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Governor levers and springs are setup the same as Fig A on page 89.
- small spring connected on the left correctly on both ends
- large throttle spring connect correctly on both ends
- rack pin is fitted in the governor arm slot same as the picture
What about the rack pin location as per page 51
 

100 td

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What happens when you operate the speed control lever AGAINST the governor spring, make sure you wind the stops out of the way so you can control it?
 

Flatiron71

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F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
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1
Nampa, ID
What happens when you operate the speed control lever AGAINST the governor spring, make sure you wind the stops out of the way so you can control it?
The speed lever only pulls everything towards full throttle - you have to use the stop lever to push against the governor spring. I would have to disconnect both springs (the small and large you see in the pics) in order to eliminate the rack from being pulled to full throttle at all times. I've used the stop lever to push against the springs and the rpms will come down according to the amount that I move it.
 

100 td

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Ok, is the governor arm moving at all or is it sitting in the same place at full revs? The governor should move from max travel, (meaning fuel fully open) to max rpm set point (governed fuel). Meaning, is it governing at max revs?
 

Flatiron71

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F2680
Sep 7, 2017
21
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Nampa, ID
Ok, is the governor arm moving at all or is it sitting in the same place at full revs? The governor should move from max travel, (meaning fuel fully open) to max rpm set point (governed fuel). Meaning, is it governing at max revs?
That I don't know for sure as far as while its running. With the plate removed and engine shut down I can move the levers back and forth to both stops freely. Would it be ok for me to run the engine with the throttle plate removed so that I can see it??
 

100 td

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Just went and had a look at mine, was thinking of pulling it, but then saw my idle apparatus which reminded me, has yours been played with, is the spring broken or missing after pulling the pump?
I haven't pulled one but I wonder if it can fall when the pump is pulled. Have a look through the manual for info on it.
 

coachgeo

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check your oil. If you have a head cracked or blown gasket you may be slightly ingesting your own lube oil thus no throttle control.

Search how to stop a runaway just in case I'm right and it gets worse and wants to run away from you.