I am an idiot - Fuel Tank Removal Issues - L35

[Arkansas]

I had the bright idea to buy a Kubota L35 (1000 hrs) with some significant blow by which I am guessing means it needs new rings and seals...at least that is what I have learned from the dealership who has serviced it and the internet.

Before I trick you into thinking I actually know what I am talking about, let me assure you I am a novice. While I consider myself fairly decent at DIY projects, this is my first foray into rebuilding an engine. In short, I'm an idiot for attempting this but you only live once. I want to better understand engines so here I am giving this a go.

So far, things have gone moderately well. I'm following a shop manual and I have meticulously marked things as I have gone along. I have taken notes and organized everything I have removed. I had absolutely no idea how long it would take me to learn along the way. My wife now hates me and my kids are asking for a new dad.

So here I am trying to make some significant progress this Labor Day weekend and I am absolutely stumped trying to remove the fuel tank.

I have removed everything except the tank and the metal bonnet that pins it. I can't figure out how to get to the four bolts at the base of the bonnet frame.

A - I need to remove the fuel tank so I can access the bolts at the base of the bonnet. Problem - the fuel tank is pinned in by its flange and I cannot figure out how to remove the actual tank with the bonnet still in place. The tank basically sits right on top of those four bolts.

B - There is some way to get to those bolts with the fuel tank in place and I can then lift the tank and bonnet frame out at the same time once I back out those four bolts. Problem - I was able to get to two of the four bolts (the two closest to the front of the tractor) but the bolts closest to the rear of the tractor are a total enigma...I absolutely cannot figure out how to get to those.

C - I pull out my sawzall, drop in a metal blade and shear the bolts. Yes that is a joke but don't think it didn't cross my mind.


Wise ones of the OrangeTractorTalks please help me. I will name my next child after whomever helps me solve this. And feel free to call me names and make fun of me...it will just make me feel at home.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The bolts that hold the fuel tank in place are accessed from behind the dash panel and below.

 

[Creature Meadow]

I cannot help you but many here have much knowledge and will help guide you through the process.

 

[Arkansas]

The bolts that hold the fuel tank in place are accessed from behind the dash panel and below.

Thanks Wolfman. I'll give this another look. I have thought of this and I have tried to find a way to get to them from/through the dash panel. I just couldn't find a way. Perhaps there is something I can take off that I haven't considered but I haven't been able to find a way through it to access the rear bolts.

I'll give this another try. If you have anything else you can add I'd love to hear it.

I do appreciate the response. Thanks again.

 

[D2Cat]

Might have to remove the steering wheel, then the dash...then you get to the bolts.

 

[jryser]

Can't wait to meet your son - wolfman!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Arkansas]

Can't wait to meet your son - wolfman!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'Wolfman Henry' has a ring to it...sure hope it's a boy.

 

[Arkansas]

Might have to remove the steering wheel, then the dash...then you get to the bolts.

I've got the dash and all the plastic removed for the steering column. At this point, I think all of that is as torn down as possible but I will look again tomorrow. I still have been unable to find a way through to get to those back bolts but I guess I missed it. I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back.

 

[Arkansas]

"Wolfman Henry" it is!

I didn't realize I had to remove the whole steering console. I finally got the whole steering console shifted and was able to access the bolts. I actually got the fuel tank out last night...it was certainly hard fought with many hours wasted. I appreciate the support here.

Now on to the fun part of actually removing the engine...

 

[jryser]

Keep us posted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Arkansas]

Keep us posted!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will do. My goal is to actually remove the engine this week.

According to my shop manual...

Front axle frame:
1. Place disassembly stand under the front bumper and hoist the engine.
2. Remove the front axle frame mounting screws and nuts
3. Remove the reamer stud bolts
4. Separate the front axle frame from engine


Separating Engine
1. Place disassembly stands under the clutch housing and hoist the engine.
2. Remove the engine mounting screws and nuts
3. Separate the engine from clutch housing


The pictures are disappointing...basically showing a suspended engine and nothing regarding which bolts...how to position the stands..etc. I don't really understand these steps but I am hoping I can feel my way through it.

If anyone can offer any guidance on these steps I'd love to hear it.

 

[Arkansas]

Ok, I'm at the point of pulling the engine. All jack stands, floor jacks, cribbing, etc are in place. Unfortunately the shop manual, for a novice like me, is a little vague on exactly which bolts I need to back out in order to free the engine. Here is what my shop manual says...

When it comes to the front axle (I am stuck at this step) I am trying to figure out exactly which screws/bolts step 2 and 3 are talking about. See pictures.

Front axle frame:
1. Place disassembly stand under the front bumper and hoist the engine.
2. Remove the front axle frame mounting screws and nuts
3. Remove the reamer stud bolts
4. Separate the front axle frame from engine


Separating Engine
1. Place disassembly stands under the clutch housing and hoist the engine.
2. Remove the engine mounting screws and nuts
3. Separate the engine from clutch housing

Picture 3593:
This is a 'passenger side' picture of the tractor

#1 is a screw that is holding a hose guide of some kind. I don't know if this screw also goes into the engine or not. Can anyone speak to this? Should it be removed?

#2 - On both sides of the engine there are studs that stick out (I have removed the nuts and lock washers). I have felt on the back side to see if I can tap out the screw but it doesn't look that way. Does anyone know how to handle these studs sticking out and whether or not they even play a part in the front of the tractor mounting to the engine? If they don't, I can put the nuts/washers back on.

Picture 3584:
Are these the four bolts holding the rear of the tractor to the engine?

Picture 3595:
This is a picture from the 'driver side' of the tractor - you will see the same stud popping out as on the other side.

I appreciate anyone's help. I'm really close to pulling this engine...will be a huge milestone!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes the hose bracket bolt is a frame bolt too.

I'm pretty sure you will need to remove the loader mount in order to get to all the motor bolts, and yes the loader mount bolts probably do extend into the motor.

 

[Arkansas]

Yes the hose bracket bolt is a frame bolt too.

I'm pretty sure you will need to remove the loader mount in order to get to all the motor bolts, and yes the loader mount bolts probably do extend into the motor.

Thanks Wolfman...I'll give it another go tonight and see what happens.

 

[Arkansas]

Hey guys, could use some more advice.

If you will notice the pictures of the frame bolts on this thread

- I have hoisted the engine
- Stud bolts are removed
- Front frame bolts are all removed
- Removed the rear frame bolts (the four bolts inside the orange paint)
- There were two bolts on the engine that looked like it was helping hold it against the clutch housing - I have removed those too

I cannot get the front of the tractor to separate from the engine. I have it supposed on a wheeled jack. I have disconnected everything that I know. I had multiple guys tugging on the front last night and it will not come free from the engine. Obviously I need to slide the front of the tractor free so I can then slide the engine forward off the clutch and then lift it out.

After removing the studs, the front remaining six bolts, the rear eight bolts (ones in orange), and two bolts on top of the clutch housing that looked like it was holding it to the engine block, I have done all I can see to do.

Any advice? Anyone know what I am missing?